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Back Wall

Access: Alternative Approach Storm Damage

Storm damage has caused several fallen trees to block access via summit track alternative approach. Still passable but considerably more difficult in places. Highly recommend following the walking trail to Omega Block Area then continuing to Back Wall.

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Created 10 weeks ago

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Description

Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.

Access issues inherited from Eastern Outcrops

Upper paths are steep, angled and slippery - use caution. Optus mobile phone reception is very poor

Approach

If climbing at the Lower Tier below Omega Block, the suggested approach is as follows:

From 'Grey Arete', continue walking away from the carpark along a series of vague pads, trending vaguely upwards. A very large fallen tree soon points down the slope, skirt this on the uphill side. From the top of the tree, continue slightly upwards (cairns may be visible). The pad now continues up and across the hill onto a more level area; the crag is hidden in the trees facing towards you on the left as you face uphill.

Alternative approach if coming straight from the carpark. Follow the tourist track towards Camels Hump summit, turn left on good path marked 'Danger Cliff Face' after 50ish metres down this track at a saddle (This saddle is easily reached from the other direction by scrambling up from omega block) turn right and head off the track. Initially go downhill and right then keep the outcrops above you immediately on your right. Follow this for 100m to the 50m long 20m high vertical cliff that is the Back Wall.

Descent notes

There are double bolt anchors at the top of many climbs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the 'Rev Head' block.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1990

More thinness, up the middle of the 'Rev Head' block. Trad anchor, descent is down chimney.

FA: Andrew Stevens, Mark Foster & Rob Nabben., 1990

Up the short, blunt arete, avoiding using the boulder or wall to the right. Bouldery crux getting past a fixed hanger, then thin slabbing above, past a carrot bolt with a large head. Originally graded 24, but realistically is only 22, or possibly 23 if you're short.

Trad anchor required, then scramble off left to descend, or alternatively continue up Waning Crescent. Rebolted Jan 2016.

FA: Rob Nabben, 1990

15m left of the Locris trench, between the short arete (Rev Head) and another trench (Human Hex) is a slightly overhanging, blunt arete with a boulder under it. Onto the boulder, then up the steep section directly over the two FHs, on crimps and good side-pulls. After the 2nd FH, avoid the temptation to continue straight up and instead move left over the vague crack and face, past another FH, then continue to the left arete and up past one more FH. Anchor on ledge above.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 12 Jan 2016

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the first bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the second bolt rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 12 Jan 2016

The chimney right of 'Rev Head'.

FA: Matthew Brooks., 1990

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

FA: Robin Holmes, 1999

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1989

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Summer Breeze' are about 3m away.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 1989

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988

Line with single BR between Skippy and Undertow, up to the latter's DBB on right. Little to no protection, other than the bolt, available until the last few meters.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1989

Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

I have given the route Unknown a name, because it deserves one. Start at the base of Locris just right of the Undertow Arete. Bridge up and clip the BR on the left and swing onto the face. Climb up to the BR on Brian Boru then the last 2 BRs on Skippy to its DBB.

FA: Unknown

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

FA: John Griffiths, Max Keating & Ken McKinley, 1982

Start on the face 2m right of 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2014

Start on the right arete of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with a easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors - can step around to front of buttress and clip 5th bolt of OFTM now (Dec 2016)

FA: Liam Aarons, 2014

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2007

Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'. Finish on One For The Masses 5th bolt. Retrobolted with permission of FA, Dec 2016.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 1989

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 30m right of Locris. Scramble 2m to ledge and up big right leaning flake then straight up the guts of the impressive red overhang.

FFA: Lewis Clarey & Miquel Orpella, 25 Apr 2018

Same start as 'Red ANZAC'. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

FFA: Lewis & Angelo Nanos, 15 Feb 2015

The orange arête at the right end of the caves, with an undercut start, between the large tree and pointy boulder to the right. Resist the temptation to bridge off the boulder, and instead go left through a crux start up up to a stance. Delicate traverse right to the arête, then it gets much juggier from there. At the big ledge, walk back and right and continue up the next wall.

The start can be protected with pre-placed, finger-size cams, by traversing in from the cave and using the diagonal crack above the bollard, then scrambling back down to start. (Or just climb from the cave to bring it down to around grade 16-17.)

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988

The wall at the very southern end of the Back Wall area, just before the caves if walking in via the summit track, or if walking in from Lower Tier then to the right of the main Back Wall, just after the caves and a little up the hill. Stays in the shade longer than the regular Back Wall routes.

Start right of the first bolt and head up diagonally left through slabby moves, reaching the arête above the second bolt, and then heading back right, finishing by pulling through the right side of the roof.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Sean Bourke, 11 Nov 2018

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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