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70m left and down from Lanky Dick and the Love Hole. Near the lowest point on the buttress. 1st pitch (15m): Wide crack to tree. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow line, mainly on face holds. 3rd pitch (15m): Stay in line to large ledge. Walk 40m left to below orange wall and roof. 4th pitch (38m): Up loose corners and grooves. 5th pitch (10m): Crux. Traverse right below orange wall and up steep chimney. 6th pitch (15m): Finish off the chimney and wander up choss to top.

Ethic: inherited from Nymboida Gorge

There are bountiful possibilities for new routes. Up to this point no bolts have been placed in this area as sufficient natural protection has been available. The area is within Nymboi-Binderay National Park so it would be best to discretely check with the latest policies for bolting within National Parks.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: T. Waters & S. Goode, 1996


Located in Mushroom Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -30.093853,152.734221

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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