Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cantaloupe Hill First Stopoff | |||||
V4 | ★★ Memories
Just enough holds for an ascent. Hard work getting off the ground, a big move to the next incut, then you're on the slab and away. FA: David Nott, 10 Aug 2013 | 5m | |||
V7 | Project 2 - open
Technical and gut-busting. Grade is a guess. Some seriously strenuous layback moves. | 4m | |||
V2 | Slab proj
Left side of the slab. Delicate! | 5m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Glitz Rock | |||||
V4 | Without Words
Start in the vague scoop and grovel your way to a desperate mantle. Not great. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Tally Ho
Sit start at the spike (same start as Vendetta). Straight up via the corner/groove. Quite messy after it's rained. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Vendetta
Sit start at Tally Ho, then follow the break rightwards to the rounded arête, then mantle/rock over to the top. Progressively crimpier with thinner feet.
FA: Chris Warner, 2004 | 3m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Cerebro
Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker). FA: Chris Webb | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Contempt Left
As per Contempt, but topout for Tally Ho. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ Contempt
Sit start on the far left side of the underclings (just right of the start to Tally Ho), then straight up, topping out right of where Tally Ho tops out. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Dripping on Trips Left
Stand start at the big underclings, make a big move into the horizontal break and then traverse left to finish as for Tally Ho. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Dripping on Trips
Stand start on the big underclings and head to the crimpy rail for Vendetta and top out as for Vendetta. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Joker
A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Joker - sit
Per ex-Canberran Duncan Brown - the full sit to the Joker line. Tough for the grade, possibly V8. | 4m | |||
V9 | ★★ Stopping All Stations
Start up The Joker, then reverse Vendetta, and finish up Tally Ho. Not as contrived as it sounds - actually a pretty nice line. The Vendetta rail is harder in this direction. Gets V9 in the guidebook, but might be a bit soft. | 8m | |||
V9 | ★★ Stopping Absolutely All Stations
The full link-up of the boulder. Stopping All Stations with the sit start. FA: Brendon Jones, 2 Jun 2018 | 8m | |||
V9/10 | ★★★ Stop with the Stopping Stations
Sit start the Joker, climb this, then reverse Vendetta and finish up the fingery mantle of Contempt. Sustained and consistently hard. FA: Nick White, 14 Jul 2018 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Derailment
Sit start the Joker and then when the diagonal crack runs out make hard moves to reverse Cerebro finishing up Tally Ho. FA: Ashby Cooper, 11 Oct 2020 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Lipstick Lesbian
Start for the Joker, then head straight up where the rock splits into two cracks. Long dyno to the big slope, match then mantel up. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Warmup Slab | |||||
V0 | Persian Rug
Nice warmup problem upslope and behind Glitz Rock | 3m | |||
V0 | Number 5
Right hand variant to Persian Rug (#6 in CCA guide). | 3m | |||
{US} V0 - 1 | Prydain
Sit start left of persian rug on the undercling and up the "arete". Eliminate - left side rail is out. | 3m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Prow Rock | |||||
V3 | ★ Intrusion
Sit start problem through obvious basalt or similar intrusion on back of boulder and right of prow. FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
V2/3 | Intrusion stand
Stand variant to intrusion. Very height-dependent. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Ruffian
Sit start and then go diagonally left up the seam. Falling at the end would be bad. FA: Chris warner | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Spruce Moose - stand
Standing start to Spruce Moose - slap up the boulder. Burly.
FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Spruce Moose - sitstart
Sit start down on the left arete then slap out to the right side of the prow then continue up with big compression moves up the prow. FA: Chris Webb Parsons | 4m | |||
V8 | Lanky Yanky
Up and left crimping under roof then up and over. | 4m | |||
V4 | Throw Back
Long throw to crimp. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V3 | Pubs
The slab. FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Slab Rock | |||||
V1 | Another
Grunt your way up the slab on the left side right in the trees. If you can be bothered. You might get a real surprise if you fall. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Szady Slap
Traverse all the way along the slab from the right hand side of the rock as you come uphill. Hope you've got good friction in your hands! FA: Clinton Szady | 2m | |||
V1 | Peter Pan
Left of the start to Szady Slap, take a run at the slab, jump, get your feet set and reach for glory. Invigorating cooldown. | 3m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Number 15 boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Back in Black (#15)
Sit start from left of slab then traverse right and up the slab on crimps. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Slow and Low (#16)
Sit-start traverse the boulder left to right. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V2 | Bergs
Sit-start the arete. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Heart Block(s) | |||||
V3 | Little Arete (#18)
Sit-start and up to the left or the right. If you face the hill, this is downhill and to the left. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Drug Money for the Bunny (#19)
FA: Chris Warner | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Organs in Orbit (#20)
Traverse left to right then up, finishing as for 22, the righthandmost climb. Either gaston through the crux or execute a hard cross-through. FA: Chris Warner | 10m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Check Your Head (#21)
Highball. FA: Chris Warner | 8m | |||
V6 | ★★ Swinging Doors (#22)
Up onto a good flat edge with crappy footers, get yourself set, dyno out left then up. FA: Chris Warner | 6m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Heart Block(s) Second Heart | |||||
V0 | Project 1
The crack. | 5m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill Heart Block(s) The Second Prow | |||||
V3 | Vitruvian
Stand start at flake, matching hands above. Layback from there out to the edge of the slope, cut feet, find the slot and up. FA: David Nott, 2011 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Visceral
Start as for Vitruvian, layback out right, cut feet and dangle in thin air, then turn and heel hook up in the slot just before the end of the jutting prow. V4 moves up to here... Now execute a gut-wrenching mantle with your left foot dangling in the air. Positive holds. Pretty damn contrived. On reflection, it's not worth stars, but it's fun to try and mantel over the shit foot-slot. The full line is the real prize. Don't touch the ground, obviously! FA: David Nott, 2011 | 2m | |||
V9 | Project 1 - prow traverse
Traverse from the start of Vitruvian right around the boulder, heel hooking and groaning all the way. Pretty much a huge campus problem really. | 2m | |||
Project 2 - the Cave
Sit start inside the cave, move to a downward-sloped rail, huge throw up to next hold. Not sure if it's possible without hitting the rock behind, but this is one for the insanely strong. | 3m | ||||
Cantaloupe Hill Heart Block(s) | |||||
V3 | Number 23
Sit-start. Looks like something has broken, as this has minimal hand holds and small feet. Looked to be a single dynamic move to the top. | ||||
Cantaloupe Hill The Upper Ridge | |||||
V1 | ★ Number 1
Sit start. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Jayenne
Stand start from the bottom of the boulder. After gaining your feet, a fair sized dynamic move out left from smears will get you to the glory rail, and then finish as for #1. FA: David Nott, 2011 | 5m | |||
V0 | Number 2
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Nice Guys Finish Last
Slab. FA: Chris Warner | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ O'Ren Ishi
Sit start. Traverse left then up. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V4 | ★★ Cotten Mouth
Sit start then over onto slab. FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Rumspringa
Sit-start up the arete. Quite overhung. A great quality climb well worth the walk up to this sector just by itself. Low in the grade. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Fraud Landis
Sit start then traverse left onto slopes from Rumspringa. FA: Andrew Bull | ||||
V5 | ★★ Rumspringa stand
Seems about the same as Rumspringa as the crux balance move is in the stand, but doesn't include the heel hook above the head. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ QJ WIN
Crimp and dyno. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V2 | ★ Nearly
Sit start. FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Mantle
Sit start. FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Blue Jeans
Sit-start then mantle. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ More moss
Sit start. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V7 | ★★ Blood Makes Noise
Start with hand jam between blocks then into crack, pull lip and up right. FA: Robert Lange | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Scream
Start with a hand jam between blocks and then into crack, head straight up and dyno. FA: Andrew Bull | ||||
Cantaloupe Hill Sundries | |||||
V2 | Dren
Sit start, grabbing either side of the prow. Work your way up and top out - average feet all the way. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V2 | Soot
Layback the flake to the left up onto the boulder, then top out to the right. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V3 | Rarze
Sit start. Up to the top of the first boulder, then head straight up and slightly left over the second. Once on top, downclimb round to the left. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V2 | Tauris
Sit start as per #3. Once at the top of the first boulder, follow the seam up and right. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
Flicking your switch
In front of problems 3 and 4, accessed under the huge burnt tree. Difficult and blank looking layback up and left to a tricky top out. | |||||
V0 | ★ Chime
Sit start. Up the broken corner using many different features. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Its daddy you shit head
Sit start round to the right. Follow the good layback flake up and left round the tock, and top out straight up once at the 'ledge'. Downclimb over the back. FA: Clinton Szady | ||||
V3 | ★ Dance for daddy
Mantle up, starting off the block. Awkward ledge, then top out straight up. Downclimb off the back. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
Cantaloupe Hill The Ice Blocks | |||||
V0 | ★ More
Sit start. Up crack in corner, trending right and round onto the top. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V4 | ★★ Born-again Hooligan
Sit start up to a big sloper then up to a good edge on top. Easy top out and down climb. GPS (approx): -35.477682, 148.928839 FA: Chris Warner | 3m | |||
V5 | Crete it
Sit start then up left, staying on the main block (don't escape up the crack between the boulders). FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V4 | Skullduggery
Sit start as per #3. Big throw right to a jug, then up to the top. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Aspen Armor
Hard sit start up to break, then head up ledges to top. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Skills to Pay the Bills
Sit start as per #5 to break, then traverse right on slopers to the end of the break, then head up to top. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V3 | ★ Stone Cutter
Start at the bottom right, move left to the arete and up. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
V5 | Price Check
Sit start up the arete, then top out. FA: Chris Warner | ||||
Cantaloupe Hill Lost World | |||||
V6 | ★★★ One Undisclosed Period in Paradise
A solid walk for a decent problem. Sit start on obvious large flat flake to high but easy top out. To get off the top, move left and jump off onto mats. | 5m | |||
Egg Project
Squat start from low diagonal undercling holds (forms an acute upside down triangle). Big pull to sloper on the lip followed by a big tension move out left to the positive arete and an easy top. Will be all time when it goes. Likely double digits. | |||||
Lip Project
Left to right rising lip traverse. | |||||
Cantaloupe Hill The Hand | |||||
V3 | ★★ Cute Kill
Sit start from the cave up holding onto a big flake. Compressive move to start. FA: Chris Warner | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Pinky Cling
Contrived sit start. 6 metres, but an easy terrain crack up top. FA: Chris Warner | 6m | |||
V0 | Kerl
Straight up a mossy crack. Nothing difficult. FA: Chris Warner | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Thumb Mantle
Sit start. Good mantle practice. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V0 | Middle Finger
Up the right side of the palm. Easy terrain. FA: Chris Warner | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ Tickler
Sit start. The hardest V3 in the entire world? FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Skin end
Up the side of the boulder using layback-type moves. Hard work to get your feet on top. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | |||
V0 | #7 RH variant
Good warmup for the burlier #6-7. | 4m | |||
V1 | Divagation
It really is a word. Sit start at the opening of the cave around the corner and uphill a few metres from #7. Start on positive holds, then find the hidden hold up high to progress. The boulder behind is in - it's a cross between a chimney climb and a face climb! | 3m | |||
V0- | Mellifluous
Small boulder on the way in to the hand. Warm-up sit start. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Trichiasis
Sit start for the V3, then exit out the roof and up the vertical slab. Direct might be a fair bit harder if you're willing to huck a huge dyno - not sure it's viable. FA: David Nott, 2011 | 5m | |||
Cantaloupe Hill | |||||
V0 | Number 24
| ||||
George's Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Call Girls
Sit start to the far right low down, then pull around the corner. Finish with higher traverse to jug. The warm up... FA: George Fieg | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ On Hold
Sit start to the far right and pull around the corner. Finish with lower traverse/slopes to jug. Desperate. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ The Tower
Sit start and up the arete. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ FIS
Sit start and straight up the thin slab | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ JAS
Start on the rail and up through a few sidepulls and crimps to a slab topout | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Shy moves
Up and onto the slab. Smearing moves and a few check your head moments. FA: Chris Warner | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Slopesanity
Reverse 1a/b from the start of the rail past the victory jugs, using only the slopers. Arguably better than 1a, slightly more fun moves in the opposite direction. Holds all face the wrong way to traverse in this direction though, so it's like downclimbing slopers! | 2m |