routes as trad in The Hump Area
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Showing all 10 routes.
|17||★ Prospero's Cell
|15||★ Son Of Ariel
Route immediately R of Ariel, at the top of the ramp follow straight up 2 bolts.
|23||★★ Bum Steer
|20||★★ Cows with Guns
Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.
FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999
|19||★★ Chickens in Choppers
Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.
To get to the start, the guidebook update advises rapping from the Cows With Guns chains, but it's best to get a belay for the exposed scramble down the narrow buttress to the two carrot top belay, and then rap from there. Avoid the horror chimney/offwidth at all costs. Trad belay (med cams) on the awesome surfboard chockstone to start.
Traverses all the way (past BR) to the Arete.
|19||★ Run free with the buffalo
According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.
|22||★ The Icing On The Cake
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996
|75m, 2, 9|
|18||★★★ The Initiation
Starts beneath the thick flake on the right side of the main cliffline - just around the corner. Climb the flake crack for approx 50 metres, then traverse across and down past carrot bolts to the deep gully and up the obvious grade 15 handcrack visible in the opposite wall - finish up the slab. Take two or three bolt plates.
Start: You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - Refer to the Mt 'Buffalo' Guide by Kevin Lindorf and Simon Murray. The scramble in at the base of the cliff is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. But in the end the climb is worth it!
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970
FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976
|The Pimp Hand
Cleaned and bolted by Singer Smith and Geoff Gledhill January 2011. Most of the upper crack and face scoop has been freed between 22 and 24, but the start is &%^*#%^ hard (at least 30?), campusing on fingerlocks for 8-10 meters or toe-hooking the aretes at a horribly overhung angle. Aid climbers would have a lot of fun on a route this steep.
Start: Located on the pillar about 50 meters uphill from the second-to-last ski lift pole and can be approached from the ski run or by walking past the Hump and crossing the gully.
Showing all 10 routes.