Showing all 11 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
East Faces Subliminal Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Unconscious Corner
Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Gene, 2 Jan 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector | |||||
20 | ★★ Choc Chip Chai
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Culhane, 2009 | 15m, 7 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | |||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity
Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2009 | 22m, 9 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | |||||
20 | ★ Torrential
Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Starts 6m left of Flash Flood. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to topout onto shale ledge and single ubolt + trad belay. Long draws useful to avoid rope drag. FA: Rich Sonnerdale & Neil Monteith, 2010 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Rock Snob
Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 Set: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 12m, 4 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Ben Trovato
1
20
20m
2
8
27m
3
14
13m
4
31m
5
16m
6
33m
7
13m
"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier. The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.
FA: Bryden Allen † & P Messenbergh, 1964 | 150m, 7, 3 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | |||||
20 | ★ Hyperglycemic Hallucination
Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.
Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds. FA: Dave Hughes & Al Bradley, 22 Feb 2018 | 60m, 2, 18 | |||
20 | ★ Dreams Are Free
Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'. | 25m, 2 | |||
20 | Jude Food
Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB. Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free. | 25m, 3 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Northern Walls | |||||
20 | ★ World of Wander
1
19
35m
2
18
30m
3
20
25m
4
17
15m
Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes (300m) left of Whymper. After you drop down into a 3rd red shale cave, the route starts 30m further on, at the base of an undercut buttress, marked by a cairn. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).
Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark. FA: Eugene Mak, Jeff Crass & Mikl Law, 2021 | 110m, 4 | |||
West Face (Main Area) Lower Cliff Subjacent | |||||
20 | ★★ Gormenghast
Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring cams between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a 0.75 green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014. FA: Greg Child & Chris Piesker, 1976 FFA: Heath Black, 2014 | 28m, 4 |
Showing all 11 routes.