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Description

Be aware that communication can be difficult on the 'North Wall', even on short pitches, due to Crystal Brook. Even when it's barely flowing the waterfalls and cascades create plenty of noise. It's worth pre-arranging a backup form of communication.

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Brushed streak on left end of upper part of North Wall. Starts at bottom of second abseil on Comet Ramp at a small flake corner.

FA: Scott Camps, 1991

FFA: Scott Camps & Mark Elliot, 1993

1 8
2
1 6
2

Quality, clean all-free route up the 'North Wall'. Equipped to rap down/climb out. Finishes in the same spot as Yellow Moon.

Start: Rap off gum to chains at top of wall 50m right (looking out)of Defender rap, where Yellow Moon finishes. Yellow moon rap chains are on steep part of the slab a few metres down from the obvious ledge. 45m rap to DBB (2 carrots on small stance on left side of the big arch), then 50m rap to deck. DBB at base of route, 10 metres downhill from where you land on rap.

  1. 25m (20) step right off belay then follow crack up and left to sickle. Belay at DBB. Cams and wires to Camalot#2

  2. 25m (24) Step left (bolt)and gingerly into pod below bleached crack of Zeus. Up crack (crux) to stance (bolt). Continue straight up crack past another bolt to belay on stance left of arching roof. 'Small' and medium wires, cams to Camalot#2

  3. 45m (23) Up past 4 bolts,left onto large dyke. Up dyke (2 bolts)to re-gain crack. Up (bolt)to left leading ramp. up this past 2 bolts to DBB with chain. Med Wires and Cams to Camalot #2

FA: John Scwerdfeger (Pitch 1)

FA: Adrian Laing (Pitches 2 & 3), 2008

Fantastic climbing in an awesome position.

FA: John Schwerdfeger & Bob Cowan, 2001

A great climb to do as an Aid warm up for Ozymandias Direct, A great free climb too I am sure! https://vimeo.com/57035617

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1974

FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton).

P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot).

P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help).

P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended.

FA: S Mentz & I Vickers, 1995

FA: G Poultney & A Darragh, 1996

1 18
2
1 21
2

Start: Start as for Emperor, down and right of the obvious amazing Emperor chimney above.

  1. 24m (15) As for Emperor.

  2. 30m (21)

  3. 40m (- M5)

  4. 43m (- M5)

  5. 12m (-)

  6. 46m (-)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & John Smoothy (p2)

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Dewhirst & Geoff Gledhill (15M5), 1970

Start: Start by rapping in 65m to the top of p3 of Il Duce.

  1. 45m (28)

  2. 25m (19)

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Kirsty Hamilton, 1991

Start: Start atop p2 of Il Duce.

  1. 45m (25)

  2. 25m (23)

  3. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

FA: Craig Peacock & Kevin Lindorff (1 aid), 1982

FFA: Craig Peacock, 1982

  1. 24m (15) As for Il Duce p1.

  2. 30m (21) As for Il Duce p2.

  3. 45m (25) As for 'El Supremo' p1.

  4. 25m (23) As for 'El Supremo' p2.

  5. 30m (25) As for 'Lebensraum' p2.

The Variant Start (described below) is possibly a better and cleaner way to do this.

Start: Start as for Emperor.

  1. 34m (15)

  2. 42m (21)

  3. 40m (17) As for Führer p3.

  4. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan (19M1), 1974

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Little is known about this but it looks like a nice clean way to start Führer Eliminate.

Start: Start as for Führer.

  1. 34m (25)

  2. 34m (25) M3 if aided.

  3. 40m (17)

  4. 34m (21)

FFA: Malcolm Matheson (p1

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Ian Guild & Phil Seccomb (M4), 1966

FA: Greg Mortimer, Keith Bell (p3&4 mostly free & M416), 1972

FFA: Kevin Lindorff (p4), 1977

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff (p1 25M1 & p2 freed at 25 to roof), 1978

Start: Start as for Führer.

  1. 30m (25) - 4 bolts

  2. 43m (25) - 1 bolts

  3. 35m (24) - 3 bolts

  4. 32m (25)

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1991

Start: 'Access' by 2 abseils down the route: 40m to bolted anchor (which is the 3rd belay of Mein Kampf), then another 25m to a trad belay alcove just L of the 2nd belay of 'Lord of the Flies'.

  1. 25m (23) - 7 bolts

  2. 30m (25)

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1992

Start: Stat as for Führer.

  1. 34m (25) As for Führer p1.

  2. 27m (23)

  3. 24m (19)

  4. 35m (23)

  5. 18m (-)

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest (23M1 & 2 aid bolts at start)

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie (M4), 1971

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1991

1 21
2
  1. 35m (21 M1)

  2. 40m (21 M1)

1 21
2
  1. 40m (21)

  2. 27m (- M5)

  3. 24m (-)

  4. 21m (-)

  5. 43m (-)

1 23
2
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 21m (-)

  3. 24m (- M4)

  4. 21m (-)

  5. 43m (-)

1 23
2
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 27m (- M1)

  3. 43m (-)

  4. 43m (-)

1 23
2
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 27m (- M1)

  3. 57m (- M5)

  4. 24m (-)

  5. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' p9.

  6. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' p10.

Start: Start as for She.

  1. 36m (18 M4)

  2. 24m (- M5) The M5 grade probably comes from this pitch.

  3. 30m (-)

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

1 18
2

What a way to spend Xmas.

Start: Start as for 'Usurper'.

  1. 35m (18 M4) Same as 'Usurper'.

  2. 40m (- M4)

  3. 20m (- M4) 3? bolts.

  4. 29m (- M4)

  5. 25m (- M4)

  6. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' 2nd last pitch.

  7. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' last pitch.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Vera Wong (24thth Dec. 1993), 1926

Start: Start at the 4th belay of Magic and Loss (or one pitch higher at the 3rd last belay of Ozymandias).

  1. 10m (-)

  2. 25m (- M4)

  3. 15m (- M4)

  4. 20m (- M4)

FA: Stefan Eberhard, 1995

1 21
2

Start: Start at thin crack 27m R of 'Tyrant', a few metres L of the original's aid bolts.

  1. 40m (21)

  2. 25m (21)

  3. 33m (-)

  4. 27m (- M6)

  5. 25m (-)

  6. 21m (16) As for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

  7. 24m (14) As for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

FA: Nic Taylor, Andrew Thomson & 2nd-5th, 1975

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson & Glenn Tempest (freed p1&p2)., 1978

Start: A Link up from the 3rd belay of She into the roof section of 'Ozymandias'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Matt Taylor, 2000

Apart from the pendule from Magic & Loss into She, it's hard to see how this differs from p1 of 'Strange Ritual'.

Start: Start at the 4th belay of She.

FA: Stefan Eberhard, 1994

1 22
2

Start: Start as for She.

  1. 40m (21) As for She.

  2. 40m (21 M1)

  3. 35m (22)

  4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

FA: Joe Friend, Kevin Lindorff & as described

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Glenn Tempest & penduled from the top of p2 of She, 1978

1 20
2

Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.

  1. 40m (-)

  2. 27m (- M5)

  3. 35m (20)

  4. 8m (-) R to join 'Ozymandias' about 15m above Big Grassy. Finish up the last 5 and a half pitches of 'Ozymandias', or up 'Ozymandias Direct' or whatever else takes your fancy in the vicinity.

FA: Dave Gairns & Reg Marron, 1976

An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.

  1. 22, 30m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door at small right facing corner 30 meters below the second abseil down ‘Comet ramp’. Beautiful laybacking for 8 meters then follow feature rightward under yellow roof. Belay at 4BB. (small-mid wires, small to large cams).

  2. 28, 30m. Powerful dynamic climbing past 3 fixed hangers out to and up hanging arête, then step right into next crack system at height of roof, follow this for about 10m until a finger crack leads left to belay stance 1BB and #3 Camalot. (small – mid cams).

  3. 23, 25m. Step left into twin seams following a few mashies, continue up for about 6 meters until it becomes possible to reach left to good holds leading directly leftward 5 meters to big left facing flakes. Continue up flakes to several fixed hangers and thinner moves. Belay at stance to the right with small – mid cams. (mid – large cams and some fixed bits and bobs).

  4. 28, 30m. Follow easy crack for about 5 meters then step left into seam with fixed RP and small wire placement, continue straight up to two consecutive left leading flakes (fixed hanger). Delicate moves left into crack, up a few meters then left again to fixed hanger. Left again to crack then up to a 2BB at small stance. (small wires and small cams)

  5. 27, 40m. Head right and up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots. (Small – mid cams).

  6. 28, 30m. ‘Piton Roof ‘ Insecure climbing straight up small yellow right facing corner to roof past small wires and cams. Two novel pitons protect thin moves rightward under roof to powerful crack and layback over the lip. Continue 7m to 4BB. (micro wires and small - mid cams)

  7. 22, 30m. As for Rats in Paradise. Follow crack as it transition to offwidth then back to flake. Reach left as flake ends to belay on small ledge at 2BB. (mid – large cams)

  8. 20, 40m. Elegant offwidthing up and left past 2 fixed hangers then straight up more offwidth to topout at Wilkinsons Lookout.

FFA: lee cossey, 1 Jan 2013

Start: Start 6m R of KoHD.

  1. 35m (-)

  2. 40m (-)

  3. 35m (-)

  4. 40m (-)

  5. 25m (-)

  6. 55m (- M8) M9 but the ACA scale ends at M8!

  7. 20m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'

FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little Easter, 1981

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

  1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

  2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

  3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

  4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

  5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

  6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

  7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

  8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

  9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

  10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

FA: John Ewbank, Chris Baxter (pitches 1-4, M5 & pre), 1969

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (14M5 with hammers & 18-), 1969

FA: Rick White, John Hattink (FCA & mids).,

If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing).

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

  1. 25m (23) Bouldery moves past 2 bolts, then L up slabby ramp to crack. Up to flake/ledge (DBB).

  2. 52m (28) The amazing thin corner, which gets a bit funky in places. Climb straight past the aid belay at 30m and finish on a ledge off to the R just after 50m (DBB).

  3. 30m (25) Up the thin corner (you might need to dig out dirt from some holds), then hand traverse L to ledge. Up crack to Big Grassy (FHs).

  4. 35m (24) Thin gear and moves up the corner above Big Grassy (technically a couple grades easier on top rope, but the gear fills up the holds and running it out above a ledge fall is not much of an option). The pitch then gets a bit easier, up the grassy face crack slightly R of the corner, then over yellow rooflet and up THE corner a little way to an uncomfortable hanging belay (DFH). It's a major shame that these bolts weren't placed lower at a natural stance; this corner would be even more of a mega pitch otherwise.

  5. 30m (22) Probably the best grade 22 pitch at 'Buffalo', despite the artificial hanging stance where it starts. The searing L-trending corner is quality all the way. Quite sustained. Just before the top of the corner follow the traverse line 5m L to a trad belay on the arete.

  6. 35m (22) Interesting cracks through the bulges around to the L. Sustained, wide at times, and grungy; but good value. Triple FH belay.

  7. 15m (19) Traverse L along vigorous crack to ledge.

  8. 20m (14) A tricky start, then head up the labyrinth of chimneys.

  9. 25m (10) Up the chimneys and big blocks to freedom, salvation and glory.

FA: "(see Ozymandias entry for aid history).", 1989

1 22
2
  1. 24m (- M2) As for 'Ozymandias' p1.

  2. 34m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p2.

  3. 40m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p3.

  4. 6m (10) As for 'Ozymandias' p4 to Big Grassy.

  5. 30m (- M3) Leave Big Grassy as for 'Ozymandias', then take the R corner and head up to TBB.

  6. 25m (- M3) Up the bolt ladder to the belay under the roof.

  7. 37m (- M4) Wander out the line through the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Belay at the large collection of bolts (the Gledhill Bivvy).

  8. 30m (- M3) Head R on bolts then turn the roof and up to ramp. Cut back L and then up the wide crack behind the Pontooth (some fixed pegs and big cams). Up deep crack to DBB.

  9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up trending slightly R at some stage to base of chimney (DBB, belay possible), then head up chimney to ledge with plaque.

  10. 15m (- M3) The offwidth corner. It is possible to use the thin crack/seam on the L wall until it peters out and the use of wide gear becomes necessary.

Wow.

Start: As for 'Ozymandias'.

  1. 25m (23) As for 'Ozymandias'.

  2. 52m (28) As for 'Ozymandias'.

  3. 30m (25) As for 'Ozymandias'. You are now on Big Grassy.

  4. 35m (24) As for 'Ozymandias'.

  5. 30m (22) As for 'Ozymandias'.

  6. 40m (28) The roof and orange corner pitch. Follows bolts R to rejoin the line of Direct below the first big roof. Swing out through the roof and up gorgeous orange corner, then move R below Gledhill bivvy to belay on arete (as for Lord Gumtree).

  7. 35m (22) Follow crack L and behind the Pontooth, then up more cracks (passing aid belay) to DBB at base of chimney.

  8. 15m (10) Up the chimney to ledge with plaque. Can be linked with the next (or previous) pitch.

  9. 20m (24) The offwidth corner. Take some big cams and go for it. Belay off a tourist (or use the handrail if there are no tourists about).

FA: (see Ozymandias Direct entry), 1995

M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson

Start: Start as for Ozy.

  1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

  2. 40m (- M5)

  3. 40m (- M3)

  4. 40m (- M4)

  5. 25m (- M6) The puny flake out the massive roof. M7 if done clean.

  6. 20m (- M5)

  7. 30m (- M3) 27 if done as the finish to 'Lord Gumtree' free.

  8. 15m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'.

FA: Col Reece & early 80s, 2000

Start: Start 6m below Big Grassy.

  1. 30m (22)

  2. 35m (22) Finish up Ozy or 'Free Blast'.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995

1 22
2

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

  1. 22m (12 M3)

  2. 25m (22)

  3. 12m (20)

  4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995

Start: Start at the 7th belay of Ozy. This can be done as a rap-in-climb-out exercise, reached by a 55m abseil from the platform just W of Wilkinson's 'Lookout' (a tree anchor is well back and needs to be extended close to the edge if a 60m rope is to reach).

FA: Julie Styles & Stefan Eberhard, 1995

Start: Start at the top of p1 of Ozy.

  1. 35m (- M7) As for 'Lord Gumtree' for 10m then the crack on the R.

  2. 50m (- M7) Crack to rejoin 'Lord Gumtree'. 'Escape' off R up the long death scramble between Ozy Buttress and Mother Buttress, or finish up pitches 5-10 of 'Lord Gumtree'.

FA: Andrew McCauly, Vera Wong & Easter, 1995

1 22
2

Start: Start as for Ozy.

  1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

  2. 27m (- M3)

  3. 18m (- M4)

  4. 30m (- M6)

  5. 40m (- M7)

  6. 40m (- M5)

  7. 40m (- M4)

  8. 30m (- M3)

  9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

  10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

FFA: Steve Monks

FA: Peter McKeand & Chris Dewhirst 26-, 1971

FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor (FCA), 1975

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Matt Taylor & Giles Bradbury (p8&9), 1977

Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack ....

FA: Eddie Ozols & Greg Pritchard, 1982

FFA: Peter Croft & M Matheson, 1990

Start: Start as for She.

  1. 40m (21) As for She.

  2. 25m (21) As for She.

  3. 45m (23 M3)

  4. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  5. 35m (23) As for 'Free Blast'.

  6. 12m (20)

  7. 15m (-) Finish up 'Strange Ritual' or Ozy Direct.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 2000

M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far. From the R side of Big Grassy head up the flake/seam/crack to join 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start at Big Grassy.

FA: Gren Hinton ', 2002

  1. 27m (-)

  2. 18m (-)

  3. 21m (-)

  4. 40m (17) As for Führer p3.

  5. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton

FA: Roland Pauligk & Peter Treby (M5), 1969

If and when the 2nd pitch gets added this will be a pretty amazing line, for those so inclined. In the meantime, presumably you instead exit L into 'Mussolini' or Il Duce.

Start: Start at the top of Führer Eliminate.

FA: Gren Hinton, 2002

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