Lower left of cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 13




Approch as per the cave, but instead of climbing into cave, head left about 60m to a black wall at the same level.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.



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Grade Route

Start 2m right of Sarah's route, on FHs. The second bolt placement has been marked but not placed, so save your back and stick clip the actual second bolt as the rock is friable. The third bolt is hard to see, but in a safe position.

FA: john Mullan, 2016

Now re-bolted on U bolts. Route is aproximatly 50m south of the access track to Hoppy's Cave. May need a little cleaning. Starts at twin grass trees. Be careful of them when lowering.

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1997

Through the small cave then up and left to anchors.

Set by James

Follow the massive u bolts up the groove, trending right. Potential for nasty fall between second and third bolt, otherwise a lot of bolts, take 14 quick draws


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