The Egg Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. The Egg 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.708769, 150.266477

description

Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind, which makes it one of the most spooge-resistant crags in summer. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.

Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.

© (mjw)

access issues

Most of this area is no longer private property as it was purchased by the NSW State Government in late 2019. A new Plan of Management is being drawn up (2020) with a focus on the area being a regional park, managed by National Parks. The Nest is the only known developed climbing area still on private property.

inherited from Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau

approach

Park at the end of Pulpit Hill Road. Walk through the gates and keep following the main track for 15-20min. Don’t turn right at any of the forks. 150m after a 90 degrees bent you should find a track marked by a cairn or two.

The track is well trodden (but overgrows quickly, please bring secaturs) and heads straight downhill for 5 minutes, down some rock steps, then turn left and go 50m to the base of the crag.

© (mjw)

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Ike the Butcher The first route as you arrive.. If you like steep and thuggy then this is your number. Be careful on the first couple of bolts as the ground isn't far away. FA: lloyd wishart, 2006	26	Sport 15m, 7
2		★★ Funky Monkey Easily the easiest route here. The warm up... if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee. FA: C.Coghill, 2003	24	Sport 14m, 8
3		★★ Glow Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy? A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun. FA: M.Warren	26	Sport 18m, 9
4		★★ Afterglow / Glow Glow true! The long-awaited direct start to the "Funky Monkey Glow Linkup". A tough boulder problem to gain the pockets, grade needs confirming. FA: David Barrie, 2024	27	Sport 18m, 7
5		★★ Headshot Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is? FA: M.Warren	27	Sport 17m, 7
6		★★ Red Demon The warm up if you aren't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing! FA: C.Coghill, 2004	24	Sport 14m
7		★★ Five Point Exploding Heart Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish. FA: L.Cossey	28	Sport 20m
8		★★ The Deal with Space Like a Cornetto... no boring parts! A great climb if you like mountains pockets and the hardest of the 4s at this crag. At least 2 grades harder than Funky! FA: D Smith	24	Sport 15m
9		★★ The Floating Line (homage to an angel) The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick? Set: Chris Coghill FA: T.Wolf, 2007	28	Sport 22m, 7
10		★★ Tornado Same start as the last two climbs but keeps drifting right to anchors on the arête. Sent as horizontal hail arrived. FA: C. Coghill, 2005	24	Sport 20m
11		Project Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof. A hold broke several years ago, this climb should probably be removed.. FA: L. Cossey, 2000		Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
24		★★	Funky Monkey	Sport 14m, 8
		★★	Red Demon	Sport 14m
		★★	The Deal with Space	Sport 15m
		★★	Tornado	Sport 20m
26		★★	Glow	Sport 18m, 9
		★★	Ike the Butcher	Sport 15m, 7
27		★★	Afterglow	Sport 18m, 7
		★★	Headshot	Sport 17m, 7
28		★★	Five Point Exploding Heart	Sport 20m
		★★	The Floating Line (homage to an angel)	Sport 22m, 7
?			Project	Sport