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Description

There are some very large boulders on the summit plateau of the western slabs which offer bouldering more akin to short routes. Explore the bouldering yourself and perhaps try the two short routes known to have been climbed.

All information from Paul Collis' guide available at CAWA's website.

Approach

This is on top of the western slabs and can be reached by walking from the tourist track.

Routes

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Grade Route

This climb begins in the wide cleft between the biggest boulder and its’ crescent fake offspring. Climb the cleft until the outer edge disappears then go directly up the main boulder face to the summit. Two or three carrots or glue-in machine bolts protect. Looks to be a tad bold even in its current form. In its original form this route is reported to have been climbed as a pure unprotected bridging route up the cleft. The steepening cleft and increasingly scary rattling fall down into it made it a bold and “never again” lead according to one ascentionist Steve Cooper. There is also a carrot and a fixed hanger at the top for anchor, but you can't abseil from that. You can scramble down the north face though.

This climb takes the obvious compelling crack in the south face of the boulder. Looks enjoyable and protectable.

Activity

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