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Routes in West Face (Main Area) for selected grade

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Showing all 7 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
26 R Thumbs Out

The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began.

Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint).

Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top...

Trad 23m
26 The Kangaroolity of Women

"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds)

Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean.

Sport 15m, 11
Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
26 Kizmastication (linkup)

Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Sport 27m, 13
26 Sadomastication

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

  1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

  2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

  3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.

Set: Heath Black

FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Paul Frothy Thomson, 2012

Sport 67m, 3
26 Poggio

Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route.

Set: Megan Turnbull, 7 May 2016

Sport 25m
26 Stevia (Linkup)

Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio.

Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish.

Sport 25m
26 The Road Not Taken

Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible.

FA: Paul Thomson, 5 Nov 2014

Sport 18m, 8

Showing all 7 routes.

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