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Start 5m right of Bloody Mary RHS (marked) below triangular prowed ledge at 4m. Fixed rope may be present, bounce test before use; if not then lasso or stick-sling the very tip of prow and ascend rope then mantle onto ledge and good gear. Climbing starts here.

  1. Head up and right following slanting invert thin crack to lip of roof and rest. Upper corner is very thin crack and a few decent holds. Stemming and a few face holds help. Exit left at top. Tree belay.

Standard rack plus extra small cams.

Top corner is a bit dirty and mossy but should clean up a bit.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent:

    First free attempt Macciza 2015.

  • First Ascent: Ewbank, 1967


Located in Rhum Dhu approx:
Lat/Long: -33.717750,150.287532

Route Grade Citations

15 M5 Community registered grade
15M5 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
~22?? Macciza a.k.a. Macca

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux great rest

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Check out what is happening on Tia Maria (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.