Showing all 7 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | |||||
26 R | ★★ Thumbs Out
The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began. Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint). Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top... FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2012 FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler, Stephen Varney & Jared Anderson, 26 Jan 2021 | 23m | |||
26 | ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women
"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds) Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean. FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Matt King, Will Vidler, Heath Black, David Dearnley & Gavin, 1 Jun 2022 | 15m, 11 | |||
Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Kizmastication (linkup)
Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 27m, 13 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sadomastication
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!
Set: Heath Black FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Paul Frothy Thomson, 2012 | 67m, 3 | |||
26 | Poggio
Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route. Set: Megan Turnbull, 7 May 2016 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Stevia (Linkup)
Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio. Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish. | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ The Road Not Taken
Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible. FA: Paul Thomson, 5 Nov 2014 | 18m, 8 |
Showing all 7 routes.