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Description

Shaded grey wall across Centennial Creek and on a small ledge above the track. For Chook Lotto, Done Roamin' and Chook Raffle stay on the track until just before it turns the corner.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Even better than Vanity Case? Fantastic sustained fingery climbing. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to ledge then the R line.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1993

Blasts straight up the awesome wall, albeit a bit squeezily between Vanity Case and Self Portrait, then continues up the dirty vertical headwall a long way to the top. Treat the grade with suspicion; the prolific cobwebs don't suggest a popular soft tick. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to the ledge, then the middle line off the ledge.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock. Start on the high ledge about 20m right of Chook Raffle. Access by climbing up near the creek. 4 bolts to ledge then the lefthand line.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

Apparently very good - "if you have the nerves." The traverse bolts have been re-positioned, but the next few are still hard to clip. The top is still a little run out... unless you take a cam. Start off the same ledge as Vanity Case but traverse leftwards for 10m off the ledge, then up. Put extenders/rollers on bolts 3-6. Has a direct start which is still a closed project.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

Desperate arete hugging. Start a few metres right of Chook Lotto.

FA: Greg Child, Mike Law & John Smoothy, 1992

Apparently ok, but rarely done. Start right of Chook Lotto, off the same boulder.

FA: The first ascent was led on sight with skyhooks, teeth, little bolts that fell out on a bitterly cold day in June. Mark Radke, Jane Cooksey & Mike Law., 1988

A neat sport route, with really enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred only by an ugly and desperate little move at the start. Used to have loose bolts but these have been fixed (as at 2014). Start in the obvious corner off the track about 40m past the creek.

FA: John Smoothy, 1992

Activity

Check out what is happening in Self Portrait Wall.