Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Bungonia Bouldering Upper Gorge Sector 2
V1 Legal Ramifications

Sit start on the big side pull over the void. Move straight up to top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 28 Sep 2014

Boulder 3m
Bungonia Bouldering Upper Gorge Sector 1
V4 Driving past

Stand start as for Fight You For It with left hand on undercling, then traverse right to the jug.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 13 Nov 2016

Boulder 4m
Bungonia Bouldering North & South Walls
V4 Cheese N' Kisses

Start about a meter to the right of "Tiger Cheese V8" on a large undercling jug. Bust out right to the lip and mantel over to top out.

FA: Natasha Wai, 11 Oct

Boulder
Bungonia Bouldering Gorge Main
V2 Jugo De Naranja

Sit start on arete. And top out

FA: Jarred Bof, 12 Sep

Boulder 3m
V1 Crescent Goon

Start matched on slopey rail and then up.

FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep

Boulder 3m
V4 The Illuninati

Stand start matching triangular hold. Paste feet on and up.

FA: Chase Gatland, 12 Sep

Boulder 3m
V0 Wet Undies

FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep

Boulder 2m
V1 Capillary Action

Sit start matched on block then move right into the crack. Follow crack up and right.

FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep

Boulder 2m
V2 Rock Over

Sit starting on same block as Dabling Bottom. RH to good crimp, rock up on heel to triangular pocket to top out.

FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep

Boulder 2m
V1 Dabling Bottom

Sit starting on large block to the right. Traverse left, then up via obvious features. Try not to dab!

FA: Adriana, 12 Sep

Boulder 2m
V8 Sex Bomb

"Classic low ball. At least its a stand start."

FA: Sam Healy, 1 Aug 2018

Boulder
V3 Death Slab

FA: lucky chance, 2002

Boulder 6m
SRC Crag
15 Adams Cherry

A nice slabby climb. Follow the cracks up to the top. Top out variants- Straight up over final boulder or traverse left under boulder then back up.

FA: Oscar Bell, 2016

Trad 30m
18 BB Double Dogleg Variant

Start at the nice looking arete about 8m right of BB (4m left of CR). Head up the easy arete to the crappy yellow rock. From here traverse 10m left under the smooth bulge, over the grass tree, and across to join BB at the corner. As for BB to the top.

This route is exceptionally wandery and not recommended without double ropes and lots of extension of gear. The original intention was to tackle the bulge above the yellow rock directly, but the first ascentionist got scared and bailed left, making for an even scarier ascent notable for stupendous self-inflicted rope drag.

FA: Peter Monks, 1998

Trad 45m
22 Unknown 2

Such a great little climb. Slabby start with plenty of smearing and super sharp finger pockets. Next its up the tufa arete and across to gain holds on the hanging flake (rock solid). Once you are standing on top of the flake you can take a well-earned break, before the final push to the top. Back onto the arete and deep inside a hole for a hand jamb, then straight up the face to DDB.

Set by jason hayes, 1995

FA: jason hayes, 1995

Sport 12m
22 Unknown 2

Such a great little climb. Slabby start with plenty of smearing and super sharp finger pockets. Next its up the tufa arete and across to gain holds on the hanging flake (rock solid). Once you are standing on top of the flake you can take a well-earned break, before the final push to the top. Back onto the arete and deep inside a hole for a hand jamb, then straight up the face to DDB.

Set by jason hayes, 1995

FA: jason hayes, 1995

Sport 12m
20 Unknown 1

The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete.

Set by jason hayes, 1995

Sport 12m
Reflux Crag
24 Leaping Lichen *Lost Route*

Description from ROCK Mag #18. Route has not been found yet and may just be lost in time. 2018 About 50m L of Cardinal View Lookout Up slab to small tree, then follow line of six BRs up steep wall.

FA: Garth Miller & Glen Macintosh, 1990

Unknown 15m
17 Limestone Cowboys

Starting on the western side of the walk-through cave, starting just to its right.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Sport 12m, 6
South Wall - Cooee Point
22 Creole Cruiser

Up left past two bolts to a cave and big thread (120cm sling). Up to a rest in the next cave and then up past two more bolts to a double bolt belay.

Start: From the same belay as 'This is Hip'.

FA: Mike Peck & Laura Close, 1990

Mixed trad 18m, 4
22 This is Hip

Rap down to the double bolt belay. Good climbing on pockets and jugs. The furthest right line of bolts (facing the cliff).

FA: Mike Peck, Wendy Stevenson & Phil Dunne, 1990

Sport 15m
20 The Fat Controller

The top is down and right (facing out) of the top of 'In the Realm of the Senses'. Rap in from 'In the Realm of the Senses' anchor, but using a directional bolt on the nearby arete to get to double rings at the base.

Up a dirty loose crack on natural gear and then some nice face climbing (ring bolts).

FA: Mike Peck 90s, 1990

Trad 25m
22 In the Realm of the Senses

Up following the bolts.

Start: Look for the double ring bolt belay down from a dead eucalypt 30m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout. Rap down to a ledge and double ring bolt belay.

FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barten 90s, 1990

Sport 25m
25 Continuum

Rap in from 3-bolt anchor 15m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout.

  1. 15m (25) 9 bolts straight up, finishing in small cave / overhang.

  2. 25m (22) 10 bolts. Traverses a long way right. Ends at the lookout.

FA: Justin Clarke (pitch 1). Justin Clarke & Lee Cossey (pitch 2) late 90s, 2000

Sport 50m, 2, 10
26 The Comfort Zone

Rap into the 'Continuum' cave, and then a further rap down the orange wall to the right-hand belay. Up pumpy orange wall then through bulge to cave.

  1. 15m (26) 9 bolts to ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Same as 'Continuum' pitch 2.

FA: Lee Cossey (pitch 1) late 90s, 2000

Sport 40m, 2, 10
Ken Luck's route

Ken Luck's route - three pitches, all natural, finishing at the lookout fence. Need details.

FA: Ken Luck et al & date unknown, 2000

Trad
South Wall - Little Thai Wall
20 Lame Duck

To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

Sport 15m
22 Gilding the Lily

A good warm up on bolts with some tufa up high. Start: 50m upstream from the intersection of the red track and the bottom of the gorge. Depending on the level of water in the lagoon, and the state of the deposited silt and rocks, you might get your feet wet.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

Sport 25m, 9
22 A Tufa to Far

A nice tufa route in the middle of the wall. It has some hidden good holds.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 5 Nov 2011

Sport 25m
13 Jug-a-licious

The first route on the left just off the red track. Was looking like a nice easy line ground up bolting untill the rock turns to choss.

FFA: Ben Jenga., 5 Nov 2011

Sport 8m
South Wall - Efflux Crag
23 Brass Razoo

A good face climb on bolts.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Sport 20m
16 Hooey

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Sport 18m
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall
24 AID:A1 Celestial Mechanics

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

  1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

  2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

  3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

FA: Mike Peck, Pete Mills & John Stone (var), 1990

Aid 65m, 3
Evil Empire

The left most line of bolts is a project, probably about 29.

FA: George Fieg, 2000

SportProject
31 Obi goes to Fungonia

Fantastic steep gymnastic climbing out of the initial cave then navigates some more tenuous climbing up several shallow tufas to the crux. Starts in the cave at the left end of the fixed rope and finishes as for the final 2 bolts of Sith Lord.

Set by lee cossey, 2001

FFA: lee cossey, 18 Jun 2017

SportProject 32m
31 Obi goes to Fungonia

Fantastic steep gymnastic climbing out of the initial cave then navigates some more tenuous climbing up several shallow tufas to the crux. Starts in the cave at the left end of the fixed rope and finishes as for the final 2 bolts of Sith Lord.

Set by lee cossey, 2001

FFA: lee cossey, 18 Jun 2017

SportProject 32m
27 Sith Lord

Really good.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999

Sport 25m
28 Phantom Menace

More incredible limestone. Start as for the previous two routes for one bolt, then traverse left on FHs to groove - then up wall above. 60m rope will NOT reach belay - lower to fixed biners near cave then lower again.

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

Sport 35m
25 Degabar System

Great tufa pulling. Very awkward belay on double bolts on orange slab at right end of fixed rope traverse. Traverse up and right across horizontal break and take the right of the two ring bolted lines. Big tufa feature for most of the way, then tricky orange face to finish. 60m rope WILL NOT reach the belay on lower-off. Its much less uncomfortable to belay 5m lower, as for The Force, if you have a long rope and/or rethread.

FA: Andy Richardson, 2001

Sport 33m
22 The Force

Belay from double bolt anchor 8m along the Access Traverse route, below the orange left facing chimney. Up chimney for a move (clip first bolt inside chimney with a long sling) then FHs out right and up crozzley grey slab then amazing overhung tufa groove and flowstone wall to final tricky bulge.

FA: Neil Monteith, 31 Mar 2012

Sport 26m, 11
23 Death Starred

Amazing limestone features. Left line off the ledge climbing the flowstone corner (take care with the stalactite) then climb left onto the prow on mega buckets and then up the steep headwall with spicey finish. Neil managed to drop a large rock on himself whilst bolting this - lucky it hit his body not his head.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Shultz, 31 Mar 2012

Sport 23m
20 Jabba the Short

Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 15m, 7
24 Jabba the Hut

Right line of bolts off the ledge above Wicket. Flowstone corner and face to luscious ceiling and punchy pocketed finish. There is a single rap ring under the roof to aid cleaning the route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes & Matt, 2012

Sport 22m
17 Wicket

Short access pitch to reach Jabba the Slut & Death Starred starting at rap anchors above Polenta Pumper on Big Greenie ledge. Old FH, sling around tufa and new FH through steep bit. An orange fixed line hangs over the lower part and then heads left via the start of The Force.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Matt Shultz & Lee Cujes, 31 Mar 2012

Sport 10m, 3
29 Fluidity

Just left of the open project. The shortest route in the gorge but mega burly.

FA: Andy Richardson, 2011

Sport 4
25 Planet Earth

Amazing rock architecture. Also a way to get onto Big Greenie.

Starts in the corner about 20m upstream of Polenta Pumper.

  1. 20m (25) Up the corner past 3 bolts then left and up onto the slab. More slopes past another bolt lead into a groove (friends and wires) then up onto a sloping ledge. A ridiculous move out left past a final bolt then up to a chain belay.

  2. 35m (19) A great pitch on fantastic orange rock with heaps of threads. Up to a bolt on the slab above, then up and left to the base of the orange corner. Up this past 2 bolts. Belay on threads amongst the carcasses.

  3. 10m (22) (18/22) Steep. Climb onto the right wall of the cave and up the bulges above, past many good threads. A cave offers sanctuary on the lip. From here step out right and up to belay chains. 2 raps to the ground.

FA: George Fieg, Mike Peck & John Stone, 1991

Trad 65m, 3
South Wall - Nosferatu Wall
24 Superfluid
  1. 30m (24) Same as 'Nosferatu' pitch 1.

  2. 50m (22) Up and left past the bolts to a ledge. Up a flake crack for a few moves before trending slightly right up a slab. Follow the bolts over some bulges (crux) with friends also handy in the pockets. Belay at the chains in the orange cave at the base of the steep wall.

  3. 40m (24) Follow the bolts past some great holes, kneebars and no hands rests. A really good pitch. Belay at the chains.

FA: Julie Styles, Mike Peck, Ken Luck & Kieran Lawton, 1998

Trad 120m, 3
25 Nosferatu
  1. 30m (24) Up past three bolts to a hard move rightwards and up into the crack. Up to a double bolt belay.

  2. 50m (21) Up and left past bolts to a ledge. 'Superfluid' goes up and right from here, 'Nosferatu' up and left. Climb up the slabs on natural gear, with several long runouts. Belay left of the apex of the steep black wall.

  3. 40m (25) (25M1) Up past a sprinkling of bolts. Hard and runout. Natural belay. To abseil move 15m right to chains on 'Superfluid'.

FA: Mike Peck & Tony Barten Early 90s, 2000

Trad 120m, 3
South Wall - Main
24 Albino

An exhilarating and technical adventure. Once the easiest way to the top (!) but tougher and more serious than some of its neighbours (e.g. Evolution). Cleaned and rebolted in 2020, each pitch ends at double rings. New hardware generously donated by climbinganchors.com.

Take a set of wires, a set of cams (#0.3 to 3), slings and at least 14 draws. A second #3 cam is nice to have but not essential for the first pitch of Siblings Of The Sun and for finishing up White Noise (highly recommended). DOUBLE ROPES are essential due to zig-zagging long pitches.

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings pitch 1.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings pitch 2.

  3. 45m (20) Another traverse. Head directly right from the DBB. Crash through the trees and charge hard right along the vegetated ledge to its very end, ignoring the old bolted lines going up. Clip the bolt that's tucked away on the right-hand side of a small prow then follow the delightful line of pockets and jugs past 2 more bolts and gear.

  4. 20m (22) Upward progress at last. Pull a hard move off the belay (think tall thoughts) then follow the line through the bulge on immaculate grey rock. Bolts and gear.

  5. 30m (23) An engaging and high-quality pitch that crosses a band of slightly poorer rock. Take care. Bolts plus a couple of optional finger-sized cams in the first 10m.

  6. 50m (24) The mega pitch with a bit of everything! Weave your way up the slab to the giant semi-detached flake. DO NOT place gear behind it. Follow the flake to the left-facing corner. Easily up this until you can traverse back left to the line of 4 bolts. Up this then right along the sloping ledge (careful of loose rock) to the commanding belay. Bolts and gear.

  7. 45m (22) A respectable pitch. Trend right up the steep wall with 3 bolts then head back left up the vegetated line past another bolt to the top. Bolts and gear.

FA: Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell, 1991

Trad 240m, 7
23 White Noise

A classy alternative to the last pitch of Albino. Clip the bolt directly above the belay at the top of Albino pitch 6, ooze up the gash then follow the technical and airy line to the top. Hand to fist sized cams in the crack then all bolts to a DBB. Exit by traversing right to the DBB at the top of Albino pitch 7.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Damian Jovanovic & Duncan Hunter, 5 Sep

Mixed trad 35m, 11
25 Medusa

Takes a line between 'Siblings Of The Sun' and 'Albino'. Start as for Siblings. All bolts, no gear or brackets required. Follow the Penumbra Variant from the top of Pitch 2 of Siblings. 'Medusa' starts from the tree belay between the two climbing pitches of the Penumbra Variant.

  1. 15m (18) Trend up and right from the tree belay, delicately up the slab to the base of the short wall. Up the wall exiting slightly left to belay on the ledge (down and right from the Green Ledge).

  2. 20m (24) Pull onto a ramp and follow it up and right. Follow bolts up the wall to a long move left to a good hold. Up again until the climbing eases at the base of a flake. Belay at the top of the flake.

  3. 50m (25) Up the wall. Details to be advised.

  4. 30m (24) From the belay head up gorgeous steep orange stone until a move right brings you onto a ramp. Care required, a lot of loose small stuff. Up the ramp for a few moves, then follow bolts right onto the wall and up shaley stuff until another big move right gives good holds. Belay on the edge of the abyss.

  5. 10m (10) Scramble past a couple of bolts to the top.

FA: Robyn Cleland & Vera Wong, 2000

Sport 130m, 5
19 The Penumbra Variant

An easier alternative to the 3rd pitch of Siblings of the Sun.

Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right 20m to belay off the last tree.

  1. 25m (19) Wall climbing and jug hauling past 6 bolts to a chain.

  2. 20m (17) Up the corner past 5 bolts and some wires to the ledge.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull & Tony Barten, 1989

Trad 45m, 2
24 Siblings Variant pitch 2

(24/25) From the 1st belay at the top of the spike. Instead of heading up and right across the slabs, head straight right following the bolts through the overhang. Continue right on natural gear to the belay.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

Trad 40m
26 Siblings Of The Sun
1 22 35m
2 21 40m
3 23 45m
4 22 35m
5 21 30m
6 24 35m
7 26 15m
8 18 20m

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires. A second blue camalot (or a big hex) makes the first pitch more comfortable, but you won't need it higher up.

  1. 35m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

  2. 40m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge.

  3. 45m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

  4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

  5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

  6. 35m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

  7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

  8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell, 1989

Mixed trad 260m, 8, 61
24 Andrew's Arête

An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Great climbing and eases off a lot after the first bolt. The route takes the sharp bolted arête 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1, starting on its right side then switching to the left.

FFA: Steve Monks early 90s, 1990

Sport 35m
27 Overture to the Sun

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).

  1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

  3. -m (23)

  4. -m (23)

  5. -m (24)

  6. 25m (25) The first 10m is a bit of a contrived squeeze onto Siblings, with rotten bolts and rock which was only ever spot cleaned.

  7. 25m (27) Also great. The only headwall route which is on til the very top. Rebolted recently (2015), so until p6 is fixed its an excellent single pitch rap-in option. All bolts with 1 or 2 optional bits of trad.

FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000

Trad 75m, 7
30 Flaming Galah
1 24 25m
2 21 40m
3 19 30m
4 24 25m
5 26 50m
6 30 30m
7 27 30m

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

  1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

  2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

  3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

  4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

  5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

  6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

  7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

FFA: Jan (Czech)

FA: Chris Warner, 2006

Sport 230m, 7
25 The Bridge to Total Freedom
1 22 20m
2 23 35m
3 19 20m
4 22 28m
5 24 35m
6 22 25m
7 25 30m

A Bungonia mega-route.

Start at the large R-facing flakes in the chasm. 10m right of Evolution, and a few metres left of Andrew's Arete / left and round the corner from Siblings.

Gear: single set of nuts; #0.3 Camalot (or green Alien or #1 Mastercam) to #3 Camalot, (optional: doubles to #1 Camalot); 120cm sling; several 60cm slings; 15 or so quickdraws.

  1. 20m 22. Smashing warm-up. Overhanging layback flakes up to hard moves then easy slab to DBB. 5 bolts plus threads and gear. An easier but lower quality varient traverses in from the left on the huge flake.

  2. 35m 23. Slabby pitch with hard crux. Shares first 5m of pitch with Jumpmaster. After second bolt, follow rightwards branch of bolts. At the top of pitch, head for the large tree atop the 2m vertical step (bit of loose rock here). DBB behind the large tree. 10 bolts plus gear.

  3. 20m 19. Start 3m right of the belay. Boulder the overhang past two bolts. Traverse right above the bolt to a hollow crack with large flakes and threads (shared with 'Reason for Man'). Straight up to DBB on ledge. 2 bolts, gear including several threads.

  4. 28m 22. Excellent pumpy climbing. Follow line of spaced bolts with good gear in between (take it all for this pitch). 8ish bolts

  5. 35m 24. Cool, tricky climbing straight off the belay then step right to gain incipient crack and gear. Up to a section of easy choss (120cm thread in small cave). Traverse right on fantastic pockets (save #3 camalot) till the climbing eases. Up to DBB on the right edge of the huge cave (beware of loose scree in cave). 7 bolts and gear.

  6. 25m 22. Good pitch on red rock. From the right edge of the cave traverse right a couple of metres then wander up cracks and face to semi-hanging DBB on the left. Lots of bolts and gear.

  7. 30m 25. Steep, pumpy pitch with a couple of good rests. Step left from the belay then follow the bolts into the stratosphere. 11 bolts plus a couple of nuts and finger-sized cams.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, Chris Ling, Carl Godfrey, Nick Herrald & Sarah Truscott, 2015

Mixed trad 190m, 7, 48
20 Storm Front

Storm Front basically runs to the right of Evolution. Nasty loose blocks on ledges, very dirty rock, and vegetation filled cracks are the selling points of this gem. The climb either starts up Evolution, or 5m right (up the horrible hole thing), no idea which start is correct. On pitch 1 there is a 10m wide, delicate, rock arch/flake that you actually climb through (about 40m up, can be seen from the creek bed). "The last two pitches are not recommended" (first ascentionists)....a more objective view might be that the last seven pitches are not recommended!

  1. 45m (20) Up the flake?, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.

  2. 40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear (seriously scary stuff here. Loose blocks, dirty rock, and vegetated cracks). Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.

  3. 40m (20) Follow up the crack.

  4. 40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave (probably the same as Red Heat here).

  5. 35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.

  6. 40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.

  7. 30m (10) Continue easily to the top.

FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts late '80s, 2000

Trad 270m, 7
25 Jump Master
1 19 15m
2 21 40m
3 22 45m
4 22 50m
5 23 20m
6 25 30m

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

  1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

  2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral, for obvious reasons!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear.

  3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear.

  4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts.

  5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

  6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear.

FFA: Andrew Bull early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: John Fantini early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Chris Ling, Oliver Story, Daniel Fisher (work experience kid), Sarah Truscott & P1-4, 2015

Mixed trad 200m, 6, 60
25 Jump Master
1 19 15m
2 21 40m
3 22 45m
4 22 50m
5 23 20m
6 25 30m

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

  1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

  2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral, for obvious reasons!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear.

  3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear.

  4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts.

  5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

  6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear.

FFA: Andrew Bull early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: John Fantini early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Chris Ling, Oliver Story, Daniel Fisher (work experience kid), Sarah Truscott & P1-4, 2015

Mixed trad 200m, 6, 60
25 Jump Master
1 19 15m
2 21 40m
3 22 45m
4 22 50m
5 23 20m
6 25 30m

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

  1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

  2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral, for obvious reasons!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear.

  3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear.

  4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts.

  5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

  6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear.

FFA: Andrew Bull early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: John Fantini early 90s & P5-6, 1990

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Chris Ling, Oliver Story, Daniel Fisher (work experience kid), Sarah Truscott & P1-4, 2015

Mixed trad 200m, 6, 60
29 Pump Lust

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

FA: George Feig late 90s, 2000

Trad 25m
25 Flubless

Good, free of charge, training to reach flawlessness. As for 'The Other End of Evolution' to the top of the recess. Exit this to the right into a a narrower vertical scoop. Funky moves straight up more scoops and a flake until you pull over onto the slab. To finish either head straight up past two more bolts to anchor or diagonally right to Jumpmaster belay.

FA: Rikard Hedman & Damian Jovanovic, 6 Aug 2015

Sport 30m, 11
24 The Other End of Evolution

A harder exit to Evolution, without the bushwhacking. Start with the bolt ladder on the last pitch of Evolution (aid 3 bolts or free at grade 24), then head diagonally right past a bolt into a scoopy recess. From the top of the recess exit left through the overhang, then straight up to pull over onto a slab. Continue straight up and then left to join 'Pumpmaster'. A couple of long draws on the bolts in the recess help reduce rope drag.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 15 Aug 2015

Sport 30m, 12
27 Pumpmaster

Between 'Evolution Direct Finish' and 'The Other End of Evolution'. After freeing past the first three bolts on Evolution P7 take a long rest on the ledge, then head straight up past 9 more bolts.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 18 Oct 2015

Sport 30m, 12
25 Evolution Direct Finish

An aesthetic and fitting finish to Evolution for those seeking a little more action at the end of the day. Originally climbed onsight due to poor route finding with insufficient gear. A subsequent repeat ascentionist of the pitch however found an additional placement making it quite reasonable. Be sure to take a thin spectra/dyneema sling. Climb as for Evolution pitch 7 for the first 3-4 bolts as they head through the initial boulder problem and then leftward. From the short section of grey tufas and cam placements, continue straight up in the direction of a lone bolt 5m above. From this bolt traverse right along a thin break with delicate moves to finish up the low angled terrain and corner (now shared with Pumpmaster).

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

Mixed trad 40m, 6
24 Evolution
1 15 15m
2 22 30m
3 21 35m
4 23 25m
5 22 30m
6 24 25m
7 23 55m

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of cams (0.3 to 2), a set of wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

  2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, traverse right to the diagonal overlap, then step back left to a hidden jug (0.5/0.75 cam) and tricky mantle, up to a small ledge with DFH.

  4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Up the corner to great cams, now diagonally right across the steep face past 11 bolts and a zillion diagonal pockets, then span right to a short blocky corner with a DBB on top.

  5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts delicately up the groove and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 10 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

  6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left arete of the cave, then angle back right and up on big pumpy holes on fantastic orange rock (the line of rustier bolts heading up then R through steep ground is Pump Lust). Mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2/3 cam near the top. TBB.

  7. 55m (23 M1/25) Up and left past three bolts to a ledge, pulling on a couple to reach a jug. The bolts above and right are for various good but harder alternate finishes. Instead trend up and left, past a small tree and around the arête to join a bridging corner for 10m, then a dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off (55m), the casuarinas are unreliable.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley & Greg James., 1997

Mixed trad 220m, 7, 55
25 Aurora

As per 'Evolution' to double bolt belay end pitch 3.

Start: Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 1.

  2. 35m (22) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 2.

  3. 40m (21) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 3.

  4. 25m (18) Easily up slab past 'Evolution' and 'Scorpion' to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay.

  5. 40m (24) 'Steep' but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance.

  6. 30m (24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of 'Old and Grey', 'Scorpion' & 'Storm Front'. DRB belay

  7. 30m (25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. 'Steep' slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay.

  8. 20m (19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.

FA: M Wilson & J Clark, 2001

Trad 240m, 8
22 Red Heat

Start: Starts just left of 'Evolution'.

  1. 45m (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3m, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4m and up to a big tree.

  2. 45m (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10m to gain a ramp heading up and right. Scramble up the ramp until where it steepens (wires) move right, then back left (1 friend) and up to double bolt belay at wobbly tree (shared with 'Evolution' pitch 3).

  3. 25m (21) Move 4m right and slightly down until under steep corner. More strenuously up corner/groove to a small orange cave (bolt belay shared with 'Jump Master').

  4. 50m (20) Head out leftwards from cave and to the top of a block (the DBB at the top of 'Evolution' pitch 4). Leave the bolts of 'Evolution' to your left, and head up to rightwards traverse on pocketed break with good friends (crossing the mixed line of 'Jump Master'). Head upwards again at thin crack which leads to a left facing flake-corner. Slab out a couple of meters at the top to mantle loose rock into the "big cave".

  5. 12m (12) Exit carefully right from the big cave, traverse right along sloping ledge, then up 5m a small cave at the foot of the steep groove.

  6. 25m (21) Up the overhanging groove on fantastic holds to chimney. Continue up to small ledge on left side. Move left 2m and up to the hanging belay on bomber nuts (big hexes useful)

  7. 40m (22) The 'Master Blaster' pitch. Enjoyable climbing with a dash of exposure. Reminiscent of the popular 22's at Upper Shipley. Climb the juggy groove/crack to its end, then cut loose leftwards on big holds. Continue up a couple of bodylengths to a sit-down rest in a small cave. Exit the cave diagonally up and right past a couple of big threads to easier ground. (take a double rack and lots of slings for this pitch)

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1990

FFA: First claimed ascent of top pitch, Chris Ling, Damian Jovanovic & May have been freed earlier, Oct 2016

Mixed trad 240m, 7, 1
22 Red Heat

Start: Starts just left of 'Evolution'.

  1. 45m (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3m, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4m and up to a big tree.

  2. 45m (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10m to gain a ramp heading up and right. Scramble up the ramp until where it steepens (wires) move right, then back left (1 friend) and up to double bolt belay at wobbly tree (shared with 'Evolution' pitch 3).

  3. 25m (21) Move 4m right and slightly down until under steep corner. More strenuously up corner/groove to a small orange cave (bolt belay shared with 'Jump Master').

  4. 50m (20) Head out leftwards from cave and to the top of a block (the DBB at the top of 'Evolution' pitch 4). Leave the bolts of 'Evolution' to your left, and head up to rightwards traverse on pocketed break with good friends (crossing the mixed line of 'Jump Master'). Head upwards again at thin crack which leads to a left facing flake-corner. Slab out a couple of meters at the top to mantle loose rock into the "big cave".

  5. 12m (12) Exit carefully right from the big cave, traverse right along sloping ledge, then up 5m a small cave at the foot of the steep groove.

  6. 25m (21) Up the overhanging groove on fantastic holds to chimney. Continue up to small ledge on left side. Move left 2m and up to the hanging belay on bomber nuts (big hexes useful)

  7. 40m (22) The 'Master Blaster' pitch. Enjoyable climbing with a dash of exposure. Reminiscent of the popular 22's at Upper Shipley. Climb the juggy groove/crack to its end, then cut loose leftwards on big holds. Continue up a couple of bodylengths to a sit-down rest in a small cave. Exit the cave diagonally up and right past a couple of big threads to easier ground. (take a double rack and lots of slings for this pitch)

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1990

FFA: First claimed ascent of top pitch, Chris Ling, Damian Jovanovic & May have been freed earlier, Oct 2016

Mixed trad 240m, 7, 1
23 M1 The Misfits

A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of 'Screaming Tribesman' but even more awesome and harder.

Start: Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ 'Screaming Tribesman'.

FA: Ken Luck & Andrew McAuley, 1999

Trad 30m
26 Asteroids
1 26 30m
2 16 35m
3 20 30m
4 24 25m
5 20 15m
6 23 45m

This route starts 5 pitches up the wall! Best accessed by climbing all of Iron Curtain, then pitch six of Screaming Tribesman. Asteroids starts at this belay.

  1. 30m (26) Climb directly up off the belay following 6 Us and 5 old fixed hangers to a two U bolt belay on foot ledge. The route follows some of the steepest terrain and huge orange tufa. By far some of the best climbing in the gorge at any grade. The initial three bolts is the crux but the whole pitch is very pumpy and sustained too! Well protected and easy to aid at 22/A1.

  2. 35m (16) Traverse straight left for about 20m (passing a set of double FIXE hangers at about 10m before heading into vegetation), then staying close to the wall down climb a 5m corner, passing two FIXE hangers. Keep traversing left for another 10m along ledge looking for the double U bolt belay. To protect the second for the downclimb it's possible for them to clip the fixed biner on the top hanger and re-thread once on the ledge.

  3. 30m (20) Climb past two FIXE hangers to a ledge the continue on rings to the double U bolt belay on a pleasant grey wall.

  4. 25m (24) Great pockets and orange wall climbing with many bolts to a ledge and double U bolt belay.

  5. 15m (20) Straightforward bolted climbing - at the top of the hard stuff you need to traverse left for about 4m then over a bulge past last bolt to double U bolt belay below large orange wall.

  6. 45m (23) Well bolted sport climbing - mostly cruisy jug hauling then a tricky bulgy finish. Once you top out you can either belay off two FIXE hangers or continue up easy ledges and vegetation for another 10m and belay off trees.

Above this to get back to the car park walk left for 30m to the old Cooee lookout and old fences, then follow the overgrown green track to the car up the hill.

I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking! I can't think of many other sustained long routes in mainland Australia at that length? It's gotta be 350+ metres? Way longer than Evolution or Siblings.

Bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone...

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2011

Sport 180m, 6
25 Screaming Tribesman
1 22 35m
2 21 25m
3 20 20m
4 17 15m
5 18 40m
6 23 22m
7 25 35m
8 19 40m
9 15 45m

A rarely repeated long involved adventure with very tricky route finding, some choss rock and fiddly gear. Bring a full rack, doubles of everything and lots of tiny cams. Double ropes a must, even if you are just using them for retreat! It's much more consumer friendly, and a classic climb, if you do 'Iron Curtain' then pitches 6-9 of this route.

  1. 35m (22) This first pitch was originally called 'Bob Yabbie' by visiting first ascentionists David Gilbert and Greg Coterill. Up the dirty badly protected slab to a bulge with a bolt. Difficult through the bulge, then more easily up the slabby cracks and pods (usually full of dirt) to a vegetated ledge with a bolt belay.

  2. 25m (21) Directly up past the overlap to a hanging good double friend belay at 25m.

  3. 20m (20) A good pitch. Short and interesting weaving up to a ledge and tree on the left.

  4. 15m (17) Out right side of ledge and up flake for a few metres until you can traverse hard left to right edge of ledge. Belay off two fixed pins which need to be unearthed. Originally graded 12!

  5. 40m (18) Was originally described as "interesting and varied" which translates into choss and danger. Climb directly up and leftwards on disintegrating slab to the tufa hole above. Sink the only good bit of gear on the pitch (3.5 friend) and continue up leftwards past dodgy chicken heads to traverse hard left over scary death flakes to DBB at the base of the orange headwall. Ignore bit of tat up high on traverse.

  6. 22m (23) Kickarse. A brilliant pitch. Head up the right-hand weakness on good wires and cams, going for the 'thank god' squeeze chimney rest. Wriggle forth. DBB (fixed hangers) plus a U bolt on the left edge of the ledge.

  7. 35m (25) (Or 22M1) This pitch traverses a long way right to the top of the pedestal on average rock, and then moves back left on the face above, finishing directly above the belay. Don't be fooled by the bolts leading directly up from the belay, these are for asteroids (25,26). From the top of the pedestal gymnastic moves past bolts and small cams lead to pockets out left and more bolts. Take care with the final moves (wires) to the DBB.

  8. 40m (19) Wandering. Head up the wall on pockets. Move right several metres, bridge across a corner and keep moving up and right up the ramp to a thread and bolt belay.

  9. 45m (15) Up following a corner system. Natural belay.

FA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, Dave Magregor worked on it. John Fantini, Ed Garnett made the first complete ascent & early's., 1990

Mixed trad 280m, 9, 1
22 Iron Curtain
1 21 35m
2 22 30m
3 22 30m
4 18 30m

A great route to start with in the gorge, but it only climbs halfway up the wall. Well protected and not too hard. If you are falling up it with your eyes closed try continuing up 'Screaming Tribesman' to top out.

  1. 35m (21) The start is on the right hand end of a left-leaning ramp. Up a few moves, step right, clip a bolt, up to another bolt and a thin move to a pocket on the left. Now cruise through to a bolt belay behind the tree.

  2. 30m (22) Move left for about 5m until reaching some bolts heading through an overlap. Straight up past the abseil chains and through another overlap to a corner. Some tricky moves to exit the corner on the left and up to a double bolt/friend belay.

  3. 30m (22) Move left from the belay, slot in a wire then power on up the bulging wall and slab above. At about 25m clip a bolt and move right to a comfortable ledge belay. Can be combined with Pitch 4 with 50m ropes as a full 51m mega pitch.

  4. 30m (18) A good pitch. Move back out left and up the slab to the stalactite and to some threads. Up these, then follow the bolts up and slightly left over some loose ground. Belay at the base of the headwall.

FA: Pitch 1: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt: Pitches 2 to 4: Andrew Bull & Craig Kentwell 1990, 1990

Trad 130m, 4
19 Arachnophobia

As slippery as a butcher's dick.

Start 5m right of 'Nitro Express'.

Up the technical wall past 3 bolts to a good #2 Friend. Step left and pad your way left into the crack. Climb the crack and finish up past several more bolts. Belay on ledge to the left as for 'Nitro Express' P1.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Cath Eadie & Glenn Robbins, 1989

Trad 35m
23 Nitro Express

Awesome, can be combined with Screaming Tribesmen to make a sustained route to the top. Starts towards the left-hand end of a left-leaning ramp.

  1. 25m (19) Up through the overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Through the overhang on bolts and then on wires and bolts.

  3. 15m (23) Up the corner, then move left to the tree belay.

  4. 45m (23) Desperate moves through the bulge then up the slab. Either go right to the belay on 'Iron Curtain', or continue up through the stalactites to the belay at the base of the orange headwall.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1991

Trad 120m, 4
27 Kia Kaha Direct

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto. 1/ 30m 26 Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves. 2/ 20m 27 Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish

FA: Duncan Hunter

FFA: Mark Rewi & Duncan Hunter, 26 Mar 2016

Sport
25 Air Malta
1 23 30m
2 21 20m
3 22 60m
4 25 30m
5 23 20m
6 22 60m

Starts left of Nitro Express. From the river bed skirt up and along a ledge to near its end. All bolts and for Bungonia very clean with little loose rock.

  1. 30m 23 Follow line of bolts on the right to an overlap at half height with a heinous mantle (crux) then trend up and left to DBB next to bushes. Missing first bolt but one can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge.

  2. 20m 21 Follow bolts up and left across slab then up and through the short steep wall to ledge and DBB.

    Move to anchors on the left of the ledge

  3. 60m 22 up left of first bolt then follow bolts right then up a long slab and an orange tufa 10m below the overhang. At last bolt traverse right to the anchor at the DBB on ledge.

  4. 30m 25 the Money pitch. Climb up the slab till the start of the steep rock, 3 bolts. Climb the juggy run out to the first bolt on the left. Follow very steep ground to mantle the tufa blob!. Jump off the tufa and follow the bolts up right then left to the ledge above. Long draws can help with rope drag (The tufas to the left is a different alt finish)

  5. 20m 23 Climb the steep chimney and wall to a ledge. Head right and up the gap between the trees to a DBB. Could use a bolt to climb between ledges but is only grade 10.

    Head right along this ledge to a DRBB 10m.

  6. 60m 22 follow the bolts to face crux moves and then wander to the top on easier terrain. Rope stretcher.

    Belay off trees

Set by Duncan Hunter, Michael Demarco & Johannes Friedl

FFA: Duncan Hunter

FA: Duncan Hunter & Michael Demarco, 15 Mar 2016

Sport 220m, 6
16 Strider

From the ledge up through the rooflet and the wall above.

FA: Steve Schnell, 1989

Trad 35m
29 Luminous Blue

An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond.

  1. 23

  2. 24

  3. 28

  4. 27

  5. 23

  6. 23

  7. 26

  8. 29

  9. 20

Set by lee cossey, 21 Nov 2016

FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 26 Aug 2017

Sport 310m, 9, 99
29 Luminous Blue

An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond.

  1. 23

  2. 24

  3. 28

  4. 27

  5. 23

  6. 23

  7. 26

  8. 29

  9. 20

Set by lee cossey, 21 Nov 2016

FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 26 Aug 2017

Sport 310m, 9, 99
Lithium Ricochet (Closed Multi-Pitch Project)

The route is set up so it can be rapped in from the top with DRBB the whole way, bring 2 x 70m for this. It will provide access to a large section of this wall that has lots of rock. The 1st pitch and pitch12 (rap in).have been sent and are ok to climb, but rest is a closed project. Will be 12 pitches, equaling Red Supergiant one of the longest routes in the Gorge. Pitches 2-11 are currently being cleaned and bolted so stay off please.

  1. 20m (22) Start as for Pulsar for first couple of metres then step right to smaller right facing flake and U-bolt. Up flake and wall above to small ledge and belay/rap anchors. This pitch is all bolts. 6 in total.

  2. 40m () Bolted finger crack weakness just right of Pulsar corner then slab and back into trad protected finger crack to under bulge. Over bulge with difficulty (bolts) and up technical slab to right leading flake feature and juggier wall to belay ledge on the left and rap belay/rapp anchor. 11 bolts on this pitch.

  3. 30m () Straight up slab above then trend left to arete. Up this onto wall with a hard move back left at the jugs and poor rock. A fixed sling helps a hard to clip bolt. Finish up juggy wall to large ledge and belay/rap anchors.

  4. 15m () Easy slab up and left to base of monster tufa and headwall.

  5. 40m () Stem up monster tufa right trending right then L to hanging belay, mega pitch. Will be hard!

  6. 15m () From hanging belay head up and R to ledge

  7. 20m () Easy crack then chossy easy corner going up and right to large dirty ledge. All bolts.

  8. 40m () Up nice grey and orange rock to belay on small ledge below crack and corner.

  9. 15m () Follow crack and corner to step up L at the top of corner to a sloping ledge and DRBB.

  10. 20m (22-24?) Steep face on big holds and scooped pockets to ledge and DRBB.

  11. 20m (23-25?) Some awkward chimneying and strenuous moves abound

  12. 20m (23) Small holds to start on the arete leads to some stemming up the R leading corner to the top and the final moves of bliss to the top anchors MB, LD 21 June 2015.

  13. 5m (1) Best to stay roped and sling around a tree to keep things safe.

Set by Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes, Aug 2014

FA: Neil Monteith & Richard Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only), 11 Oct 2014

SportProject 300m, 13
Lithium Ricochet (Closed Multi-Pitch Project)

The route is set up so it can be rapped in from the top with DRBB the whole way, bring 2 x 70m for this. It will provide access to a large section of this wall that has lots of rock. The 1st pitch and pitch12 (rap in).have been sent and are ok to climb, but rest is a closed project. Will be 12 pitches, equaling Red Supergiant one of the longest routes in the Gorge. Pitches 2-11 are currently being cleaned and bolted so stay off please.

  1. 20m (22) Start as for Pulsar for first couple of metres then step right to smaller right facing flake and U-bolt. Up flake and wall above to small ledge and belay/rap anchors. This pitch is all bolts. 6 in total.

  2. 40m () Bolted finger crack weakness just right of Pulsar corner then slab and back into trad protected finger crack to under bulge. Over bulge with difficulty (bolts) and up technical slab to right leading flake feature and juggier wall to belay ledge on the left and rap belay/rapp anchor. 11 bolts on this pitch.

  3. 30m () Straight up slab above then trend left to arete. Up this onto wall with a hard move back left at the jugs and poor rock. A fixed sling helps a hard to clip bolt. Finish up juggy wall to large ledge and belay/rap anchors.

  4. 15m () Easy slab up and left to base of monster tufa and headwall.

  5. 40m () Stem up monster tufa right trending right then L to hanging belay, mega pitch. Will be hard!

  6. 15m () From hanging belay head up and R to ledge

  7. 20m () Easy crack then chossy easy corner going up and right to large dirty ledge. All bolts.

  8. 40m () Up nice grey and orange rock to belay on small ledge below crack and corner.

  9. 15m () Follow crack and corner to step up L at the top of corner to a sloping ledge and DRBB.

  10. 20m (22-24?) Steep face on big holds and scooped pockets to ledge and DRBB.

  11. 20m (23-25?) Some awkward chimneying and strenuous moves abound

  12. 20m (23) Small holds to start on the arete leads to some stemming up the R leading corner to the top and the final moves of bliss to the top anchors MB, LD 21 June 2015.

  13. 5m (1) Best to stay roped and sling around a tree to keep things safe.

Set by Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes, Aug 2014

FA: Neil Monteith & Richard Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only), 11 Oct 2014

SportProject 300m, 13
24 Slope'n Soap'n

This route is the furthest downstream, about 2m left of the Pulsar corner.

  1. 25m (24) A wide bridge across to a bolt (hanger and nut missing - 2014). Sustained climbing past 5 more FHs. Chain belay.

  2. 25m (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull pitch 1 1990. Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell & Brogan Bunt pitch 2 1989, 1990

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 6
North Wall - Chicken Wall
24 Hawaiian Pack

The right line. 11 bolts.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999

Sport 30m, 11
23 Finger Lickin' Good

The left line. Sustained blocky edges and sidepulls with a rooflet in the middle. A bit dirty but good climbing. Needs more traffic!

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

Sport 25m, 9
North Wall - Main
30 Kevlar

Between Teflon and Olympus mons. Finish at Teflon anchor.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 2008

Sport 25m
22 Premonition

Start 60m right of 'Olympus Mons' at the toe of the wide prominent buttress. No bolts. Scary.

  1. 45m (14) Wander up the buttress to belay at a ledge.

  2. 50m (17) Continue up the buttress to a tree belay.

  3. 40m (22) Scary and hard. Follow the line to the steep wall right of the prominent corner. Up the wall trending rightwards on the obvious, steep line of holds. Belay at a grasstree after the wall kicks back.

  4. 35m (18) Up the slab to rejoin the very loose corner. Belay at a fixed hex up high. Rap the route to retreat.

FA: Vera Wong & Andrew McAuley, 1998

Trad 170m, 4
27 Planet Gorgonberg

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

Trad 20m
26 AID:A1 Olympus Mons

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

  1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

  2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

  3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

  4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

  5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

  6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

FFA: pitch 1, Rolando Archer, pitch 3, 4, Andy Richardson & lee cossey

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1991

Aid 220m, 6
31 Teflon

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2001

Sport 23m
29 AID:A1 Hyperspace

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

  1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

  2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

  3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

  4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

FFA: Zac Vertrees

FA: John Fantini (uncertain - pre 1996?), 1990

Aid 130m, 4
28 Jealous Mistress

Hard and sustained, start a few metres right of the overhang on bolts. Goes up 6 pitches and nicely run out at times. A small rack can lessen run outs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 2007

Sport 4
25 Dark Side of a Loon
1 25 30m
2 24 40m
3 23 15m

Starts 5m left of Jewel Box

  1. (25) 30m Sort of popular as a wet weather single pitch. Start on the grungy looking slab left of the corner to a 5m roof then pull the lip and pump on till the ledge. One of the best pitches from the gorge floor.

  2. (24) 40m Continue up on bolts that snake around, take 2 long runners. Finish under the little orange roof.

  3. (23) 15m A short pitch. Pull the roof then great sustained climbing till the semi hanging belay.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

Sport 85m, 3
21 AID:A1 Chicken Head Row

The overhanging line.

  1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

  2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

FFA: Richard Watts

FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1989

Aid 45m, 2
26 Masters of the Universe

An old Andrew Bull/Tony Barton project cleaned up and finished by Graham Fairbain. Climb details to be verified. At least 6 pitches - crux pitch of 26/27. Sport route on fixed hangers.

Please note that the description and grades are preliminary only.

You'll need two ropes to get down. It is possible to retreat from any of the belays. The rap line, however, does not not follow the route directly (i.e., you can't easily stop at pitches 2 or 3 on the way down because the pitches above them traverse and they are steepish. So best not to leave stuff you want to collect on the way down at these belays (e.g., don't leave your extra clothes etc. in the hole!).

Start: Line of hangers to the right of 'Big, Dark and Mysterious'.

  1. 20m (18) Start in short open corner and head up following bolts. A small/medium nut reduces the runout up the slab. Belay on bolts just below the first overlap.

  2. 20m (23) Cruxy. Out roof (crux) and up slabby wall. Continue past rap anchor and two more bolts to bolted belay up under the second overlap. It may be more comfortable to belay at the rap anchor - it gives a better view of the next pitch.

  3. 25m (26) Traverse left from the belay to the stalagtite and out the overlap. Into the corner to the right, up a couple of metres and head left and up following bolts. Belay in the big hole. Great climbing!

  4. 45m (23) A great, sustained pitch. Out of the belay hole to the left and follow bolts up. At about the half-way mark is an obvious thread that may make the run out a bit more comfortable, it requires a 120cm sling. Where the bolts trend right, use a couple of long slings to reduce drag. At about 35m, clip a bolt to the right (long sling) and head up and left easily to the belay.

    Be cautious rapping from here - if you thread all three bolts the rope may not pull. Rap to anchor on ledge 10m left of the third belay. Rap again to station halfway up Pitch 2, and again to the ground.

  5. 20m (25) Up yellow powdery corner system. After corner bust right to chains (don’t pull the block off!)

  6. 28m (21) Continue up corner via some cool moves and terrible rock to finish at chains. Rap route.

FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005

Sport 160m, 6
30 Big, Dark and Mysterious

1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness

  1. 36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.

  2. 35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.

  3. -m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.

FFA: pitch 3 freed by Jan (czech)

FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005

Sport 3
24 Critical Mass

Excellent.

  1. 20m (22) Thin wall climbing (4 bolts) leads to a cute belay in a scoop.

  2. 25m (24) Leftwards up the slab to a bolt. Straight up to cross the 'Strangeness and Charm' traverse to a steep headwall. Straight up this past 2 more bolts to a belay chain.

  3. 40m (23) Some delicate slabbing left from the belay leads to a bolt. Clip this and continue up past 3 more bolts and eventually stepping left to the 3rd belay on Strangeness.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1989

Trad 85m, 3
21 Wailing Cockatoo Direct Finish

A variant out of the bathtub belay on Strangeness, which makes a good direct finish to Wailing Cockatoo (or if you just want to try something different on your 50th lap of Strangeness).

P1 30m (21) Step right out of the bathtub and follow bolts and gear to mantle left into an aesthetically pleasing giant bunghole belay.

P2 35m (16) Right out of the hole, duck right under the shrubbery, then straight up the fun cruisy slab. Rap station is off to the left where the angle eases way back.

FFA: Nick Brown & Andrew Bull, 19 Oct 2019

Mixed trad 65m, 2, 10