Nodes in Back Wall

Unloved for years, some recent rebolting has seen a bit more interest of late. The cliff now sports plenty of shiny stainless at low grades.

Hard, short. Single bolt on the left hand end of the 'Rev Head' block.

More thinness, up the middle of the 'Rev Head' block. Trad anchor, descent is down chimney.

Up the short, blunt arete, avoiding using the boulder or wall to the right. Bouldery crux getting past a fixed hanger, then thin slabbing above, past a carrot bolt with a large head. Originally graded 24, but realistically is only 22, or possibly 23 if you're short.

Trad anchor required, then scramble off left to descend, or alternatively continue up Waning Crescent. Rebolted Jan 2016.

15m left of the Locris trench, between the short arete (Rev Head) and another trench (Human Hex) is a slightly overhanging, blunt arete with a boulder under it. Onto the boulder, then up the steep section directly over the two FHs, on crimps and good side-pulls. After the 2nd FH, avoid the temptation to continue straight up and instead move left over the vague crack and face, past another FH, then continue to the left arete and up past one more FH. Anchor on ledge above.

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the first bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the second bolt rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

The chimney right of 'Rev Head'.

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Summer Breeze' are about 3m away.

Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires if you're worried) and up right to shared double U anchor.

1 metre right of 'Summer Breeze', 5 bolts with a balancy start up to DBB. Crack at the top takes a cam around Camalot #2 size if you'd like to avoid the very slightly runout finish. Make sure to extend anchor if toproping.

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

(As a mixed trad route: Line with single BR between Skippy and Undertow, up to the latter's DBB on right. Little to no protection, other than the bolt, available until the last few meters.) This climb can be led by using side runners from the nearby bolts. At the top climb the second runnel right of the moss-filled half pipe as per Jack and Jill.

Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete.

Rising traverse for a quiet day. Start at the base of Locris and climb up past the first FH of Jack and Jill, the FH of Brian Boru, the 3rd bolt of Skippy, the 4th FH of Gary's Groove and the top FH of Summer Breeze. Continue up left to the arete. DBB, although one is a bit up to the right. Ab down Skippy best. Note: The traverse can be done 1 bolt level lower but it's easier and not as good.

Start as for Rising Damper but take the lower rising diagonal finishing on the arete then, up easily to the bolts as for Damper. The risk-averse can get a medium cam in after the last bolt and before reaching the arete.

Start at the base of Locris just right of the Undertow Arete. Bridge up and clip the BR on the left and swing onto the face. Climb up to the BR on Brian Boru then the last 2 BRs on Skippy using the groove to the right of these bolts to its DBB.

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.

Start on the arete right of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors - can step around to front of buttress and clip 5th bolt of OFTM now (Dec 2016)

Start on the face 2m right of 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor.

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA.

Shallow groove just above right side of small cave 5m right of 'Locris'. Finish on One For The Masses 5th bolt. Retrobolted with permission of FA, Dec 2016.

The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent.

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

The two bluffs at the top of the far right end of Back Wall. There is a ledge at the base covered in goat shit, hence the name!

Directly up the arete of Horny Nanny.

Stick clip the bolt on the arete and climb the deep corner 3m right of the overhanging arete. At 3m, hand traverse left to the arete on the obvious horizontal, past the "horn". Climb the arete until you can step onto the easy slab at the top. A fixed threaded sling is the only anchor at the moment.

A belay bolt is found on the wall to the right of the starting corner.

Start at overhanging corner 3m right of the start of Horny Nanny. Step up awkwardly to level of the 1st bolt. Reach out right to the good jug before coming back left to holds near the 2nd bolt. Step onto the slab above and head up and right to anchors. Trad for upper section.

The jug out right can be eliminated at 18/19.

A belay bolt is found on the wall just left of the start.

3m right of Hoof and Poof. Climb the overhanging diagonal, placing gear in the crack. Once the big jug on the left is reached, pull onto the slab above to finish at anchors on Hoof and Poof.

A belay bolt is found at the base of this climb and can be used for bothe this and Nanny's climb.

2m right of the start of Billy Butt Dress. Step onto the right hand horn and up right of the arete. Jug in the middle of the right face provides access to the top of the arete. Go left to join Billy Butt Dress at the top.

Start 30m right of Locris. Scramble 2m to ledge and up big right leaning flake then straight up the guts of the impressive red overhang.

Same start as 'Red ANZAC'. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

The orange arête at the right end of the caves, with an undercut start, between the large tree and pointy boulder to the right. Resist the temptation to bridge off the boulder, and instead go left through a crux start up up to a stance. Delicate traverse right to the arête, then it gets much juggier from there. At the big ledge, walk back and right and continue up the next wall.

The start can be protected with pre-placed, finger-size cams, by traversing in from the cave and using the diagonal crack above the bollard, then scrambling back down to start. (Or just climb from the cave to bring it down to around grade 16-17.)

The wall at the very southern end of the Back Wall area, just before the caves if walking in via the summit track, or if walking in from Lower Tier then to the right of the main Back Wall, just after the caves and a little up the hill. Stays in the shade longer than the regular Back Wall routes.

Start right of the first bolt and head up diagonally left through slabby moves, reaching the arête above the second bolt, and then heading back right, finishing by pulling through the right side of the roof.