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Sublime Point

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Description

Sublime Point is a large 200m high west facing two tiered cliff perched on the end of a finger of rock south of 'Leura'. Most people visit to climb the popular easy multi-pitch 'Sweet Dreams' (14), but there is plenty of other interesting routes in the area, from old school vegetated girdles to bolted single pitch sport routes. Many of the older routes haven't had a great deal of recent traffic so take care - and bring the pruning shears. It's easy to polish off a few single pitch routes on the walk-in to doing 'Sweet Dreams' or any of the other multi-pitch routes. There are even some fifty year old aid routes begging for a free ascent.

If adventure climbing isn't your thing then consider Bentrovarto Wall, a very impressive 90m high slightly overhung orange face that contains several sustained routes up to three pitches long. The recent rush of new sport routes on Bentrovarto Wall, and further right in the 'Thumbs Up' area and beyond, have made the right side of the 'Sublime Point' 'Main Area' a good quality walk-in, walk-out crag. Unless you're a latte sipping softy, the walk out is not that bad when you're only carrying a sport rack!

If it's hot and you're chasing shade, the 'Main Area' has shade until about noon, the 'Cool Wall' has shade pretty much all day, and last you can head to the 'East Face' which is shady from about noon. If it's cold and you want to be in the sun, hit the 'East Face' early and the 'Main Area' in the afternoon.

© (Stu)

Access issues

All 'Sublime Point' crags are in a National Park - DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED. Please do not further endanger climbing access and damage climbers' relationships with the land managers - don't bring your dog to these crags.

There is also no public toilet at the carpark - try and go in advance - the nearest public toilet is in Leura Mall. The base of the crag is a narrow ledge system h so digging a hole isn't really an option.

Rubbish pick-up update: 10th March 2019 - There's about 60-100 pieces of rubbish, such as plastic bottles, below the eastern side of the tourist lookout walk-in footpath area. (So, this is the left-hand turn you can take instead of the right-hand turn you take to walk down to the main climbing areas)

© (Stu)

Approach

This area is 13km closer to Sydney than the more popular Bluies crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. 'Access' for each sub-area is described on the respective pages (links below).

© (Stu)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

View historical timeline

Sublime Point was opened up to climbing by the Rhum Du Climbing Group in 1958 with climbs created at irregular intervals for a couple of years. The cliff then lay dormant, forgotten and wasted for several years, until a burst of energy by the S.R.C. between '62 & '65. (J.E. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, '67.)

© (Stu)

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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