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Description

The small buttress between Square Gully and Jacks Crack

Approach

*Warning - The tracks marked in the ACT guide have changed following the bushfires.

From the top campsite, follow the track left (west). The track splits on a few occasions but trend right, keeping the high point on your right and follow the track down a wide gully with obvious water washouts. Chossy boulders will be close on your right. The track will wrap back around the cliff line with 'Integral Crack' giving it away that you're on the right path.

From here, continue along the base of the cliff for 30m or so until a large, dark gully cuts the cliff. This is Square Gully

Descent notes

If you don't want to walk off, there are rap stations at the top of the following climbs:

  • Modern Times - 30m. Serves Square Gully through to Animal Magnetism
  • Jack's Crack - 30m. Serves Jack's Crack through to 'Lazaro's Staircase', with a short down-scramble

Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

A 'horrible subterranean grovel suitable only for troglodytes and masochists'. Scramble up the bed of the gully until confronted by a chimney.

  1. 10m - Squirm up the chimney and over chockstones to a ledge (DBB).

  2. 20m - Scramble up the gully until it again becomes a chimney. Ascend the chimney and belay in the "bowels of the earth" six metres back.

  3. 20m - Move out left above the chockstones and scramble for 12 metres up the gully or ridge on the right. 3a. 15m - Variant finish. From "the bowels of the earth" chimney up and exit by a small hole in the roof.

FA: Gordon Horrocks, Tony Wood & A Wadsley, 1967

Quite good, complete with overhead protection and escape jugs. This is the ramp/corner at the extreme right-hand end of the left wall.

FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1983

Quite good if you like loose blocks and slapstick humour. Start at the corner two metres left of Gentlemen of Nerve. Up the corner then right through the blocky overhang to the top.

FA: Matk Colyvan & Tim Chapman, 1983

Nice wall climbing. Start one metre left of Cruel, Cruel Love. Up the wall past four bolts to the left hand end of the roof, then step left around the arete and make some easier moves up to the top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Tim Chapman, 1983

Up wall past four bolts as for Modern Times to overlap / roof. Clip a bolt on the lip then blast up the headwall on jugs. Double rings to belay and rap.

FA: Damian Javanovic, Feb 2010

Start as for Modern Times, at the edge of the boulder above the belay. Clip the first bolt on Modern Times. Step left past a second bolt, then up the vague open-book corner past some gear. Up the blunt arete past another bolt then more easily to the top.

FA: Oliver Story & Damian Javanovic, Feb 2010

Start at the dark hole at the edge of the ledge halfway up Square Gully. Crank out left along the jugs and slip, slide and heel hook up the crack.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Richard Watts, 1983

A bit loose and poorly protected. Start below the small corner midway along the left wall of Square Gully. Up the thin corner to an easy crack on the front of the buttress. Follow this to a big ledge, then scramble off.

FA: Ray Lassman & John Smart, 1977

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the left (North) side. Up the very-open book corner past 4 bolts, staying out of the darker rock of Jack of Diamonds. Pull over onto easier ground and up right to belay as for Peter Pan. Gear required above the fourth bolt. 30m rap into gully from a flat-topped boulder near the head of the gully.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, Feb 2010

A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.

  1. 11m - Climb the crack to a ledge next to a large block leaning against the face.

  2. 37m - Up to the top of the block (large sling) and step onto the face - awkward for shorties - climb up for a few moves and then right to a thin crack. Up this to the top and what was a tree belay but now requires a topout.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966

A "worthless and contrived girdle which follows the line of least resistance off the ground". Starts up Peter Pan and traverses the South Buttress from right to left finishing up Matrix. Apparently ties a lot of good stuff together.

FA: Bob Watt & John Hoskins, 1970

A reachy little boulder problem on sharp holds. Start four metres left of and down from Peter Pan. Boulder up to and past the bolt to a thin crack. Up this and cruise to the top via Peter Pan or Confessions of a Stripper.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

Nice moves but contrived. Start from the first belay of Peter Pan under a faint corner and a bolt. Up to the bolt, make a move right, then straight up to a horizontal break. Straight up the steep slab from here (keep out of Peter Pan!), stopping once more to place some protection. A good alternative is to move left into Purple Haze at the break.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

See description above.

The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.

  1. 18m - Climb the left crack to the large ledge on the left.

  2. 12m - Move left across the ledge between the face and the large detached block and climb down the other side to the bottom of Jack's Crack.

FA: Jack O'Halloran & Peter Aitchison, 1966

Only a couple of hard moves, but they make the climb worthwhile. Gary Scott did the first section in 1977 but avoided the crux by traversing into Peter Pan along the horizontal break. Start midway along Rise and Fall where a small odd-shaped pinnacle allows access right onto the arete. Step off the pinnacle onto jugs and move right around the arete into a dyke-crack system. Up this and the wall above to the cracks at the top of Peter Pan.

FA: Peter Mills & Mick Lithgow, 1978

Well protected and reasonably steep. Start just right of the big block and small spike at the top of Rise and Fall. Climb up the wall (without using the spike) past two bolts. Up the ramp to a third bolt, then move left slightly and up to some runners. Continue up the steep wall on good holds past another bolt, pull onto the slab and wander up to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Peck & Bill Begg, 1986

The following four climbs are on the broken wall and blocks below 'Rise and Fall'.

Believed to have been done in the dark ages, but no one wrote it up. Start left of Rise and Fall at a poxy looking wall below and slightly right of a bush. Climb the wall, then the flake just right of the bush. Belay at the Purple Haze pinnacle.

FA: Geoff Kennett & Dak Coutts, 1982

Looks gross. Start at the off-width left of Rise and Fall. Up this and the shallow groove above the small roof.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1983

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Richard Watts, 1983

The poxy crack and chimney two metres left of Nirvana.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1983

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

FA: Simon Carter, 1990

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Mike Peck, 1988

FFA: Gordon "Goldfinger" Poultney, 1988

Worryingly loose. Marked start halfway up Jack's Crack. Follow the ramps up and right, eventually passing a bolt on Static Cling, then traverse back left to a ledge and step right past a balanced flake. Stop worrying, then go straight to the top.

FA: Peter Mills & Phil Cullen, 1978

So named because of Crushed's penchant for kangaroos (and vice versa). The obvious line left of Surface to Air; protection is dubious in places. Start as for Surface to Air. Climb Jack's Crack for a few moves until able to step back right into the line. Up this, with hard moves at the start, to a thin crack below a sloping ledge and onto the final ramp.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Karl Seeuwen, 1982

Activity

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