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Description

Big boulder with multiple lines.

Approach

Large boulder 750m down the walking track from the Mount Macedon Rd end, easily visible to the left of the track. About 200m past the trail junction with track leading right (downhill)

History

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Was completely brushed when first developed back in the early 2000's. Rebrushed December 2017

Routes

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Grade Route

SDS the face on the southern side of the boulder (3m left of Sally the slapper). Low jug, side pull up L to a thin slot and top.

SDS Hollow positive holds, shelf feet. Gaston, sidepull top.

SDS with obvious jug (RH) and crimp (LH). Slap up and right to good holds around the arete. Consensus suggests this is more like V3 so upgraded from the original V1.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

SDS Traverse left from Tempest to the arete and up.

SDS. side pulls to jugs

SDS. Move right and up from the starting holds of Tempest

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Start with hands matched on obvious pinchy jug above the low layaway (on the nose, not the undercling/layaway 1.5m further left). Campusing out the jugs to exit is about V3/4. Quite fun alternative for when you've conceded defeat on the heinously steep start.

Standing start with hands on the lip. Originally graded V1 but a few crankers have failed to get up it in recent weeks! Could be that it’s hard to find a stylish way, could be that they are closet weaklings that finesse up much harder graded spirt routes or it could be it was a sandbag. Tough for V1 now tough for V2!

Hard sit start using undercling crimps and RH layaway. An eliminate without good layaway should be possible but pretty grunty. Differing opinions of which is easier, this or the measure sit.

Stand start with hands on the lip. Keep slapping up on cool slopers. SDS adds difficulty and style.

Great! Technical more than hard. But not easy! RH slopers, LH Gaston edge. Tension climbing to gain slope lip of the stand.

SDS as per The Measure Sit for maximum value for money. Once at lip traverse to finish up Much Ado About Nothing.

FA: , 2018

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

The original way it was done

Around right from the front face is a very short, over hung face capped by an uncleared hanging slab. Deceptive sit start on pinchy lay aways to gain slopes on lip (big jug up right is out) then get your mantle on. A Castle Hill (god’s own) mantle it is not!

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