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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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Grade Route

First grade 24 in Australia.

FFA: Nic Taylor & Peter Watson, 1976

1 16

Route goes totally free at 18/19. Easy laybacking to some tricky moves through the roof. Great climbing.

FFA: Tim & scott crameri, Jan 2016

2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.

1 20

Variant start to Wicked Solitaire. Climb the arete past 3 bolts.

Wide crack/chimney R of WS. Rap in towards waterfall from WS rap point.

Up chimney, move Across into corner then up crack to belay on ledge. Scramble up L to top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Eddie Ozols, 1976

Rap in from tree a few metres to the right of LGL to belay off medium cams or just sit in tree.

Up not too steep hand / fist crack back to the top. No much of a warmup for LGL but might get some blood going and test your tape job if using it ....

FA: FTRSA Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 25 Jan 2016

FFA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 26 Jan 2016

Rap in from tree at top to belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.

Up the crack varying from fingers to thin hands to hands. Some may be rattle depending on your hand size, and will alter where the crux is accordingly.

Doubles of small/medium cams or medium to large wires if that way inclined. Hexes or TriCams would be fun and make it a bit more challenging for your second - if your that way inclined ...

FA: Ian Anger & Mal Grey, 1981

Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL.

FFA: Stuart Wyithe & Malcolm Matheson, 2000


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