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Routes in Glenreagh for selected grade

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Showing all 32 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Fort Knox Niles Roof Area
24 Niles Roof

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Sport 8m, 5
Fort Knox Strong Room
24 Black And White

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

Sport 8m
24 Jeff's Orange Barf

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Sport 10m, 3
24 Unknown

heads straight up orange wall

Sport 12m, 3
24 (Unknown 1)

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

Sport 15m
24 Agent Mulder

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

FA: S Hawkshaw

Sport 15m, 5
Fort Knox The Alcove
24 New Slang

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Sport 15m, 5
24 Elders Voodoo

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Sport 12m, 5
24 Lewis The Crag Dog

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Sport 15m, 4
24 Marty's Route

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

FA: Unknown, 2000

Sport 16m, 5
24 Kanoon

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

Mixed trad 12m, 4
24 Alter Ego

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012

Sport 12m, 5
Waihoo Hero Wall
24 Former Special Agent

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Sport 12m, 3
Waihoo Sound Garden Cave
24 Tron Funkin Blow

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

Set: Brian Cork

FA: Doug Orr, 13 Feb 2019

Sport 15m, 7
Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave
24 Perseus

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

FA: 3 Feb 2022

Sport 10m, 5
24 Perseus Plus

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

Sport
24 Scorpio Low Traverse

The original boulder traverse. Start by stepping off the boulder at the left-most good pockets (as per the start of Event Horizon). Traverse right (tricky at first) and continue low all the way to finish up the start to Arty's Project (to the jug by the first bolt). The flake in the middle can seep, but the wet hole can be avoided by going high (as per the High Traverse) and then dropping down to the 'porthole' before the final crux - only slightly easier. Crux is the final crimpy section to get the sidepull on Artie's start.

FA: 7 Sep 2021

Boulder 15m
24 Aller Retour

Silliness but a good warm-up. Climb Scorpio Low Traverse to the bolt, then reverse Scorpio High all the way back to the start. Bragging rights for multiple laps.

Boulder
24/25 Voyager

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

FA: AR, 17 Apr 2023

Sport 25m
Waihoo Deliverance Area
24 Iago

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

FFA: Alan Ezzy

Set: Alan Ezzy

Sport 32m, 8
Waihoo 354
24 Swindled

Batman start on first bolt, or free the fun start move at much the same grade. Up tending right to climb the beautiful feature.

Unknown 18m
Never Never Lost Boys Hideout Wall
24 Astro Boy

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 35m
Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall
24 Ponic

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

Mixed trad 1
24 Captain Fantastic

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

FA: Leon Gray & Toby Holmes

TradProject 2
24 Strong Like Bull

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Set: Peter Higgs

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2011

Sport 20m
The Scones Kremnos Boulder
V4 Mini Ninja

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

Boulder 4m
The Scones The Alcove
V4 Anti Power

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

Boulder 4m
The Scones Graniteish Bloc
V4 Have a Blow Job Boys

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

FFA: Artie Schultz

Boulder 3m
Wonderland Canine Wall
24 Stairway To Heaven

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Mixed trad 25m, 4
Wonderland Whipping wall
24 Indecent Proposal

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

Sport 15m, 3
Obscurity Wall
24 Time Thief

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

Sport 15m, 6
Solinari Main Wall
24 Third Line

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

Sport 18m

Showing all 32 routes.

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