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Description

The buttress visible to the east (right, facing out) of Adams Lookout, at the top of the distinctive spine-shaped ridge. Feel The Groove is a great climb and makes the area worth a visit. There are no climbs at Adam's Lookout itself (it is outside the limestone belt, on some kind of loose crumbly "rock").

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Access issues inherited from Bungonia Gorge

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

Approach

From the Adams Lookout carpark, take the green track east towards the main lookout. After 50m cross a small railway-sleeper wooden bridge, after which the track turns left. Continue uphill for anther 100m to an open area on the top of a small knoll, where the track does a sharp turn to the right.

(Alternatively, park in the large carpark just before the main lookout, and head along the green track towards Adam's Lookout to the open area on a knoll).

Scramble downhill through the scrub (towards the main gorge) for about 100m, sticking on the ridgeline. You should be near the top of this wee crag. To access the climbs scramble down the side of the ridge to the right (east).

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History

View historical timeline

This area was visited back in the dark ages by the Sydney Rockies. Although not all details are recorded, you will find marked starts for some of these old climbs.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The first 3 routes as you scramble down to the base of this crag.

The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete.

Set by jason hayes, 1995

Such a great little climb. Slabby start with plenty of smearing and super sharp finger pockets. Next its up the tufa arete and across to gain holds on the hanging flake (rock solid). Once you are standing on top of the flake you can take a well-earned break, before the final push to the top. Back onto the arete and deep inside a hole for a hand jamb, then straigh up the face to DDB.

Set by jason hayes, 1995

FA: jason hayes, 1995

Step off the flake/ledge into a diagonal line leading to the left (nuts and wires). At the top of this power up through steep stuff past a bolt to the top.

FA: Dave Sargent & John Smart, 1985

The following easy trad routes are on the longer slabbier part of this cliff further right and round the point. These routes were put up in the dark ages. Some starts are marked, and the following list is not comprehensive.

Descent is via abseil off the back of the buttress, off a large bollard above 'BL'.

Note: topos are greatly foreshortened.

Marked start (pition) at the nice slab at the far left hand end of the buttress. Watch for loose blocks at the small alcove.

Marked start behind two black boys. Up the corner to the top of a block, then the vertical water chute (crux), being careful with gear (#4 camalot is handy). At the top of the chute step delicately right and continue up the slab (runout and ledge fall potential), diagonally right to the chossy corner and a ledge (can setup hanging belay here if rope drag is getting too much) . Short wall above this to top.

Start at the nice looking arete about 8m right of BB (4m left of CR). Head up the easy arete to the crappy yellow rock. From here traverse 10m left under the smooth bulge, over the grass tree, and across to join BB at the corner. As for BB to the top.

This route is exceptionally wandery and not recommended without double ropes and lots of extension of gear. The original intention was to tackle the bulge above the yellow rock directly, but the first ascentionist got scared and bailed left, making for an even scarier ascent notable for stupendous self-inflicted rope drag.

FA: Peter Monks, 1998

Marked start. An excellent climb up the face left of the bushy corner, with slightly tricky protection. Take care to extend gear at the sheoak just below the top to reduce rope drag.

Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection.

A nice slabby climb. Follow the cracks up to the top. Top out variants- Straight up over final boulder or traverse left under boulder then back up.

FA: Oscar Bell, 2016

Located just upstream from the SRC crag is a rather vegetated buttress that reaches about 25m in height. While much of the rock looks dirty and unpleasant, it's actually surprisingly clean.

This area is pretty over grown as of 2018

The obvious line on the downstream side of the buttress. Up the line until it makes sense to step right onto the lovely slab. Walk off the back.

The next 3 routes start a further 200m down the ragged limestone ridge directly below the SRC Crag. The crag is roughly 25m at its tallest & is fantastic Bungonia limestone. Natural protection, fixed rope to belay off at top of The Crack (Installed 2018).

Starts up the obvious left hand crack. Work your way up the corner until you reach a horizontal break that heads out towards a large black boy. From here its straight up to top out. The large blocks half way up the corner sound hollow. I dont think you could possibly move them, but it does sound a little un-nerving.

FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980s-1990's?

The obvious crack in the middle of this great little outcrop. Natural protection,fixed rope to belay off (Installed 2018).

FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980's-1990's

This routes starts in a water runnel directly below three holes.Climb up and right towards the steel hanger. Then continue up to top out. A #2 Camalot is handy for the crux move below the steel hanger

FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980s-1990's?

Activity

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