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Another forgotten area containing George Owens routes from the 60s, plus a couple more recent, but no less obscure.

© (willmonks)

Access issues

First find the ancient, poorly-described access, then find the climbs!!

© (willmonks)


The access description in the 1995 Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains is pretty woeful: "Follow Pulpit Hill Rd for a few hundred metres, turn left onto track. At the barrier take fire trail on right, next left, left again until fire trail ends. Follow track for 30 sec, a tiny cairn marks path leading left. Down gully between wall and huge boulder, short scramble to arete."

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


View historical timeline

Most routes listed from 1968-70.

© (willmonks)


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

This topo is to stimulate imagination and discussion rather than guide anyone up anything.

Topo created based on some sketchy 'knowledge' from some old timers. Treat with great suspicion.

"Old aid route." [That's all in the 1995 Guidebook - Ed.]

Start: From rap point 10m right of On Any Sunny Day facing out. Rap 50m to DBB on arete.

  1. (25m) 23 Wall and arete to break below bulge. Up left then up to jugs to join "Boiling Tide". Up and right via old BRs to arete to DBB.

  2. (25m) 21 Mantle below arete, to ledge, bulge, arete and wall.

FA: M. Wilson & C. Hale, 1995

Topo notional - route not confirmed. [But if I was looking for a 100m arete, I imagine it would be here - Ed.]

Start: Rap 40m, 30m (chains), 35m (tree) to DBB.

  1. (35m) 20 Slabby arete.

  2. (25m) 22 Wall, left to arete, up to ledge, right and up to chain.

  3. (40m) 21 Wall and arete.

FA: C. Hale & M. Wilson, 1994

Topo entirely imaginary - route not confirmed.

#Historical Description from Bryden Allen's 1963 guide.

"Climbed on the SRC's 9th anniversary.

Start: On opposite side of Nellies Glen to Burgundy Buttress. From Nellies Glen track to left around foot of cliff face to first obvious buttress through thick scrub.

Details forgotten. Lower parts very scrubby but upper pitches provide some interesting problems."

FA: R. Kippax & P. Hardie, 1960

Chimney, gully and crack.

FA: G. Owens, 1968

Start: 1m left of EG. Arete.

FA: B. Crouch, 1969

Start: 7m left of EG.

Black wall, gully, blocks, wall and gully. Bad pro,

FA: H. Bevan, 1969

Start: 7m left of TEF.

Wall and overhang.

FA: K. Bell, 1969

Start: 3m left of TO.

Wall trending left to ledge then overhang.

FA: C. Monteath,

Start: 10m left of SA.

Crack and nose.

FA: G. Owens, 1968

Start: 20m left of FA.

Chimney, corner and crack.

FA: G. Owens, 1968

Start: 3m left of CC.

Corner, wall and corner.

FA: G. Owens, 1968

Start: 83m left of TCB.

Corner, wall, arete, blocks, bulge and wall.

FA: K. Bell, 1969


Check out what is happening in Nellies Glen.