First Breakaway Mostly Trad climbing45 routes in cliff
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Access is via a path which winds down through an obvious break in the cliff about 40m left (facing out into the gorge) of the upper falls lookout.
The climbs are described Right to Left (facing the cliff) and the first routes are left of where you descend.
Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.
If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.©
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