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From the Pierces Pass Lower Carpark, head down the Pierces Pass walking track, looking for the Yileen canyon exit track (on the right) when approximately below The Colours of Spring. Head down the Canyon Exit Track, across the creek, and back up the other side (passing below Wrath of Delilah, Samson Gets a #1 and Kryptonite Crack), and below the cliffline (past Bladderhozen, Church of the Seven Samurai and The Iron Throne) to the bottom of Yileen Canyon.

Bush bash through dense wall-of-tree in a westerly direction below the cliffline (staying high-ish) for 100m to another slot canyon (this is the abseil descent from the climbs beyond this point), and for another 100m to Mrs Mac's Crack (the first of the obvious, overgrown corner-cracks, in grey rock). 15m further along, down a slight scramble is the direct, vegetated grovel start to Tientel (look for several carrots directly above, this is Kiss and Tell (22), which shares the same start).

Better than Ben Hur is another 100m further along the base of the cliff (and up a vegetated, loose gully).

P1 12m (15) - Up dirty, vegetated, barely protected corner to groove/chimney. Up this until it ends, then left along vegetated/loose ledge to belay below the main corner.

P2 45m (20) - Up loose blocks and vegetation, to overgrown, dirty corner. Carefully up this to a nice-looking clean corner at 35m height. Layback up clean corner, then continue up to a stance on a small, vegetated ledge below loose corner above (average gear on this belay).

P3 45m (20) - Up past shale-band and through roof to vegetated corner. Okay climbing up corner past 2 bulges. Belay on rubble-strewn ledge (fixed hex), 10m below big shale roof.

P4 45m (21) - Up corner to disgusting shale ledge and shale roof. Carefully get a #5 cam (or #4 higher up) into the wide shale-crack in the roof. Through roof with much trepidation (being careful not to kill your belayer), then more enjoyable steep corner-crack climbing to huge shale/dirt ledge.

P5 35m (21) - Up tricky, vegetated stemming corner to stance below roof. Chimney through roof, and up dirty, mossy, vegetated corner above to shale-mantle next to a small cave (#2 & #3 cams out right to belay).

P6 25m (12) - Dangerously up completely overgrown and underprotected corner. Up wide crack. Up ironstone plates to belay well-back on small trees.

To escape, walk east down the steepening hill and into the overgrown canyon. CAREFULLY down the steep canyon (through a wall of shrubs/trees) aiming for a tree with multiple slings around it at the canyon drop-off. A full 60m abseil will JUST make it to the ground, or a 40m abseil (to carrots + carabiners on the RIGHT side of the canyon), and another 20m abseil to the ground.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.57264, 150.32998

Grade citation

21 R Assigned grade

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 8 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 1

Comment keywords

good great cool nice pleasant layback bad chimney lip shady vertical chossy crack traverse roof steep exposed scary unprotected

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Wed 29 Mar
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