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Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Overall the cliffs have seen very little affect from the bushfires. However, the approach has been heavily burned out and care needs to be taken when walking in.

The track down from the carpark is marked with small cairns and pink tape. At the base of the hill cross the bog/marsh via the log bridge and follow the path up to the road.

Please only descend to the cliffs via the Memory Lane walkdown gully as the first gully is extremely loose and at high risk of erosion.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 weeks ago - Edited 5 weeks ago

Description

"The climb boasts a complicated history of aid elimination. On the first ascent two rests were used on the section above the horizontal break, one under the roof and one on the flake above. The stoic leader then bolted up the final short headwall in driving rain to the top. Though he did the climb in one pitch he went to the trouble of establishing a hanging belay station below the bolt ladder. This was done for the benefit of future parties who might attempt a free ascent using the belay as a much needed rest. Mike Law made the second ascent and managed to lead the first pitch completely free but left the grade at 23. A month or so later Warwick Baird did a free ascent of the whole climb though he did break the route into 2 pitches. A few weeks later he made an attempt to lead the climb completely free in one pitch but fell 4m from the top when a hold broke. The following weekend he returned again and finally managed the task that had eluded him on previous attempts. "The climb now stands as the hardest and most sustained lead in the Blue Mountains" (May 1981) Mark baker added the direct bit over the flake.

Start: Incipient crack right of K&Q.

© (mjw)

Route history

First Free Ascent: W.Baird
1981First Ascent: G.Bradbury

Warnings

17 May 2020 Warning Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Location

Lat/Long: -33.49920, 150.22822

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 Assigned grade
25 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Cosmic County
25 R *** ACA Route Register
25 Blue Mountains Climbing
25 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 94% from 3 ratings

Tick Types

Attempt 4

Comment keywords

roof rest great

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