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Split Rock Area

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Description

Split Rock is a large roadside boulder with a large crevice running through the guts of it that offers some short and fun stemming style routes. A couple of anchors can be found on top (used for commercial operations) to set up top ropes for these. An off-width crack runs up the downstream face offering something for the trad climbers, while the boulderers can throw themselves on some hard and steep problems on the river side face.

There also exists a condensed cluster of boulders just upstream of Split Rock, which offers a number of quality problems in a good spread of grades and styles. There are a few gems to be found here!

The downstream side of split rock, again, offers a couple more boulders.

Access issues inherited from Cairns

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Approach

Drive along Barron Gorge Rd and park at the obvious boulder (Split Rock) and 'Evac Point 1' sign on the left hand side of the road. Access to the bottom is easiest tracing the upstream side of Split Rock. Alternative access to the upstream cluster of boulders clusters can also be found adjacent to the 2nd 'Crest' sign.

Boulders are listed in order from downstream to upstream.

Ethic inherited from Barron Gorge

Brush holds. Respect veg as much as possible, wildlife and rock.

Routes

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Grade Route

Central problem on river side of Split Rock

Cave with sand line on upstream/near-river-side of Split Rock

Starting from chossy block at back of cave work out right and straight up over lip. Originally a v9 from being FA'd in rain.

FA: Glen Hayford, 24 Jan

Right-side problem on riverside of Split Rock

Traverse from CL to GL with squeeze between rock and tree on Split Rock

Begining on good holds at the far right arete, traverse left along the lip on the series of diminishing slopers. Pull through the crux at the crimps to gain the obvious flake in the middle of the lip. Tops out up the cruisy slab above the flake.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 5 Mar 2019

Begining on jugs in corner feature on the far left side of the face, traverse right using lip and holds on the face. Top out as for The Departure, above the obvious flake near the middle of the boulder.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Mar 2019

Sit start with obvious incut crimp rail on face. Up via edges and sloped topout. Lowball fun

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

A bit more pumpy than right, and a bigger move. Big foot is in.

FA: Jared Tyerman & Andrew Dawia, 22 Jan 2019

Similar start as left, but trend right and then up.

FA: Andrew Dawia & Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019

Sit start at the base of small arete with good holds. Up, trending slightly left. Short, but nice.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Work from good diagonal edges at roughly head height, up through and past good edges to slopers and undercling. Big move to jug for topout. Interesting finish! Finish might be harder if short.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Feb 2019

An extended and alternative start for Rooted Tabanidae. From the good hold at lip of mini roof, in line with where the two large boulders meet, traverse left and into Rooted Tabanidae.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Mar 2019

Off width crack through hand jams to more off width and spicy topout.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 7 Jan 2019

Start in corner with high sidepull jugs. Get established and make long move to the lip to topout.

A low start appears possible, but significantly harder.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 16 Feb 2019

Sit start matched on the sloped leaning arete. Follow arete up and R.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Sit start under the low horizontal roof, starting matched on jug towards left end of ledge. Gain the lip and mantle.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Start low, on sloped holds near right side arete. Up through blocky features.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Stand start with good right hand sidepull and high left hand jug.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Follow sloped, left leaning arete, starting low.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Traverse upstream to downsteam on good ledge using high feet (heels and toes) for V1. Another alternative is smear along the face making it a bit pumpier to V2 maybe. Is a lot easier using the lower slab though for feet making it V0.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019

Up shallow slab, starting off the left most small boulder at base.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Up shallow slab, starting just left of small tree at base. Cruisy and pleasant, nice beginner line.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Up the slab, starting just to the right of small tree. A slightly trickier start.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Sit start near right end of slab with good sidepull slot.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Classic. Stand start in middle of face with opposing sidepulls. Up into sloping pocket and mantle on sloped lip.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Start with RH in obvious slot in middle of face. Up and slightly left through interesting high pocket/pinch, and topping out on the sloped lip. A little reachy.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 18 Nov 2018

Start low matched on deep scoop in bottom left corner of boulder. Traverse with 2 big moves. Head up through Dusk/Venus.

Stand start matched jug in middle of face. Gain the sloping the arete and pull a big move to holds up high, topping out slightly left.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Sit start in the corner, low on the arete. Follow sloped arete up and L to better holds up high. A very nice easy line.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Nov 2018

Burly lowballin'.. Start sitting and matched on obvious low sidepull, towards right side of face, above the small buried boulder. Climbs directly up.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 18 Nov 2018

Start on sloped edge and sidepull. Work to edges and layback to get to topout at left corner of boulder.

FA: Jared Tyerman & Abril Cavallo, 4 Jul 2019

Super friendly and lovely beginner line. Stand start with good undercling pocket, under the roof, in the corner. Climb up and left following the leaning seam. A sit start can be added, bumping up the grade a little.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Starting as for Mega Babe, climb directly up through crimps on face.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Starting as for Mega Babe on underclings, climb through the mini roof.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

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