Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Horse Paddock Boulders | |||||
V2 | Spagnum
sit start problem on thin crack on left near "cave" to mossy topout | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Vampires Fang
Small sloper traverse on wedge shaped boulder to the right of main group. Sit start on distinctive fang then up and right to arete topout. FA: Stu & Mike, 2009 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Peeling Onions (sit start)
On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route just right of Here's Lucy on back of boulder. | ||||
V1 | Here's Lucy (sit start)
On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route on short overhung face of LHS facing fire trail. | ||||
V2 | ★ #78
| 4m | |||
V5 | ★ 77 sit start
Sit start and grunt your way up along the arete and using a few oppositional holds. FA: David Nott | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ #77
Stand start the arete. | 4m | |||
V0 | #76
A nice little jaunt onto a jug. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ #75
SlabLyfe. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ #74
Undercling on smears and up. Left hand closer to V1, right hand more like V2. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ #73
Cute little climb with a few suspect flakes. Sit start out right on rounded side pulls and head left onto good footholds and easily topout. | 3m | |||
★ #72 no hands
Is it a climb if you don't use your hands? Or just a steep walk? | 2m | ||||
V6 | Chipped ★★ Frankenstein's Monster
Start as for Frankenstein, head up Hades and then continue left to finish directly above the big pocket on Zeus. | 3m | |||
V8 | Chipped ★★ Frankenstein
Sit start jug right hand arete, traverse leftwards into Ares finishing up the latter. Set: Justin Ryan, 2012 | 6m | |||
V4 | Chipped ★ Hades RH Variant
Same sit start as Hades, then trend right to arete, heel hook up and edge your way onto positive holds around the blunt arete. Top out from there. | 3m | |||
V6 | Chipped ★★ Hades
Sit start on low side-pulls then straight up using pockets and edges to slopey top out. | 3m | |||
V8 | Chipped ★★ Zeus
Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout. Set: Justin Ryan, 2008 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★ Horse Stories
Sit start at Ares, traverse right and then finish up Hades. FA: Nick White, 4 Jul 2021 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Ares
Sit start, climb vague corner and top out. Watch your back. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ #69
In between the chipped climbs. Quite overhung climbing on sloped holds. Watch your back. | 3m | |||
V8 | Chipped ★ Diesel Power
Sit start using left side pull and right chipped two finger pocket. Climb bulge and top out. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★ Nuclear Power
Diesel Power without the chipped holds. Sit start using right hand gaston and left hand on vague arete. Climb bulge and top out. No stacking pads. FA: Bevan Ashby, 29 May 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | Steep, Chipped, Arete Thingy RHV
Sit start using LH in the right most low chipped pocket and RH on right arete. Move up right arete with funky foot moves to top out. | 2m | |||
V6 | Chipped ★ #67 sit start eliminate
Same as #67 but eliminating the two aretes, instead going from the chipped holds to the incut before deadpointing to the top. | 2m | |||
V4 | Chipped ★ #67 sit start
Completely chipped. Look for the chipped handholds. Photo is a bit misleading - it's about 60 degrees overhung and the first chipped handhold is a bit too low for most people! Starts on obvious chipped holds, then up using other chipped holds and the aretes. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ #66
A quality climb slapping up the arete from a sitstart. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ #65A
Sit start left side pull, climb face\arete and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 14 May 2015 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ #65
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Right of #64
A face climb, slapping the arete on the right. Techy. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ #64
Slabbity slab slab. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ #63 sit
Sit start to #63. Starts with left hand on arete and right hand on obvious side-pull. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ #63
Stay away from that crack! | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ #62
Another slab problem. Using the crack makes it VBeginner. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Direct between #61 and #62
Slabby and balancy. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Traverse
Start for #61 and traverse right into pure slab territory. Hit the undercling and make your way up. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ #61
Balance problem, great training for slab climbs. Of course, friends don't let friends do slab. | 3m | |||
Pony Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ #60
Sit start on left side of the obvious flake, then straight up flake to top. | 4m | |||
V3 | #59
| 4m | |||
V3 | #58
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ #57
Slightly easy for the grade - big holds and easy going. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Left of #57
Straight up, match foot/hand in the midway crack while balancing. Don't go too far right. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ #56
A nice climb with plenty of holds and a finish that really gets the blood pumping. | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ #55
Slabby V0 climb. | 5m | |||
Sun Blocks | |||||
V2 | #55
Sit start beneath right arete, climb up and top out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Sitmaster
Sit start from right side of roof, climb up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jul 2015 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ One Fine Day
Sit start from lip of roof, climb up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 18 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Up and Go
Sit start beneath vertical seam, climb seam and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 13 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | #54
A slightly more forgiving angle than the other slabs around Sun Blocks, and a little shorter, this is still no easybeat. | ||||
V1 | ★ #53
Layback problem. Bit scary up top. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ #52
Another slab, one of the more highball problems on the ridge. Could stem it. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ #51
One of the taller problems on the Ridge, this is a lovely crack, and great for a bit of practice if you're a burgeoning crack fiend. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ #50
Vertical slab! Enough holds on top - just. If you're brave you'll mantel it. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ #49
Nearly vertical slab. The blunt arete. | 4m | |||
V3 | #48
Around the corner from the best crack climb on the Ridge, this is yet another slabby semi-highball. | ||||
V5 | Ray
A fairly odd problem. Nothing for feet - and don't use the rest boulder right behind it! Very burly. A heel hook may help you. From a sit. Go around or straight over. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Stevie
Similar to Ray, this problem can be desperate or feel deceptively easy depending how you approach it - go straight up, do not deviate. Sit start doesn't change the grade much but add 1 if you go straight over without using the crack. | 3m | |||
V5 | #47
Pure slab, very tenuous. Follow the tiny seam upwards. | 3m | |||
V4 | #46
At the far side of the boulder, slab your way up through tenuous holds. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ Blind Man
Hard sit start to a jump or very high step in a poor incut off a nasty and very sharp right hand crimp. Hold it and top out. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #45
Sit start the arete. Crimpy. | 2m | |||
Split Cherry | |||||
V2 | ★★ Spacewalk
Sit start as for boulder #43, traverse out right, using anything reachable, topping out on the opposite side of the boulder. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ #43
Boulder right near number 41/42, under the shade of the tree. Straight up the arete from a sit-start. | 2m | |||
V2 | #42
Not a hugely difficult climb for the grade! | ||||
V4 | ★ Hug like harambe
Sit start with left hand on vague arete and right hand on far sloper. Slap your way up into easy top out. Harder if you're short FA: James Smith FA: 26 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | #41 LH variant sit
Sit start, climb up and top out. | 4m | |||
V2 | #41 LH variant
Direct up the boulder starting about a metre left of #41, sharing a start with the mosquito traverse. Topout is dangerously blank - you have been warned. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Full Traverse
Start as for #41. Full traverse of boulder. | 10m | |||
V1 | ★ #41
Sit or stand makes little difference. Directly up goes at a harder grade with some compression moves. Topout is BLANK - be careful. | 3m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Mosquito Traverse
Traverse left from about 1 metre right of #41 (shares a start with #41 LH variant), around to the big crack and up. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Musashi
Up the rock directly right of the crack. Standing start. Crux hold is a nice sloper. Very tensiony. Be careful of the blank topout. Slap up the arete if you wish but avoid getting into the crack. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Cream of Some Young Climb
Straight up just left of the crack. Standing start. | 3m | |||
V0 | Easy Leap
Dyno variant of Cream. Place feet, jump. | 4m | |||
V5/6 | Raw Beauty RHV
Sit start right of Raw Beauty and throw to the incut or alternatively, use thumb press to progress. Need a big reach. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Raw Beauty
Sit start from incut edge and undercling at base of rounded bulge. Climb straight up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V0 | Left Arete
Sit start from base of arete, climb up trending rightwards and top out. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ #40
Sit start traverse, boulder close to the split cherry. | ||||
V0+ | Distillation
Opposite side of the boulder to 'Unnamed problem'. Sit start eliminate - do not go left, keep to the blunt arete. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Unnamed problem
Sit start, around the back end of a boulder that looks like a split cherry, but is not the split cherry. Nicely compressive and balancy, but only a move or two in it. | 2m | |||
V0+ | Cherry Pip
Around the other side of the split cherry (#38). | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ #39
Up the side of the split cherry. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ #38A
Sit start, climb arete and top out. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ #38
Sit start. | 2m | |||
V8 Traverse | |||||
V3 | ★ Dynamic Lifter
FA: 2009 | ||||
V2 | #37
Tricksome and fiddly. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ One Of These Days
Start as for Fairly Standard Lowball and after the crux moves of this climb traverse right as for Cassius. Consistently hard moves until you hit the glory jug. FA: Nick White, 4 Jul 2021 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Fairly Standard Lowball
Sit start from low rail, climb up trending rightwards and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V6 | The Wolf
Sit start from low rail, climb up trending leftwards and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 19 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | #36
Fairly standard lowball. | 3m | |||
V3 | The Sheep
Sit start from low rail, climb straight up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 22 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Cassius
Traverse either way - crux is middle section. | 5m | |||
V1 | #34
| 3m | |||
V3 | #33
| 4m | |||
V2 | ★ #32
| 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Brown Trouser Time
Left of #32 and a right-side variant of Precarious, direct up the face using the ridge is a heinously crimpy climb going at around V4. Heel hook seems to be required. Named for one of the would-be ascencionists, who on the day before had a large curry. FA: | 4m | |||
V0 | Precarious
Left of #32, start at left side (getting on is the crux) and head on up. If you go too far right, you're headed into Brown Trouser territory! | 3m | |||
V0 | #31
There are several variations along that side of the boulder, all around V0. | 3m | |||
V0- | #30
A nice warm-up. | 3m | |||
Niblo Over the fence | |||||
V1 | Dishysoisse
Photo to be added sometime soon. Lowball to the extreme, but goes on slopers which makes it almost worthwhile. FA: David Nott, 2011 | 2m | |||
V0 | #29
Slabby and more scary than tough. Don't be fooled by the photos - it's quite tall! | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ #28
A stretchy climb - crux is the start. | 4m |