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Enjoyable slab climbing in a proud position high on Mackey’s. Pitch 1 is probably one of the best slab pitches at the grade at Buffalo, and pitch 3 pulls through a body-height overlap. 60m rope essential.

Start: most parties will approach this via the first 6 pitches of Good Luck and Good Management (and this might become the preferred finish to that route). When done this way, the combined route is 498m with pitches of 12,14,14,13,6,9,15,12,14,6. It would also be possible to rap in, but you’d need to scramble down the top slab to find the last belay bolt (SS FH in a good stance), then rap 58m to the bushy ledge, then 40m to the DBB, then 60m to the base, and retrieve gear on the ascent.

  1. 60m 15. As for GLAGM pitch 7, start up the slab, move right to the crack, up this (cams, take a Fr#4 for the highest possible placement) and up to the bolt (FH) on GLAGM. Then straight up the clean white slab, passing 3 more FH’s, to a DBB on a small stance just as you run out of rope.

  2. 45m 12. Straight up over a small overlap (pro), then up the grey slab to a FH, then straight up over another small overlap and into the bushy ledge. One FH (and many small trees) for belay.

  3. 58m 14. Up the slab to the overlap (high FH). Pull through this on good holds and follow the lovely dyke up the slab above (occasional pro) to a single FH at a good stance just before you run out of rope.

  4. 40m 6. Up easily to the top, or scramble off right.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Toal, Mei Ying Liew & Damien Heath, 22 Jan 2011

    Bolted on lead.


Located in Mackeys Lookout approx:
Lat/Long: -36.711500,146.830361

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
15 Dave Scarlett

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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