Sunny Bay/False Cape All Bouldering57 routes in crag
First time here?theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question
Get directions to here using Google Maps.
Tropical seaside granite bouldering!
Quality seaside granite boulders in a tropical setting. A range of styles and grades with plenty for beginners, some great intermediate problems, and the potential for several hard and tall lines for those strong and bold enough! Less than a minute walk in to most boulders if accessed by 4wd. Potential for heaps more problems on the shoreline, as well as the scattered boulders along the access track and through the hillside (quality can start to diminish a little up the hill – granite gets crumbly).
There is a rich military history in the area, with several heritage listed World War II batteries and relics at False Cape and Sunny Bay. The area was also part of controversial plans for the development of a luxury resort, which were later abandoned as Government approvals were withdrawn over environmental concerns. Previous development efforts are noticeable with a long retaining wall spanning along much of the track, various building supplies overgrown in the bushes, terraced slopes etc.
A 4wd or vehicle with decent clearance is recommended (otherwise walk in turns from 20m to 900m (still easy walking)). This land was purchased by a developer in 2013. There is an open gate at the start of the track and no restriction to access. Ensure the track is clear for other vehicles to pass as other fishers, 4wder etc. use this area. Old WW2 batteries at the end of track at False Cape are heritage listed, please respect these. And of course, be a decent person and take all of your rubbish home.
Approximately 40 minutes from Cairns. From Cairns follow the Bruce Highway south, and turn left onto Warner Rd at the traffic lights 5km south of Edmonton. Continue to follow Warner Rd (becomes Pine Creek Yarrabah Rd) towards Yarrabah for 25km before turning left onto Koombal Esplanade after the boat ramp. For low clearance vehicles and 2wds, park in front of the houses at the beach. For 4wds and vehicles with clearance continue along the road. At the end of the houses the road becomes dirt and passes through an old open gate. The road splits at an old stop sign, take the left branch. The _ Boulder is approx. 600m from the sealed road, on the left hand side, with a small rough area for one car on the left, or another cleared spot to park 100m back. To access the boulders, there is a cleared area for 2-3 cars on the right approx. 900m from the sealed road. Walk back along the road for 20m and cut down towards the water at the cairn. Scattered boulders exist throughout the hillside and along the track and are worth exploring.
Where to stay
Beautiful bush camping on the beach at Sunny Bay. Continue along the dirt road and take the left hand track (1.2km from sealed road) down to the beach. The track becomes very rough/rocky here and a 4wd with good clearance is essential. There are no facilities so make sure to bring plenty of water and to TAKE HOME ALL RUBBISH. Mosquito repellent is a good idea as the mozzies and sandflies can become menacing. DO NOT be tempted to swim, CROCODILES and MARINE STINGERS inhabit these waters.
Other accommodation is available in Cairns and surrounding towns.
From the author’s knowledge, there has been no climbing development in the immediate area until the beginning of 2017.
Check out what is happening in Sunny Bay/False Cape.