A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Nellies Glen / Pulpit Hill 4 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Nellies Glen 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -33.710103, 150.286260
description
Another forgotten area containing George Owens routes from the 60s, plus a couple more recent, but no less obscure.
access issues
First find the ancient, poorly-described access, then find the climbs!!
approach
The access description in the 1995 Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains is pretty woeful: "Follow Pulpit Hill Rd for a few hundred metres, turn left onto track. At the barrier take fire trail on right, next left, left again until fire trail ends. Follow track for 30 sec, a tiny cairn marks path leading left. Down gully between wall and huge boulder, short scramble to arete."
ethic
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
history
Most routes listed from 1968-70.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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This topo is to stimulate imagination and discussion rather than guide anyone up anything. | ||||||||
| 2 |
Boiling Tide
Topo created based on some sketchy 'knowledge' from some old timers. Treat with great suspicion. "Old aid route." [That's all in the 1995 Guidebook - Ed.] | |||||||
| 3 |
High Tide
Start: From rap point 10m right of On Any Sunny Day facing out. Rap 50m to DBB on arete.
FA: M. Wilson & C. Hale, 1995 | 23 | 50m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
On Any Sunny Day
Topo notional - route not confirmed. [But if I was looking for a 100m arete, I imagine it would be here - Ed.] Start: Rap 40m, 30m (chains), 35m (tree) to DBB.
FA: C. Hale & M. Wilson, 1994 | 22 | 100m, 3 | |||||
| 5 |
Anniversary Buttress
Topo entirely imaginary - route not confirmed. #Historical Description from Bryden Allen's 1963 guide. "Climbed on the SRC's 9th anniversary. Start: On opposite side of Nellies Glen to Burgundy Buttress. From Nellies Glen track to left around foot of cliff face to first obvious buttress through thick scrub. Details forgotten. Lower parts very scrubby but upper pitches provide some interesting problems." FA: R. Kippax & P. Hardie, 1960 | |||||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 22 | On Any Sunny Day | 100m, 3 | |||
| 23 | High Tide | 50m, 2 | |||
| ? | Anniversary Buttress | ||||
| Boiling Tide |