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The Zoo Pen

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Description

The original location found by Jared Tyerman and Cameron Wycherley, each establishing problems like 'Rhino Face' and 'Rhino Roof' . A natural alcove of rock facing the beach, problems tall and short on walls surrounding a few central blocs. Plenty of sends still await here

Access issues inherited from Pretty Beach

So far none are known as it all appears to be public land.

Approach

From the northern carpark walking track turn south along the beach, scrambling over rocks for just over 100m until you come to the small overhanging roof that marks the Rhino problems.

Ethic inherited from Pretty Beach

Clean up after yourselves, and any rubbish you find take home with you. Don't use huge tick marks, and brush your holds and tick marks off when you leave. Be polite to anyone who comes asking, you never know, they might get involved and be your next best spotter.

History

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A few problems originally done in July '18 by Cameron Wycherley and Jared Tyerman and then left dormant mostly. Nick Murphy found a few new problems in May, 2020 establishing several more.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start on the jugs to the right of 'Rhino Face' on the small platform, and head up using sidepulls and edges to the top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

Sit start on low jugs on RH end of shelf underneath roof. RH into slot, before making a long move gaining a slopey nubbin, high and left on the seaward face, and topping out above.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Jul 2018

Start under roof sitting with platform and higher right remarkable feature for hands. Moves to semi jug, pinching edge, and rail with good thumb. High feet and good high hand then move to top via good shelf. Alternative grades and routes in range of this i.e. from squared off edge and high pocket and topping out left of RR.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 23 Jul 2018

Sit start with obvious slanted crack in layback position. Work up crack (find deep sections), pad thoughtfully and use a few good feet on opposite wall to topout above crack.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 23 Jul 2018

Sit start on good blocky jugs in low mini corner. Move up series of obvious blocky features before moving onto the slab, heading up and left to a high but good edge on slab. Very nice but easy climbing on good holds.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Jul 2018

Sit start on the blocky jug straddling the arete with your feet. Follow straight up the arete using slopers, sidepulls, underclings, crimps, and anything else either side of the arete until you top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May

About as soft as one too. A lot of blocks were pulled out on the first ascent requiring a retreat and use of a log to dislodge a lot of rock.

Sit start at the base of the arete left of Giraffe Arete, follow this up to a juggy top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May

Excellent powerful fun problem.

Sit start on the low flake with feet out wide left, snatch the flat crimps above, and throw for the jug rail finish.

FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May

Sit start on the two jugs on the arete and then mantle over the bulge and onto the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun

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Activity

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