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Stunning beach bouldering offering high Vs, High Balls, and perfect smooth and sometimes hardly featured Granite Boulders


A mecca for bouldering north of Cairns. Beautiful camping on the beach or rocks, beautiful rocks to match of all features and types, smooth and perfect granite. Pristine part of the Far North

Access issues

Steep track from parking bay, be sure to follow the track where it darts and not over any cliff edges. Track ends through shrub onto beach


Drive 40 minutes North from Cairns to just before Turtle cove or turn into Turtle Cove and do a U-Turn to the pullover bay South of Turtle Cove. Park at -16.631154, 145.552420 and walk track to beach. Walk along shore line North and keep walking for a max of 3.5km for all boulder problems, or max 1km South (from track) for a few others. Otherwise only a few hundred metres North to Turtle Cove for enough for a weekend worth of climbing or more!

Where to stay

Camp on the beach, or otherwise there is plenty of local accomodation toward Cairns or further North. If camping DO NOT swim as CROCODILES and MARINE STINGERS may be present annually. Be mindful even camping directly on the sand.


Take ALL rubbish away from area. Keep the place pristine.


View historical timeline

Otherwise known as Ratchet Bay


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start with left trending rails down low and climb up arete.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

Sit with obvious jug, move through slots and interesting moves and into the flakiness (extra flakey, be wary)

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

Sit start on large sloping rail. Make a BIG move into vertical slot and top out to the right.

Sit start on large sloping rail. Big move to good edge and pockets, through to a blank topout.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

A nice traverse beginning far L end of flat wall, heading to the tip of RH end. Give it a V1 for the sit start on the arete.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 Jan

Sit start on obvious edge in middle of flat wall. Move up and top out directly or finish as for Warmup on RH end.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

Sit with pair of juggy sidepulls. Up through edge on face and top out directly or as for Breaching.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

Start sitting and low on good low jug. Move into smaller holds and big move to good high edge and top out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 Jan

Start low matched on good jug on dark face. Move near directly up through series of crimps on face and good edge (beware - likely to break soon).

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb

Stand start (sit could go) and follow blunt arete up directly to good high edge and through the blank top (keep an eye out for a cheeky shallow mono). Add the headwall for a little extra headiness, or top out left at break.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb

Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb

Start to the far left matched on blocky feature with a high heel, traverse right making for a top out left of Rocket man

FA: Kieran Pates, 5 Feb

Sit start matched with obvious low flake. Move up into sloped rail and head up and right following seam, with crimp out right.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb

Match start on lowest obvious slopey horizontal rail, moving directly up through the tension on slopey pockets to good holds up high and mantle finish. Possible lower start, matched on undercling, yet to be done.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Feb

Starting as low as you can go on slopers, traverse up arete on central boulder. Move through to pair of beautiful edges before topping out on thinning crimps. Style points for the traverse!

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 7 Apr

Balancy Start, right hand 2 finger undercling in pocket, right foot high smear. Left hand counterbalance on sloper, Go left to great sidepull and right hand 2 finger pocket. Top out

FA: Simon Aebli, 15 Apr 2017

Sit start with obvious flake in middle of face, at bottom of crack. Traverse left and up through series of jugs, topping out on the left.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 May 2017

Sit start with obvious flake in middle of face. Make a long move into sloping constriction in crack, through to pocket and top out.

Start on large sloping edge, on right hand side of main face. Move directly up to good holds above lip to top out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 May 2017


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