★ Marmalade 11

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.