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CLIMBERS have permission to climb here, but take care not to trespass. If in doubt of access, it's best to walk through the state forest., from the south.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

Climb the easy angled buttress left of the tree

FA: David Gray & Lewis Carey, 1980

The route just left of chimney all on carrots. No anchor

Set by Shane Trotter

Up on vibrant orange rock on ring bolts. Anchors way back on block to rappel from or loweroff last bolt

The route on the arete, past carrot to gain large bucket at ring. Then head up and left to tricky crux moves to large flatter. Head straight up on good edges to good undercling at lower offs.

Set by Shane Trotter

Straight up to 3rd bolt ( top rope this ) and then finish as for GN

Average protection for a trad route, past scoop to jug and trend up into mosy corner to shared anchor

Past 4 RBs, the third with maillon, and one FH to new anchors. No trad gear needed any longer.

Just right of chimney. Has been retro bolted with consent of FA. From 1st bolt head up and gain sneaky undercling to make 3rd clip easier. Balance move with high right foot gets you to the left side of break in mini roof. Old school shenanigans unlock the move across to the right and then up onto easier ground. Head up and right, some longer draws might help avoid a little rope drag on the way to the anchors above Fairway. A little painful to clean.

FA: Johnny Wilde

Offwidth and chimney up to single bolt on left wall.

The route just left of chimney trending left at top

FA: John Wilde

From ledge hard crimps and a delicate move to get to 2nd bolt. Easier moves into vertical seam, then up and slightly left to hanging block. Bouldery crux can be done 2 ways, then easier ground to anchors

FA: Jason Piper, 2004

Tricky start up to good jug, then bouldery moves up and right past 2nd bolt to gain large scoop. Heady moves leaving scoop and a tough clip to gain slanting seam up and right. Use Trotters Delight lower offs.

FA: John Wilde

FA: John Wilde, 1997

The route on ring bolts closest to beehive tree. Up black water streak trending right to share finish with Yellow Box

Starting just left of the grass tree, up just right of the crack on the white rock up high.

First bolted route to left of crack. Bouldery undercut start trending left to tricky face moves. DRB

Start 2m L of route on FHs. Up through small overlaps to DBB

FA: V Wills & D Gray, Jun 2013

Start up alcove placing small gear then through overlap. More easily to ledge and short chimney then belay from ridge.

FA: John Wilde & Wortho, 1986

FFA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Jul 2013

2m left of grasstree that leans against cliff, quite overhanging.

FA: V Wills & D Gray, Jun 2013

Come in from left passing single bolt that is hard to see. About 6 other bolt holes exist on this line with poor gear options. Unclear if abandoned project. Can be toproped now from anchors of PH.

From near top of ramp step right passing 6 bolts with very small cam placements possible. Follows a blunt areteto the left of a groove visible high. Top out and belay on boulders

Set by Shane Trotter

Start at ring bolt below roof at upper left end of ramp. Poor bolt placements, a medium cam needed and belay on boulders. Much easier if taller.

Set by Shane Trotter


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