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East Taylor's Sport Climbs

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 22

Fixed Gear: BOLT AND ANCHORS SEVERELY RUSTED AND CORRODED

All bolts throughout the cliff appear to be severely rusted and corroded due to their exposure to weathering. Climbing is discouraged currently as likelihood is that none of the fixed equipment is trustworthy. 26/4/20

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Description

Small crag with a few sport routes and some boulders scattered around. Has potential for a lot more, just needs the right people.

BEWARE OF BOLT AND CHAIN EROSION, THIS AREA IS EXPOSED TO WEATHERING.

From the old QURANK guide: "- most L-hand side corner climb, grade 28/29. - next climb is about 2m to the R. There are four different ways to start for first 3m: ex hard (24), hard (21), med (19), easy (16). The most R-hand start is about 5m from first climb. The start of the climb is different kinds of cracks. The climb continues as a face route to the top (20). - last climb is a very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19)."

Access issues inherited from Cairns

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Approach

Drive to the end of Moore St in Trinity Beach. Either park here where the road changes to dirt or continue on if you have a decent 4x4. Park up out of the way when you reach the beach. Turn right heading east around the headland, you'll need to scramble a bit over some small boulders, after about 400m you'll see the cliff on the right, marked by the large obvious flake towards the right hand side.

Watch yourself on the rocks getting to the crag, extremely slippery if even slightly wet.

Descent notes

BEWARE MISSING ANCHORS, NO LOWER OFFS. ANCHORS ARE NEEDING TO BE RE-BOLTED, DO NOT CLIMB TEMPORARILY.

Does have potential top access, needs to be assessed.

Ethic inherited from Cairns

Clean up wherever you go, take your rubbish, or any you find out with you. Brush chalk. So many of these areas are absolutely pristine and we should all make an effort to keep it that way.

Clean and brush but don't destroy vegetation. Avoid steel wire brushes if possible, a good majority of the rock in Cairns will disintegrate using one of these.

Tick marks - ok but brush them off when you leave.

Please don't chip holds and do minimise contrived routes.

GEOTAGGING - PLEASE GEOTAG! For any route you create, or know is hard to find add in the Lat and Long in the route details so it shows on the map. Finding routes in the rainforesr is hard.

Minimise route beta in descriptions to ease onsight attempts.

History

View historical timeline

Appears that a lot of the development was done by Jari Ekstrom in the 1990's, there's an old QURANK guide produced by Lee Skidmore where some of this information has come from.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The first wall you reach from the carpark

Sit start with jugs sitting directly below the hole in the top of the short cliff. Jugs galore to the top out.

Set by Nick Murphy, 26 Apr

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr

Sit start at the bulge down and left of the gap. Pull up on all the jugs to the top out.

Set by Nick Murphy, 26 Apr

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr

The original area holding the oldest climbs here

"- last climb is a very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19)."

Easier start to right of 19. Traverse into first bolt over flake. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

This climb is on the 2nd of the Trinity Beach cliffs at Taylor Point, right hand side. Starts below flake, goes up to high first bolt. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED

Info taken from old QURANK Guide. Only mention that it's in the corner. Unable to locate any bolts on this from the bottom.

Be wary of many of the flakes on this block, especially those on the seaside face at the top, many threatening to break off soon.

Sit start at the base of the right facing blunt flake, pull up off sidepulls and stab for the flake to the left, head up onto the ramp, then follow thin seam and crimps to top out.

Set by Nick Murphy

FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May

Sit start at blunt arete below the ramp. Pull up using the pocket, mantle onto the ramp and trend right to meet up with 'Flakes A Lot Man!' using the same crimp rail to the top.

Set by Nick Murphy

FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May

Sit start at base of ramp to the left of the arete sitting on the block. Pull off slots above, pulling up onto ramp, then following straight up the arete on thin crimps to top out.

Set by Nick Murphy

FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May

Closed project

Set by Nick Murphy, 3 May

Will require bolts and tying in due to it's falling in the ocean potential

Will require bolts and tying in due to it's falling in the ocean potential

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Activity

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