Central Slabs Mostly Trad climbing 36 routes in sector

A reasonable slab route wandering up a weakness on the right side of 'The Central Slabs'. Begin at the prominent leftwards diagonal a few metres left of the 'Place Without a Postcard' flake.

1. 40m (19) - Follow the diagonal crack to a scooped recess four metres left of the water streak ('Nothing Left'). Climb the short wall above and pull onto a small ledge below an incipient corner. Traverse well right to a big ledge and DBB as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 35m (19) - Back left along the ledge for a few metres and up the slab (four metres right of the water streak) for five metres to a curving seam and runner. Step down and move left and diagonally up across the water streak. More easily up then left along weaknesses to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Finish up 'Closer In' or 'Outer Limit'.

Contrived in places and somewhat overtaken by 'Nothing Left', nevertheless a great climb wandering around the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

1. 30m (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. DBB on the right as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 30m (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to DBB on the 'Prow'.

3. 30m (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to DBB on a large flat ledge.

4. 20m (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and DBB. Finish as you will.

Excellent mostly-bolted crimping and slabbing blasting directly up the water streak, topped off with a sporty top pitch. Take wires and small cams (up to 2.5).

1. 47m (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal left for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

2. 50m (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing') to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge with double bolt belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt use the first belay.

3. 38m (21) - Off block right of the high rap anchor and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past two bolts to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to double bolt belay on top.

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts on Nothing Left P2. The climbing starts on the vertical wall to the right. Interesting knobs and layaways up the wall past about seven bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts. A rap anchor here lets you lower off and do another route; otherwise head right and continue easily to top.

Another extreme and superb climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'. Up the crack to a tiny ledge, then slightly right through a slippery bowl (look closely for RP slots). Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', mantle, reachy bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the RP protected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Three sets of RPs isn’t overkill.

A very good multi-pitch slab. Pull on the first bolt to drop two grades. Start at a short ramp one metre left of 'Chanel 19'. The route has more, and better, bolts than in 1982 (thanks Mike!).

1. 30m (24 / 22A0) - Up the short, steepening ramp to a bolt, pull the crux, then straight up to a bulging overlap. Onwards and upwards, trending slightly right to a diagonal break. Left along this to a double bolt belay. 4 bolts. Combining with the second pitch is recommended (~50 metres - use double ropes).

2. 30m (22) - Move diagonally left along the weakness for a few moves, then up the wall. Continue straight up to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. 4 bolts.

3. • a) 40m (20) - Step up into a small recess behind the belay, clip a bolt then move diagonally right up the slab. Continue trending right past two bolts to a slight ramp, step back left and pull up onto a stance at the base of an easy corner. Up this, step right to a bolt, then right to a ledge and double bolt belay (shared with 'Nothing Left' P2). Belay here to continue up 'Take it All'. For the original route continue up right to belay at the base of the right-hand headwall.
   • b) 50m (20) Start as for option A, but from the top of the easy corner trend up left past two bolts, then rightwards and up cracks to DBB at the base of the last pitch of 'Nothing Left'. Finish up this.

4. 35m (22) - A later addition. An exciting lead up the headwall left of 'Take it All'. Place a high wire in the corner then step right and straight up to the third bolt. Move left and up from here on opposing layaways for about eight metres (two more bolts), then up the easy leftwards corner system.This pitch was originally climbed with just one bolt (the third), back in the heady run-out days of 1982.

Sustained and poorly protected climbing when done. "Closer In has destroyed Further Out as a sustained and poorly protected climb, putting four bolts in the crux section." - Keith Bell. Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face.

1. 25m (19) - Climb the right side of the pillar, then up over a large flake on the right to a sloping ledge. Leftwards up a steepening ramp (originally aided with a peg), then step left to a large ledge.

2. a) 35m (18) - Pull onto the slabs behind the belay, trending slightly right past a small bush to reach a narrow ledge at 15 metres. Continue trending rightwards up a vague weakness in the slab to belay at a ledge (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

   b) 35m (19) Alternatively and better, step diagonally right for a few moves from the right hand end of the large ledge, then straight up wall to a sickle shaped ledge/crack (Keith Bell). Finish as for 'Outer Limit' or 'Closer In'.

A popular four pitch route on the Central Slab. The first two pitches make an excellent moderate grade slab route - finish up Outer Limit, Rooty Hill or Dry Route, or bail left up the gully. Look for the bolts above a pillar, although the original set has been slightly pruned.

1. 50m (19/22) - Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face. Up the left side of the pillar and then onto the steep wall following bolts. Straight up the overlap (22) or step left and meander back (19). Move right and up past numerous bolts and sickle shaped crack to double bolt belay (shared with 'Rubbishman', 'Extreme Youth' et al.).

2. 50m (20) - Step up and left, up the flake, then straight up past two bolts. At the third bolt traverse left and slightly up to the fourth bolt. Continue up past a couple more bolts to a bolt belay at a small scoop.

3. 25m (22) - The easiest line up the steep blocky wall past two bolts, with a hard move to gain the slab. Double bolt belay to the right on the ledge.

4. 35m (19) - Up the corner then right to easy ground (shared with 'Space Wasted').

Another good climb on 'The Central Slabs'. Start at the pillar as for 'Closer In'.

1. 30m (20) - Climb the left side of the pillar, then move left and up (unprotected crux) to a ledge (the first belay on 'Further Out'). Climb up left to belay on a ledge below the overlaps.

2. 20m (16) - Up the overlaps and slabs to a scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Space Wasted').

3. 48m (20) - A fine pitch that takes a line up the slab between 'Space Waltz' and the third pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Traverse right to climb the left side of an overlap, then up the steepening grey slab (crux). Climb onto a huge undercut block from the right to find a bolt. Up the slab for 15 metres (crossing 'Closer In' between the bolts) to where it eases, then move right across a lichenous strip. Up the corner to join 'Outer Limit'.

An excellent direct climb up the slabs and headwall. Start left of the pillar of 'Closer In' and just right of 'Space Wasted', directly below bolts in blankness. The third pitch could now be one of the best at Booroomba.

1. 45m (23) – An initial delicate slab crux then enjoyable climbing following the bolts straight up to double-bolt anchor.

2. 50m (21) – Straight up the slab, crossing 'Closer In' at about 25m, and continue up the water-streak just left of the lichen. Move slightly right near the top, up a small pleasant vertical wall on good edges to an anchor below the orange corner of 'Space Wasted'.

3. 40m (24) – Up the impressive overhanging orange corner on good gear, as for 'Space Wasted'. Continue straight up the open-book corner, with more great climbing up to a bolt. Bust out right and transition from dangling to slabbing. Continue up to a second bolt, follow the left-trending flake on good holds (brilliantly exposed) above, then straight up to DBB.

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

1. 20m (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

3. 50m (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

4. 15m (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

5. 35m (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

Will this sporty route re-ignite the slab-climbing craze of Booroomba's heyday? Try it yourself to find out. Start 25m left of 'Closer In'. Do some pull-ups on a nearby tree to warm up for the first-move crux.

1. 12m (22) Up the slab past three bolts to a large bushy ledge. Belay at the tree.

2. 25m (21) Boulder past the first bolt then crimpy slabbing up the wall above, using the black flake right of the bolts for a few metres then back left. 10 bolts. Double bolt belay on the main traverse ledge.

3. 54m (19) Up easily past two bolts then up the corner to the right (gear), crossing Jubilate and joining the start of Space Waltz. Crux move past the bolt up and left off the ledge, then follow comfy positive flakes up the steep slab. When the bolts run out head straight up to double bolt belay at the back of the recess. 10 bolts.

A good climb but the upper pitches are poorly protected and quite serious. It takes a line up the lower slabs right of 'Outer Limit' to finish on the left-hand side. Start 30 metres left of 'Closer In' at a short crack below a ledge.

1. 18m (15) - Climb the crack to the ledge and traverse easily right to a tree and large flat rock at the right-hand side.

2. 25m (18) - Climb through the bulge to gain a crack system. Follow this up and right to a ramp above. Move right along the ramp for a few metres, then step onto the slab above (just short of a ledge). Left to a bolt then up the slab to a large scoop on the 'Outer Limit' traverse (shared with 'Crimble Cromble' and 'Space Wasted').

3. 12m (16) - Serious, although there is gear if you look for it. Exit from the scoop on the left and traverse steeply up left to a corner to belay.

4. 45m (18) - Poorly protected. Leftwards onto a traverse line to within six metres of 'Linear Crack' (just before the bolts on 'Bananas in Pyjamas'), then up and right to an open corner. Double bolt belay in the recess above.

Start as for Jubilate.

1. 45m (18) – Up a short crack to a bushy ramp (optional tree belay here). Up the flaky corner right of the belay tree. Continue straight up where it divides to gain the right-trending v-corner. Jam, grovel or bridge your way up this. Exit onto the slab and up past two bolts to trad belay out right. Variant, better but harder: start up Double Canasta to the ledge.

2. 55m (21) – Up the rounded wall past two bolts to a scoopy ledge (gear). Head up and right to a shallow vertical layback flake. Exit the top of this (crux, bolt) to reach better holds. Follow your nose up and slightly right to eventually join ‘Closer In’ at the top of the pitch. Nine bolts all up.

The original route on 'The Central Slabs', a diagonal ascent from left to right. Start as for Jubilate.

1. 35m (18) - Ascend the short crack to a bushy ledge. Scramble up to a grey, flaky area (bolt). Traverse left along the flake then up and left past a couple of bolts, then up the shallow water runnel to a ledge (double bolt belay). Although still climbable, exfoliation all up the water runnel makes this pitch less enjoyable than before the 2020 fires.

2. 35m (3) - Traverse 20 metres right along a ledge system until it peters out, continue around a bulge and follow more ledges to beneath a vertical flake formed crack (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

3. 42m (18) - Up the flake formed crack for 6 metres, then traverse right (well below the first bolt on 'Closer In') and then up and left to a ledge with small gear and a very dubious bolt. Up over ledges, a corner and mossy slab to a ledge and bush (or continue on to the second belay (double bolts) on 'Closer In' - this is the belay marked in the topo).

4. 24m (8) - Climb the crack, trending left for about six metres, then traverse left for about 12 metres and up into a short V-groove to double bolt belay.

5. 18m (18) - Climb the corner and crack above to the left side of the overhanging yellow rock, across the gap and onto a large ledge.

6. 25m (16) - Climb up right for five metres onto a flaky ledge, then up left to another. Continue over a short wall to the top.

From the top of the flakes on the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' trend right to a bolt. Continue up the wall to double bolt belay on ledge as for 'Outer Limit'. It appears most of the flake holds fell off in the 2020 fires, pretty much destroying this variant pitch.

A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'.

Start at the bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Takes the left-hand line of holds and scoops. Climb up carefully (a marginal 2 or 3 rock provides some protection four metres up) and onto a ramp and up the steep wall above.

Quite pleasant. Starts a few metres left of the fifth pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Up the short wall to the steep orange corner which converges to an arete at the top. Straight up, moving right to a tricky mantle near the top.

A companion climb. Start at a groove a few metres left of 'Dry Route'. Up the groove to an alcove and out through the rooflet. Up the crack and wall above to the top.

A serious direct route to the right of the top pitch of 'Jubilate'. Start at the third belay on 'Jubilate'. Move right and up to a bolt, then hard moves up to flakes. An easier but runout section then leads to the belay as for 'Jubilate' and 'Bananas in Pyjamas'.

Warning Rock: Fire damage

A comparatively direct and well-protected route up the left side of the central slabs. Take a light rack and plenty of quickdraws. Start 20m left of Outer Limit, just left of the access rope for the Snickers Wall ledge.

1. 20m (16) Easily up the broken slab past a few bolts to belay next to a 2m spike below a corner.

2. 25m (20) Straight up the fused corner past a few bolts until the overlap. Through the overlap at the jug (good gear), stand up and clip a bolt. Slab up then right to DBB as for 'Outer Limit' P1.

3. 15m (18) Directly and carefully up from the belay on holds and scoops (as for 'Jubilate Direct Start'; small wires provide protection four metres up). Continue to the upper ramp. Right along this to DBB.

4. 40m (19 or 21) Step right and up the short corner, then traverse left again above the belay to your choice of two variants - right (B1, 21) or left (B2, 19). B1 and B2 merge after about 15m. Either way slab up, trending slightly right following the bolts, until you reach a DBB. From here go horizontally right to the last pitch of Outer Limit, or continue up and right another 8m to a second DBB, directly below the start of Dry Route. Finish up Rooty Hill, Dry Route or Outer Limit. B1 variant has a direct start: step left and crank up from the belay past a bolt (pre-clip from the belay), and continue up B1.

Start approximately below 'Further Out' at a leftwards slanting crackline.

1. 20m - Traverse left along the crack to a block, then up the wall and overlap to a tree belay.

2. 20m - Up the crack on the left for six metres, then back right on another and up to the top.

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

The crack/trench bounding the left end of the Central Slabs. The crack is hard to get to, and not particularly worthwhile anyway. The aid used on the second pitch was freed by Roark Muhlen as part of 'Powder Finger Finish'. Climb the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' or the first and second pitches of 'Bananas in Pyjamas'.

1. 8m - From the 'Outer Limit' belay, climb up and slightly left (small wires) as for 'Jubilate Direct Start', and continue up and left to the base of the crack.

2. 15m - Climb the thin cracks (crux) left of the main crack past a tree, to belay where the cracks converge.

3. 32m - Climb the crack to a stance.

4. 12m - Scramble up to finish. DBB on left.

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit' (now claimed by Bananas in Pyjamas P2), but the route as described is much better. Start above the second bolt of 'Bananas in Pyjamas' (scramble up the bushy gully). This is 10m right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

1. 40m (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the crazed crack/groove to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up (past a bolt on 'Bananas in Pyjamas') to a ledge. Extensive exfoliation in the 2020 fires has made the first 15m (which was already serious) harder, less good, and extremely dangerous.

2. 25m (22) - Frees the old aid section of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

3. 35m (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 40m (23) For the original route: move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (shared with 'Only the Good Die Young'). At the horizontal break undercling out right for four metres. (A direct start was bolted at a later date, but then extensively damaged by the 2020 fire: blast straight up past two bolts to join the original route at the right-hand end of the horizontal break.) Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge (DBB).

2. 15m (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to a curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

3. 35m (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back. DBB.

Brilliant climbing up the steep slabs and impressive headwall left of 'The Central Slabs'. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 25m (19) Move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (as for 'Smash Palace' original start). At the horizontal break pull left around the arete and onto the face. Delicately up to belay on top of the flake.

2. 20m (22) Scary face climbing up to a bolt, then straight up to a horizontal seam. Move right to avoid the scrub near the top. Huge belay ledge.

3. 18m (21) - The headwall. Up the short corner on the left to an undercling, then swing right and up to a small stance. Up the wall to a diagonal leftward flake, and left at the top of this to a hanging belay at a small bush and horizontal break (DBB). A spacey belay in a superb position.

4. 37m (22) Climb directly above the belay to another horizontal break, then follow this rightwards until it vanishes. Straight up the slab, past a bolt, then slightly left up a dyke. Blast easily to the top (DBB).

No bolts, no chips, no fun! A devious and run-out climb taking a line between 'Only the Good Die Young' and 'Vent Crack'. Start just right of 'Vent Crack', five metres up on a small ledge.

1. 40m (21) - Move right and climb a short corner. Continue up the wall to join 'Only the Good Die Young' for a few moves. Move left and up to a ledge. Left along this, then up the steep slab trending right to belay below an orange corner.

2. 45m (18) - Climb the corner and step left onto a ledge. Climb the ramp right to a ledge and up the obvious line of holds on the slab, past a bolt, to join 'After the Reiving' at the top.

Only the first two pitches are worth the effort. It is better to finish up Baryon. Start (marked) below the prominent crack 20 metres left of 'Outer Limit', at the right-hand end of an orange wall (Snickers Wall).

1. 25m - Climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft then step left to a small ledge. Continue up the right-facing crack, then traverse left across the top of Snickers Wall to a chain belay on a comfy ledge.

2. 15m - Climb a corner above the belay. Trend right across the slab above to a bushy gully.

3. 30m - Follow the gully easily until blocked by a prominent bulge.

4. 30m - Climb the bulge using a crack and slab on the left, then the ramp.

5. 34m - Climb a prominent nose on the wall left of a scoop, to finish on easy slabs. Basically just a glorified walkoff.

An improvement on the middle sections of 'Vent Crack'

1. 25m - As for Vent Crack P1: climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft then step left to a small ledge. Continue up the right-facing crack, then traverse left across the top of Snickers Wall to a chain belay on a comfy ledge.

2. 25m - Climb a corner above the belay. Straight up the slab then traverse left and up to an obvious corner, up this to a ledge.

3. 20m - Climb the slab using the huge flake and continue over poised blocks and through bushes (to rejoin 'Vent Crack'). Up a short crack on the left of the bulge to a stance.

4. 30m - Climb the water-smoothed slab to the left of the bulge, crossing right to an obvious weakness and up to a large ledge.

5. 10m - climb the short wall and scramble to the top.

The despoliation hadn't even started! Ascends the prominent buttress above and right from 'Vent Crack'. A nice finish to 'Vent Crack' or 'Baryon'. Start at the end of the third pitch of 'Vent Crack'. Climb the bulge up the wide, slanting crack on the right, then traverse down and right to a ledge. Pleasantly up a groove to the top.

Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route.