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description

BEWARE the left anchor bolt is slightly loose, and the shackle on the same bolt is sharp. The log is also no longer attached to the wall.

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains. A hold snapped late 2015 making the moves past the 2nd last bolt a little harder, but doesn't change the grade.

© (secretary)

Route history

1986First ascent: C. Peisker & T. Williams

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.63896, 150.27102

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 Assigned grade
25(S) Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25(S) Blue Mountains Climbing
25 *** ACA Route Register
25M1 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
25,M1 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
26 [26 - 26] ++ grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Overall quality 84 from 182 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 6
Flash 2
Red point 68
Tick 47
Pink point 26
Attempt 155
Target 4

Comment keywords

fingers undercling traverse rest slippery jugs feet vertical crazy easy slabby interesting cruisy crimpy smooth hands fall tricky committing good amazing rad nice brilliant great cool stoked sweet classic awesome fun fantastic enjoyable pleasant superb super difficult tired overhung struggle solid hard pumped desperate challenging tough crux sustained powerful dyno

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