Site navigation

Information needed

This crag does not have approach information. Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Description

From the back of campsites 31, 32 or 33 (see http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/314472/Park-note-Mt-Buffalo-Lake-Catani-summer-camping.pdf ) head up hill. There's a few bolders. Paralax boulder is on the right. Boldfinger is the diagonal crack facing camp, Paralax the splitter on the southern face. 2 carrots for anchors on top. Descend by downclimbing (scary) or simulrapping.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

FA: Peter Watson & Nic Taylor, 1976

From Site 16, walk about 30m up the hill to the jumble of scrappy boulders and skirt to the left. A short and wickedly left-curving offwidth, capped by a small roof, presents itself.

Set a top-rope off of bomber boulder anchors on top, lead it (nothing bigger than #4 camalots required), or suck it up and boulder it out...

Excellent after-dinner or after-breakfast entertainment (for spectators)

FA: Ro Latimer, Samuel May & James Bultitude, 29 Nov 2013

Activity

Check out what is happening in Campsite Area.