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Summary

Stunning beach bouldering offering high Vs, High Balls, and perfect smooth and sometimes hardly featured Granite Boulders

Description

A mecca for bouldering north of Cairns. Beautiful camping on the beach or rocks, beautiful rocks to match of all features and types, smooth and perfect granite. Pristine part of the Far North

Access issues

Steep track from parking bay, be sure to follow the track where it darts and not over any cliff edges. Track ends through shrub onto beach

Approach

Drive 40 minutes North from Cairns to just before Turtle cove or turn into Turtle Cove and do a U-Turn to the pullover bay South of Turtle Cove. Park at -16.631154, 145.552420 and walk track to beach. Walk along shore line North and keep walking for a max of 3.5km for all boulder problems, or max 1km South (from track) for a few others. Otherwise only a few hundred metres North to Turtle Cove for enough for a weekend worth of climbing or more!

Where to stay

Camp on the beach, or otherwise there is plenty of local accomodation toward Cairns or further North. If camping DO NOT swim as CROCODILES and MARINE STINGERS may be present annually. Be mindful even camping directly on the sand.

Ethic

Take ALL rubbish away from area. Keep the place pristine.

History

View historical timeline

Otherwise known as Ratchet Bay

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start with left trending rails down low and climb up arete.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Sit with obvious jug, move through slots and interesting moves and into the flakiness (extra flakey, be wary)

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Sit start on large sloping rail. Make a BIG move into vertical slot and top out to the right.

Sit start on large sloping rail. Big move to good edge and pockets, through to a blank topout.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

A nice traverse beginning far L end of flat wall, heading to the tip of RH end. Give it a V1 for the sit start on the arete.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Sit start on obvious edge in middle of flat wall. Move up and top out directly or finish as for Warmup on RH end.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Sit with pair of juggy sidepulls. Up through edge on face and top out directly or as for Breaching.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Start sitting and low on good low jug. Move into smaller holds and big move to good high edge and top out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Start low matched on good jug on dark face. Move near directly up through series of crimps on face and good edge (beware - likely to break soon).

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Stand start (sit could go) and follow blunt arete up directly to good high edge and through the blank top (keep an eye out for a cheeky shallow mono). Add the headwall for a little extra headiness, or top out left at break.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Start to the far left matched on blocky feature with a high heel, traverse right making for a top out left of Rocket man

FA: Kieran Pates, 2018

Sit start matched with obvious low flake. Move up into sloped rail and head up and right following seam, with crimp out right.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Match start on lowest obvious slopey horizontal rail, moving directly up through the tension on slopey pockets to good holds up high and mantle finish. Possible lower start, matched on undercling, yet to be done.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 2018

Traverse arete central bouler

Activity

Check out what is happening in Turtle Cove / Ratchet Bay.