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Description

The two bluffs at the top of the far right end of Back Wall. There is a ledge at the base covered in goat shit, hence the name!

Access issues inherited from Eastern Outcrops

Upper paths are steep, angled and slippery - use caution. Optus mobile phone reception is very poor

Approach

Can be approached from the lookout track or from the top of Back Wall.

  1. from the lookout, step over the fence and head down over the saddle. Continue on for about 50m where a bollard covered outcrop on the left marks the top of the right hand bluff. From here head down and left to the white gum that is at the end of the ledge. Siddle left around the corner and onto the main ledge.

  2. From the top of Tobin Brothers - head up and right about 5m to the white gum and the start of the ledge. The same approach can be made from the top of One For The Masses or any of the routes on the main part of Back Wall.

History

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Unknown if others have logged routes up here previously. Nothing found in previous guide books or databases.

Routes

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Grade Route

Directly up the arete of Horny Nanny.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2016

Stick clip the bolt on the arete and climb the deep corner 3m right of the overhanging arete. At 3m, hand traverse left to the arete on the obvious horizontal, past the "horn". Climb the arete until you can step onto the easy slab at the top. A fixed threaded sling is the only anchor at the moment.

A belay bolt is found on the wall to the right of the starting corner.

FA: Phil Aarons & Mark Atkinson, 2016

Start at overhanging corner 3m right of the start of Horny Nanny. Step up awkwardly to level of the 1st bolt. Reach out right to the good jug before coming back left to holds near the 2nd bolt. Step onto the slab above and head up and right to anchors. Trad for upper section.

The jug out right can be eliminated at 18/19.

A belay bolt is found on the wall just left of the start.

FA: Phil Aarons & Mark Atkinson, 2016

3m right of Hoof and Poof. Climb the overhanging diagonal, placing gear in the crack. Once the big jug on the left is reached, pull onto the slab above to finish at anchors on Hoof and Poof.

A belay bolt is found at the base of this climb and can be used for bothe this and Nanny's climb.

2m right of the start of Billy Butt Dress. Step onto the right hand horn and up right of the arete. Jug in the middle of the right face provides access to the top of the arete. Go left to join Billy Butt Dress at the top.

Activity

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