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Description

This buttress/block has short sports climbs and high boulder problems.

Approach

This is next buttress/block along the walking track from Privy Block. This is also where the trail splits; one trail heading up the hill to Omega Block and another trail heading down toward the Lower Tier.

Descent notes

Lower off above Low Life!.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start. Head straight up the middle of the wall to topout on jugs. Is easily protectable with a spotter on the rock, or, a steel-plated beanie.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2014

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

Sit start on opposing side pulls (left crimp and right arete). Head up, toping out on jugs bigger than your mother's.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2014

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

FA: M Lama, H Singh-Dodd & R Pannell, 1992

The left arête, 1FH plus trad stuff to lower-off.

Start just right of Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block directly below arete, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil, 23 Feb 2014

The middle of the face, 2 FHs to lower-off.

On front face of small pinnacle right beside walking track before track goes uphill to Omega Block. Starts of sharp flake / jug in middle of face, straight up on small crimps and mono pocket past 2 x fixed hangers.

FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil, 23 Feb 2014

Low sit start at Arete between LL and TR using RH layaway jug. Up to jugs on Arete. Sane people will jump off before they get too involved in the jungle above!

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Probably V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use. Upgraded after several strong attempts sent packing.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2016

Eliminate with wings. Radness start (no use of left foot jug on arete) then Rad Dyno from slimp and crimp pocket to top. All moves done but still a project. Could be V10.

Probably soft if you’re tall and/or can jump... but take care not to tear your right pinky off!! Stand start at chest height slope and pocket gaston on the Radness (or lower if you’re up for it). Establish feet and Dyno to radness finish jugs up right. No popping from the ground peeps! Easy match finish. Will make an excellent problem once linked out of the Radness start!

Probably the way to do it. The Radness using foot jug then right into Release The Koalas. Very easy to spill the second last move!

Climb V8 version of the Radness (V8 if you do big foot/V7 version of TR) until R hand on finish jug. Technical sequence right to join Koala at the seam. Finish up that lines crux. Fairly long problem.

Start matched on finishing jugs of the Radness. Sequency traverse right to gain the seam at start of RTK. Finish as for that problem. Essentially a longer start.

Sit start with undercling and crimp. Head straight up the green runnel.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

I love Mikes work, but Icall bullshit and am renaming the route... Partly because this is a cooler name and partly because V1 has to be a radar grading! If give it V4 if it wasn't that I know I'm crap at upside down trenches. Sit start on jugs at back of cave. Traverse out using endless trickery and mantle to the right.

FA: Unknown

Caving! Crux is staying off back wall which is only ever inches away! Behind the start of the green room is a 40degree funnel. Start lying in slab, pull in and contort way out to the light via jugs.

This climb can sting after a while, still a project, grading needs confirmation but definitely a hard and worthwhile problem. Sit start at low life. Reach around the corner to a crimp where you can match (no foot jug, edge and slot from the radness), big move up to a slopey pocket, and continue up to a match finish on the medium edge beside the fern (or top out if your feeling a little crazy)

Similar grading to the radness, maybe a tad harder. Sit start as per radness however go left into the pocket and thin edge avoiding the holds on the right. Match finish on the medium edge next to the fern.

Start as per Man-o-war, foot jug is in (you can do it without it, makes it harder but ruins the climb) climb around the boulder to the stand start holds of The Radness (Edge and pocket/slot) and finish as per the madness

Awesome traverse around the boulder. Link The rad traverse with the koala link. Long, pumpy problem.

Activity

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