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Description

The best crag of Little Bay. Bouldering on the Southern tip of the Cape Banks peninsula. Very scenic with crashing waves and often a nice sea breeze. Different orientations so there is always something in the shade. Bring a brush as the holds are forever a little sandy. A tiny shell beach just north of the shipwreck on the east side of the Cape is a great spot for a swim or alternatively good swimming back at the bridge (on the Bay side).

Approach

Park at the end of Cape Banks Road at the Westpac Lifesaver Helicopter Base and follow the fire trail south. Cross the foot bridge to the Cape and stay high to get to the South end of the Cape where you walk down a ramp and get to The Big Straight Wall sector or scramble down into the BRAD sector. Note that the Botany Bay National Park gates close at 20:30.

Routes

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Grade Route

Good sector in high tide and high swell. Good warm ups.

Easiest boulder that goes up the left side of the straight wall.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017

another warm-up squeezed in

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

a worthless bank...

Where the mantle shelf ends, hop on and hop to jug. Choose your choss holds with care at the topout.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

Jump start. A touch easier then the original HSBC but takes away all the fun.

FA: Patrick Burr, Mar 2017

Start just right of the black streak, head left and straight up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 9 Feb 2017

Up the wide black streak.

FA: Patrick Burr, 9 Feb 2017

Up the black streak just right of the wide black streak. Slight highball, but gets progressively easier.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 9 Feb 2017

Good sector even at high tide and large swell.

Stand start on left jug around corner and slot on face.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 21 Nov 2016

Start down low on two incut edges then come out and over avoiding jug to the left used for st George start

FA: Joshua hardy, 29 Jan 2017

Start as for Suncorp, go into left jug start of St George and finish up and left on face. Bit sandy on the left arete.

FA: Simon Li, 11 Apr 2017

Sitstart left hand as Suncorp, right hand up and around corner. Up to follow the arete. Bit awkward.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Mar 2017

Around the corner heading towards the ocean (East) past ABN AMRO you find the following problems on a large overhanging boulder.

Left corner. Sit start on pockets, up through slopers to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Start matched on big hole and go up and left to top out near Cape Town

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017

Start on big hole and straight up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017

Match on big hole to go right and out. Bit crumbly.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017

Straight up. Bit crumbly. Easiest mantle of the lot

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017

Up through pockets and sloper edge with a reachy move to mantle out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017

Up the arete. No stars.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Back at The Big Straight Wall, the following routes are on the back of the Suncorp boulder

Start matched on undercling and up to large hole on the tip to follow ridge and mantle out left.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017

As for ING up to the hole on the tip, then hard mantle.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

Sit start on low nose undercling thing.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017

Stand start undercling straight up and mantle.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 31 Jan 2017

Pyramid shaped boulder hidden away between sectors ING Direct and BRAD Sector

Up right fold/groove. Sit start.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

Straight up the centre to top out slightly left of the tip (start with left hand at elbow height and right on arete).

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

Awkward on mini jugs. No stars

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jan 2017

Shaded sector with some great overhanging sloper action. About 20m south of Pyramid Scheme on a raised platform that stays shaded and dry (even in high swell), and can be accessed from the top directly.

Stand start at the flake below S of THIS. Move left, up flake and to jug on rooflet to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Start by pressing up into mini roof under IS, go up and follow seam under roof to the left to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct 2017

Sit start up corner, through awkward roof and awkward top out. No stars.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a punchy heel hook up and over.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Start matched on BRAD jug. Move up and left on slopers. Avoids the holds of BRAD.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Apr 2017

Sit start on jug above "B" and straight up above "RAD" through positive slopers to finish on huge white flake.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Traverse right from BRAD jug and go up at the fat flake. Avoids the holds of BRAD.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Jul 2017

Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jul 2017

Complex beta to move slowly through the line of 4 small slopers on the overhang to finish on a dynamic move. Bring a brush as the holds are always a little sandy. Sit start on the crescent crimp (shared with SHOER) and the knob to the right.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 6 Sep 2017

Sit start at BRAD MAM, go out to jug on BRAD BRAD and traverse back to the BRAD BRAD start hold then up BRAD.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct 2017

Sit start up the corner next to the slab block left of THIS IS DOGS. The slab also has some very easy warm ups on it.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Sitstart.

Nice exposed climb with somewhat poor landings about 5m left of Express Corner. Look for the large pocket on top to topout.

Walk about 20m west and around the corner from Express Corner to get to the following routes.

Sit start on pockets at edge of the platform. Up through jugs and top edge. No top out (sketchy landing).

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Sitstart on small sloper, up right to sloping hole, out to large plate and to top out mantle.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017

Start as for Don't Bank On It and heel hook your way left, then up and out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Sit start 2m right of the elevated bird bath on slopers and up through the blank section to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Sit start 1 m right of the bird bath.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Sit start as for Banked Up, 3m right of bird bath. Heel hook right, then up and out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

Sit start and up through the curved holds.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 9 Feb 2017

Sitstart 3m left of Banked Up. Follow flakes and top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 16 Feb 2017

On the east side of Cape Banks, just north of the shipwreck is a patch or reasonable rock among lots of choss. A little further north again is a tiny shell beach (flooded at high tide) that is great for a swim.

Start w jug under white patch. Heel hook start and up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Feb 2017

Mantle and go right and up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Feb 2017

Sit start heel hook to scoop and straight up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Feb 2017

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