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Description

A beautiful cave high on the cliff line, fantastic views and great rock. 'Steep' climbing with alot more topouts following a recent localised storm that made topping out possible without aid from a tree.

© (dazzla)

Approach

The Happy place is located on the cliff line above the main 'Dark Forrest' area and is best accessed from the top. To find the Happy Place Head From Kariong take Woy Woy Road towards Phegans Bay park at the intersection of Woy Woy Rd and Woy Woy Bay (just in front of the Woy Woy Bay/ Phegans Bay turn off sign).

Walk towards the guard rail and pick up a faint track just left of the houses in the bush. Follow this trail/path of least resistance to a big flat rock clearing at the top of the cliffs where you over look the water, from here head right about 50m along the upper cliff line till you can scramble down the steep looking slab that appears on your left to access the Happy Place.

© (dazzla)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse low rightwards, cross the scoop to finish as for "Dead or Alive"

Start: Sit start as for "Happy Pyramid"

FA: Daniel De Silva

Climb the weird arete to finish on the high edge

Start: Sit start on the low ledge left

FA: Tork Viker Rise

Start: Sit start on small edges on the left hand cave wall.

FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000

Climb out to the jugs via the easiest method. Finish on the obvious deep break as for "Whats Golden" or you can traverse the break off to the right for a little extra

Start: Sit start in the little cave on the right hand wall.

FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000

Climb the right hand side of the cave tending right to the big hueco on the face. Use a low R/H side pull/ pinch thing, gain the big hueco then move up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start as for "we'll never make it out alive"

FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000

A hard undercling move gains the Hueco then straight up to finish matched on the ledge

Start: Sit start below the big hueco on the face on some underclings.

FA: Tor Viker Rise, 2000

A variant of "Dead or Alive" that avoids using the big hueco and stays a little more left and climbs then faint rib. Take the low R/H side pull, cross left hand to the golden pinch then make a hard move with your right to gain a another match box looking pinch. Finish matched on the ledge. Classic Norwegian power!

Start: Sit start on the R/H cave wall as for "we'll never make it out alive"

FA: Tor Viker Rise, 2000

Follow the low rail right, press up into the pockets in the little roof then gain the feature on the face. Move up to the break below the boulder on top by either a big move right or by using the thin little pinch out right. Tops out over the right side of the block. Super!

Start: Sit start "matched" farthest left hand end of the low rail.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Make a move up to the twin pockets then make a long move to the break. Finish as for deadbolt.

Start: Sit start on edges to the left of the small scoop

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Gain the twin pockets but press right across the scoop and finish up the mantle "Hydraulic" Also the finish of "viking Invader"

Start: Sit start as for "flip the latch"

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Make a move to the lip then a tricky mantle. Cute

Start: Start low from the obvious edge on the face.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.

As for Dead bolt but from the feature on the face move left to the bad slopers under the block (avoids the good break farther right). Top out around the left side of the block.

Start: Sit start "matched" on the farthest left hand end of the big low rail

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Climb to the jug the break left and finish up "Happy Pyramid"

Start: Sit start on the left hand side of the cave as for "Whats Golden"

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: Sit start as for 'dead bolt' and climb up into the pocket roof then move right across the buldge below the top ledge and into the next little cave to finish up hydraulic.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: Sit start as for 'Rigor mortis' on low underclings. Fire up right for the tufa feature, match it and finsih straight up to the ledge.

FA: Daniel De Silva, 2000

Climb the little prow to finish as "dead bolt" Avoid the twin pockets right or moving left low into the roof.

Start: Sit start below the little prow

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Climb the rail right as for "Dead Bolt" but once you gain the pockets under the little roof traverse back left underclinging various little knobs, make a big move left to gain the perfect fat pinch then straight up to finish at the lip.

Start: Sit start "matched" at the farthest left hand end of the big low rail.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: Sit start as for 'Yummy Noodle' Gain the tufa and move right under the capped roof on under clings as for 'Magic Beans' continue right across the little buldge, through the next little cave to finish as for Hydraulic

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"

Start: Sit start as for previous problems

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: Sit start as for 'Whats golden' but from the juggy underclings climb the short slick prow up and left on horrible slopes and pinches to finish on the high slot. Avoids the hand holds on the right wall and the left arete of 'Happy Pyramid'

Sit start as for happy pyramid then traverse left low to large span move, high jugs are out. finish as for golden pinch

Sit start as for happy pyramid, and traverse low left to large span move, not useing any of the higher jugs in the cave. Then finish for dead and alive.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Happy Place.