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Northern Retreat

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 5-25
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 108

Seasonality

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Description

Covering all of the blocks and spots north of the northern carpark. Until recently largely unexplored. Plenty of new and undiscovered routes here with a great variety of styles for many climbers. A lot of the problems can be wet at high tide but this still leaves half the crag left to climb!

Routes are listed South to North from the carpark as you walk to them.

Access issues inherited from Pretty Beach

So far none are known as it all appears to be public land.

Approach

Use the NORTHERN Carpark for this area: Pull into the dirt track located at -16.620186,145.542514 and if you have clearance follow down the track or park near the entrance and walk down. A dirt walking track at the end of the dirt road (30m or so in from highway) will take you to Pretty Beach. Walk north from here and you'll find the boulders

Ethic inherited from Pretty Beach

Clean up after yourselves, and any rubbish you find take home with you. Don't use huge tick marks, and brush your holds and tick marks off when you leave. Be polite to anyone who comes asking, you never know, they might get involved and be your next best spotter.

History

View historical timeline

Some of the blocks here were scouted and added in to the guide by Cameron Wycherley in 2018, but no problems recorded. Nick Murphy rediscovered the sector in 2020, recording nearly 50 problems in a day along with Jamey Lee

Routes

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Grade Route

Hanging with one hand jamming in the vertical break under the lip and the other on any of the nearby jugs throw up from here to follow up the weakness to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Hanging off the horizontal break to the far right, follow it left and then up the weakness to top out.

First half makes for a great campus problem.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Stand start at the head height triangle, grab the jugs, smear a lot and go on up

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start under the 45 degree face to the left of the tree. Use the flat edge right and either of the two left sidepulls, hit the flat ledge above and mantle out.

Easily recognisable due to the large rock scar in the middle of the face.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

A great looking standalone boulder with plenty of line options.

For the grovelling traverse addicts amongst us. Get right down between the two boulders, hands in the pocket where the seam turns over the edge, then following along the lip doing the polka until you get to the arete then top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start just behind the arete with hands on the flake. Punch out left to the slopers and whale out. The left hand variation to

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start behind the arete with hands on the high flake, punch around to the right hitting the slopey ledge and mantle through this, keep an eye on the boulder behind you when topping out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Grab the triangle undercling from a sit start, 'mantle' onto the face, then use the crack until you top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Closed Project

Closed Project

Sit start at the rounded arete, follow up using jugs and slopes until on top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start with the flake on the face and use whatever you can find to get up on top. Many different ways of doing this, so have fun with it!

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

The north facing overhanging block a small distance along from 'Dreams and Seams' Boulder

Sit start in the wedge of the rocks at the base of the large flaring crack, hit the jugs on the way up, top out and tell your mum how great she is.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Start seated at the bottom of the corner with hands in the juggy undercling. Using the arete and the undercling slot get to the top and make the easy mantle over the angle change onto the headwall slab.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Grab the high undercling from a stand start, smearing feet to the left and head up left of 'Clinging On To Sweet Death'

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Crouch start with hands in the crack near the tip of the triangle on the face. Go up from here onto the slab and top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start in the short corner, using the left arete and the corner crack go up following the crack and up the weakness to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

It was a very weird show.

Stand start with hands in the thin horizontal break and go straight up the slab.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start at the ocean side arete of the block, pull up and traverse left until you can step around the next arete and onto the boulder.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start with hands on the big ledge, one or two moves and you'll be at the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

The natural small amphitheatre that holds the majority of the problems in the middle of the sector. A nice place to chill out and watch the waves and stars.

Sit start at the arete with hands in the large crack, pop up to the small thin crimps then slap to the top jugs.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start in the middle of the face, jam those hands in the crack, crank up and top out by a slightly tricky mantle

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Sit start at the crack and slab and head up trending right to top out.

FA: Jamey Lee, 17 May

Sit start either on the ledge, or the ground below if you're long enough, with hands in the flake, follow up this and top out through the tree. Do not damage the tree!

FA: Jamey Lee, 17 May

Sit start with hands on the ledge, either mantle this or punch up to the rising crack coming in from the right, get over the top with plenty of grunting and groaning. Either way you do it, the mantle will be what gets you.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May

Head up the slab using small thin features past the break and onto the small headwall until you're on the top.

FA: Jamey Lee & Nick Murphy, 17 May

Running start up the slab and fall into the layback, move onto the headwall and top out. Watch out for loose blocks at the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Crouch start with hands in the horizontal break under the roof on the wedged block. Feet up on the block and head out of the cave until you pull over the juggy lip, but it's not all over until you're on the very top!

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start laybacking the arete under the bulge. Punch up over the bulge and stand atop gazing out over your lands, or continue to the top if you want.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start in the corner and follow the crack to the top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start on the jug pocket and crack, follow out left to more good holds and then head up onto the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start on the block at the base of the blade arete, use the pinch pods to start with and reef your way to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

To the right of 'Pods' going up the crack and blade. Sit start to begin and heave your way to get over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start low on the rising arete, head right and go up the crack and over the spine.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Right hand start to 'Pleasing The Paletteless'. Sit start just under the small roof with hands on the juggy triangle and go left up to the crack and over the spine.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

The far right problem of this wall. Might be hard to find a time when it's dry.

Sit start under the overhanging arete and hands on the blocky jug, go from this to the next blocky jug and pull up to the next crack and over the top

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Find this one inside the large crevasses between the blocks. Starts on a large chockstone over a long narrow cave. Sit at the base of the juggy flake.

FA: Jamey Lee & Nick Murphy, 17 May

The small alcove just beyond 'The Living Room'

DO NOT GO INTO HERE IF THE ROCKS ARE WET - EXTREMELY SLIPPERY WITH HIGH CHANCE OF BEING WASHED OFF THE ROCKS

Sit start holding the spine arete and pull up into the corner and go up over the spine.w

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Layback off the base of the arete just to the right of 'Spiney Bits'. Follow it up to the right to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start with hands underclinging the edge of the small rooflet, feet above the block at the bottom of the wall. Head left over the bulge and to the tallest part of the wall.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start using the blade and face holds, going up with the blade and over the rounded top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

An awesome problem with great moves on solid rock (after some cleaning anyway). Right in the corner near the cave. Sit start with left hand in the base of the thin crack, right hand on the side pull, then head up under the 45 degree face towards the rounded horn and then top out to the left from here. Watch the rock behind you!

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

The small narrow gully just above the Anti-Room

Sit start at base of layback arete and follow up to the left

FA: Jamey Lee & Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start with hands on the small block and punch up to the jug and head left. Descend by jumping back down or wandering over to the left.

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Sit start underneath the flake, hug this and follow up to the left

FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May

Remind you of a particular roof in Arapiles?

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

A fun wall with some easier problems on the south end of a very tiny secluded sandy beach

Sit start on large horn and go up right across slopes and cracks until you get to the tree, then scramble down to the right.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start with the same horn as 'Step Right Off' but head left using the hand crack.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start at the pyramid and follow up the jugs and the cracks to the top. Can either scramble back down to descend, or walk over the back and around.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Stand start using the rising crack and face holds and pull up into the concave depression and over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy & Darcy, 31 May

Sit start using the sharp arete to pull up and slightly left to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy & Darcy, 31 May

Closed Project

Sit start low with right hand in the pocket, and left hand on the arete and head up via the arete and seam.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Using the same pocket as 'King Of The Soft Grade' for the left hand, and right hand in the seam below the ramp, head straight up the arete.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start in the corner, hands in the crack and follow up and top out near 'Ramped Effects'

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Sit start at the base of the crack to the right of Knock Block, layback and pop over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Closed Project The base is dry at low tide unlike at high tide when the photo was taken

Sit start under the corner of the roof with right hand on the arete and left hand on the sloper above and follow up and across the weakness to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May

Open Project

Crumbly and not very inspiring

Set by Nick Murphy

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