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Lower Tier

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 2,472
  • Aka: Back side of Omega block

Seasonality

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Approach

Follow the "Emergency Only" Trail west from the car park. When the Omega Block trail branches off up hill, continue straight for another 40m to reach the right side of Lower Tier. Routes are listed from the far end (Leaky Bucket area) to the end closest to the car park (Oxbow area).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the LH end of the Lower Tier, there are three buttresses facing towards Hanging Rock just before the cliff breaks down. These are reached by scrambling down below the Leaky Bucket area and following the path back up again on the other side of the first buttress.

  1. 39m Climb the mossy, slabby middle buttress (3m right of a burnt out tree which makes a good landmark) to the top

  2. 10m Move the belay by walking across the buttress to a large white tree and another big mossy buttress

  3. 33m Straight up to a steep wall with a crack. Move right below the steep wall to another bulge and finish up another crack

FA: Harley Burke & Greg Fitzgerald, 1968

On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide.

FA: Barry Russell & Andrew Stevens, 1990

Start at base of wall and traverse up and right to finish as per "Four Digits". The lip jugs are out the whole way until top out (or take VE if you use them).

Sit start with side pull and crimp, head up to opposing gaston and top out.

FA: Andy Crow, 10 Feb 2016

Stand start on crimpy dishes, big move to giant jug, then two committing sloper moves to top out. You can sit start the problem at the same grade.

FA: Jimmy, 2009

Sit start with opposing side pulls; one on arete and one on face. Head straight up.

FA: Rocot, 18 Jan 2015

Sit start the arete with high crimp and left side pull. Don't use the chockstone to the right. Fun but contrived.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Climb the chockstone. From good jugs, campus between good holds to mantle. Some might call this a bad landing and uninspiring moves... they would be right.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

FA: Rupert Freeman & Jerry Kupfer, 2002

Start in Chimney left of Grey Arete, continue up chimney, to a slabby finish. Don't mind the moss, that rains down on you with any slight breeze. Claimed to have been climbed in 2018 probably more like 1960s when that kinda climbing was all the rages.

FA: Unknown

Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully).

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slut's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow, Anthony Bishop & Julian Keane, 1994

Starts just right of 'Grey Arete'. Has recently had additional bolts added. There is some natural pro for extra protection. Has also had its name amended to something much nicer at the request of some good friends! A big thank you to “Hard Very” Tzvia for suggesting the slug theme. Charlie Creese

FA: Charlie Creese, 1989

Good link up. Original climbed SH to its fourth bolt then right (crux) to join Green Alliance below overlap. Several recent ascents have gained the overlap at undercling and traversed right to GA which provides great climbing at 23. Name changed in 2020 to get with the times. What were we thinking?!

FA: 2004

Adds 10m, a thought provoking traverse, a new gr25 crux, 1.5 grades and a pretty dicey clip to GA. As for SH to third clip (extend for drag) then before gaining layaway jug marking the end of its first crux traverse right clipping low ring then a difficult move or two to gain GA at its second hold (don’t step off... that’d be dumb). Climb all of GA, being careful not to spill its first clip (which might be ok with a sharp belayer).

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

FFA: Martin Lama, 1991

Up the wall then moving right and up at the crux. Was bolted and cleaned by Matthew brooks and Led by Micael Woodrow.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Anthony Bishop

At top of gully above Sluts Wall. Scramble up corner below grey wall then left around bulge to finish

FA: Andrew Stevens & Barry Russell, 1990

Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman & Mike Law, 1983

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. Not run out but fiddly gear that some will not be happy with. Take care.

FA: Michael Law, 1984

Originally started off the same ledge as 'No Joy', but has had a direct start added. Up the wall passing a bolt to break (gear), then up past three more bolts to chains.

FA: Martin Lama & Matt Brooks, 1992

The original route starts up the 8m mossy, juggy face of Little Jumble Gully to the ledge where Underseige & Keystones originally started. Pitch 2 is the obvious crack and groove in the grey/orange wall between Underseige & Keystones

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1984

Best way to do Keystones. Start up Underseige clipping bolt to the break (gear), then traverse right to the ledge. Follow ramp up to Keystones. 2nd bolt can be clipped from the corner on right before stepping back to the line directly below it.

Scramble up to start, 2m right of 'No Joy'. Two bolts to chain.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Matthew Brooks, 1991

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up atete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

FA: Ian Campbell & Robin Miller, 1986

Maybe the better way to do SOS. Start as for BJ. Follow the arete past 3 FHs and onto the slab. Step R and up into the corner of SOS and follow this past 3 RBs to the lower off.

FA: Daniel Brooks - In the 90s

Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018. Start: just left of Poxbow under obvious corner. Up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by 3RBs bolt to rap station

FA: Daniel Brooks & Matt Brooks, 1991

The lower arete was rebolted with consultation of the FA in Oct 2018, this still requires mixed gear. Follow the initial arete past 3 FHs and onto the slab. Up the slab past another FH to gain the little rooflet, round this past another FH then up the top arete onto it L side to DB lower off. Michael did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for the FA, ha ha!

Set by Matt Brooks, 1991

FA: Michael Woodrow & Ian Campbell, 1991

The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move.

FA: Michael Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Joy Fletcher, 1982

This was the original way 'Poxbow' was done and is still a great piece of climbing. From the slabby ground, instead of moving up to the chalked flake edge, traverse around R onto the nose on surprisingly large holds. Pull up the two pocketed bulges directly above. DRBs.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Joy Fletcher, 1982

As for Poxbow past the crux then finish on left arete (as for Blind Sox) rather than traversing right on the flake (FA Solo)

FA: Robin Miller, 1986

Start as for Law Enforcer, cross through 'Law Enforcer' through the overlap and finishing up R of Poxbow!

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991

The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so added a grade or two if you start that way.

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the third bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

FA: Probably a Brooks in the 90s

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Slit Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

FA: Matthew Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991

  1. 18m (12) Bridge the 8m of Oxbow to the chockstone. Step off and climb the L wall moving to near the arete. Select pockets carefully then pull over the bulge to a large ledge and bolt belay.

  2. 12m (11) Climb the face just R of the prominent crack-line in the wall above to a big ledge.

  3. 45m (7) Up the arete/rib on the L (as for Oxbow) , for 15m to Oxbow's small 2nd belay stance. Pull over the little bulge above and scramble easily to the summit of the Omega block. Descend - scrambling down the juggy NE arete/blocks or rap-off RH side bolts (see details in Omega Block)

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

  1. 33m (6) The chimney is climbed all the way to the ledge.

  2. 25m (6) The steep little 6m wall on the L to a large ledge. Move L and continue up the clean arete/rib to a small airy belay stance.

  3. 32m (6) Traverse L (tending slightly down) past the chimney and around the exposed arete. Step across the chimney and continue to a roomy ledge and cave.

  4. 20m (6) Crux pitch! Wander up through the easy cave/chimney to exit conveniently in the descent gully behind the Omega Block. Note the original 30m last pitch, reversed the last 4m of the traverse and climbed up the juggy groove to the top. This is very mossy and doesnt add much to the route.

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1962

Okay climb with a little bit of caving. 1) 21m (8) Climb Dummy bidder all the way to the top and then belay. 2) 18m (7) Head right at the top of Dummy bidder and make your way around large boulder. Belay behind the boulder. 3) 8m (8) Here is the fun part head up tricky wall and through the small tunnel. Belay after tunnel. 4) 12m (3) head up the wall and belay at Black Magic area and then walk off.

FA: Emma Howell, Daniel Howell & jen findlow, Dec 2016

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

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