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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Summit Areas
17 Prospero's Cell
Trad 15m
15 Son Of Ariel

Route immediately R of Ariel, at the top of the ramp follow straight up 2 bolts.

Mixed 22m, 2
The Hump
23 Bum Steer
Trad 60m
20 Cows with Guns

Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Mixed 50m, 7
19 Chickens in Choppers

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

To get to the start, the guidebook update advises rapping from the Cows With Guns chains, but it's best to get a belay for the exposed scramble down the narrow buttress to the two carrot top belay, and then rap from there. Avoid the horror chimney/offwidth at all costs. Trad belay (med cams) on the awesome surfboard chockstone to start.

Traverses all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

Trad 30m
19 Run free with the buffalo

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

Mixed 30m, 6
22 The Icing On The Cake
  1. 40m Start on Initiation for 15m, move left then up past 5 carrots to double carrot belay.

  2. 35m Straight up past 4 carrots to abseil chains.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996

Mixed 75m, 2, 9
18 The Initiation

Starts beneath the thick flake on the right side of the main cliffline - just around the corner. Climb the flake crack for approx 50 metres, then traverse across and down past carrot bolts to the deep gully and up the obvious grade 15 handcrack visible in the opposite wall - finish up the slab. Take two or three bolt plates.

Start: You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - Refer to the Mt 'Buffalo' Guide by Kevin Lindorf and Simon Murray. The scramble in at the base of the cliff is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. But in the end the climb is worth it!

  1. 14m (18) Chimney up to, then up the flake to where you are most comfortable.

  2. 26m (12) Continue right along the crack flake and up to a small ledge - though the recommeded way to climb this pitch now is to continue on to a comfy belay at the 1st bolt (and large cams) before the traverse.

  3. 27m (15) Continue up and around the nose to a bolt then across and down past one new and two old carrot bolts to the comfy seat below the hand crack. This traverse is best done as a separate pitch - refer to the 2nd pitch alternative.

  4. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue to the top.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970

FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976

Trad 97m, 4
23 Redbacks
Trad 25m
The Pimp Hand

Cleaned and bolted by Singer Smith and Geoff Gledhill January 2011. Most of the upper crack and face scoop has been freed between 22 and 24, but the start is &%^*#%^ hard (at least 30?), campusing on fingerlocks for 8-10 meters or toe-hooking the aretes at a horribly overhung angle. Aid climbers would have a lot of fun on a route this steep.

Start: Located on the pillar about 50 meters uphill from the second-to-last ski lift pole and can be approached from the ski run or by walking past the Hump and crossing the gully.


Showing all 10 routes.