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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Dairy 61 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
Seasonality
Mostly Bouldering

Long/Lat: 146.823943, -36.128249

Description:

This area has more to do than the Citadel, especially with a rope. Problems can be powerful (Big-ass Bovine Style) or technical (Fresian). Where Bovines Fear To Tread is a must-do and has not yet been onsighted!

Approach:© (gordoste)

The second area you see up on your R when walking along the track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bovine Slab

The slab at the top of the gully on the R-hand side of the Dairy has 2 bolts.

FA: Paul Martin & Nick Danne, 2000

18 Sport 9m, 2
2 Rump Steak

FA: Luke Visser & Derek Visser, 2007

19 Unknown 8m
3 Face Climb

Standing start in the middle of the face with your hands on good edges. Crimp and smear your way straight up.

FA: Unknown, 2000

V1 Unknown
4 Will It Go Project

Start around to the R of 'Slab Happy', on a small vertical wall. Pull on with difficulty and then move straight up through steeper ground.

FA: You!, 2000

V0 Boulder
5 Orange Wall Direct

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V5 R Boulder
6 Unnamed

Sit-start on the L of the face and climb the jugs.

FA: Sarah Jacob, 2000

V0 Boulder

1.1. Bovine Boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Description:

The obvious boulder with a massive roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bovine Nation

Sit-start on a big sloper on the boulder under the main roof. Climb the arete to finish matched in a pocket.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V5 Boulder
2 Cowgirls and Indians

Uphill from Bovine Nation are several flakes. Sit-start, then climb these up and left to finish on a big triangular jug in an alcove.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V0 Boulder
3 Hey Cows!

To the left of Cowgirls and Indians are some more horizontal flakes. Sit-start, and climb these flakes to jugs, then finish as for Cowgirls and Indians.

FA: Joe Sealy, 2000

V0 Boulder
4 Udder Nonsense

The last arete uphill and to the L of Hey Cows. Sit-start on huge jugs, top out through roofy bit.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V0 Boulder
5 Where Bovines Fear To Tread

Climb up the crack under the main roof until you get into an alcove. Lean out to clip the first bolt and then traverse along the slopey rail past another bolt. At the end of the rail, crank around the corner to a crack and top out. Double chain lower-off (after topping out).

FA: Paul Martin & Derek Rempe, 2000

21 Mixed 10m, 2
6 Where Bovines Fear To Tread Piker's Variant

Climb the start of WBFTT and continue straight up.

15 Trad 8m
7 Traverse Of The Clods

Sit-start just left of Bovine Nation on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to join Cowgirls and Indians.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 The "Chasing Illusions" Project

Start standing on the sloping flat rock around right from Bovine Nation. Reach up to gain high diagonal juggy rail then climb up and around left to first RB. Tricky moves lead to steep leaning crack and 3 more RBs. Double ring lower off.

SportProject 8m, 4

1.2. Milkmaid Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering
Description:

Above and to the L of Bovine boulder is another large boulder with 3 routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cranking Until The Cows Come Home

The middle line to double rings. Can be difficult to reach the starting holds if you're short.

FA: Paul Martin & John Lewis, 1997

22 Sport 8m, 2
2 And The Cow Jumped Over The Moon

The start of Project C.

V6 Boulder
3 Project C

The right-hand line. Starting boulder problem has been done at V6, and the headwall with 2 bolts has been done at grade 21.

SportProject 10m
4 Daisy

The L-hand line.

FA: Paul Martin & John Lewis, 1997

22 Sport 8m, 3

1.3. Central Boulders 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering
Description:

These problems are on various boulders in the middle of the Dairy. They are described starting from the Milkmaid Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sirloin

Walk left from the Milkmaid Boulder, this is the first arete you pass. Very easy.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V0- Boulder
2 Drover

After passing Sirloin you will find a boulder with a distinctive horizontal rail. Traverse this from R to L and then top out.

FA: Kurt Saggers, 2000

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Rawhide

On the boulder above Drover. Sit-start using the boulder underneath for feet and do a few crimpy moves to top out.

V2 Boulder
4 Moo!

The R-hand arete of the Rawhide boulder.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V0 Boulder
5 Split Hooves

Walk to the R of Rawhide to find 2 boulders. The crack on the lower boulder.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V2 Boulder
6 Clover

Walk to the R of Rawhide to find 2 boulders. The crack on the upper boulder.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V2 Boulder

1.4. Stringybark Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering
Description:

Slightly above the milkmaid boulder and about 40m to the L is this wall with a large stringybark in front of it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stringybark Wall Low Traverse

This is an eliminate where you traverse the wall from R to L without using anything above the horizontal seam (you can use the seam itself). Jump off once you are standing on the rail L of the tree.

V1 Boulder 1m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Bullant City

Easy problem straight up the middle of the wall (just R of the tree).

FA: Kurt Saggers, 2000

V0- Boulder
3 Mad Cow Disease V4 Boulder
4 Stringybark Wall Loop

Do the low traverse and continue back around via the high traverse to where you started. Good training!

V2 Boulder 3m
5 Stringybark Wall High Traverse

Start standing on the rail just left of the tree. Crimp upwards and R to gain good holds. Traverse R and finish on the R-hand end of the wall.

V0 Boulder
6 Pasteurised

Start on the ramp L of the tree and climb up using whatever you can find.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V2 R Boulder

1.5. Below Stringybark Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering
Description:

There are a few problems below and L of the Stringybark Wall (above the slab which forms the L-hand side of the Lower Tier).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horseburgers

In the small gully just below Pasteurised, there is a boulder with a shallow seam running up its R-hand side. Start on the flake out L, then climb the seam.

FA: Rick Webb, 2000

V4 Boulder
2 The Rib

From the Stringybark boulder, go down the gully on the L to the next tier. This is the obvious arete with an atrocious landing.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V3 R Boulder
3 All And Sundry

Start on arete R of The Rib. Up to choss and then step L into chimney and up.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2000

V4 Boulder

1.6. Lower Tier 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering
Description:

Below the Stringybark wall is a slab. This area stretches from this slab, past another wall, and around past a couple of climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fresian

A little L of the center of the slab is a very shallow R-leaning seam. Start at the bottom of this seam and climb straight up.

FA: Stephen Gordon, 2009

V2 Boulder 5m
2 Slab Happy

Start on the R-hand side of the slab where there is a good foothold. Take the line of least resistance diagonally L and up.

V1 Boulder
3 Slab Happy Direct

Start as for Slab Happy but go straight up. The top-out is committing (and usually dirty).

V1 R Boulder
4 The Fanatic Search

Immediately left of "Rolling in The Hay" is a steep, somewhat blank, east-facing wall. Start standing at the left side of this little wall with your right hand on a sharp little 2-finger undercling and left hand on high gaston crimp. Stand up on good smear then follow awkward leaning holds up steep arete for a couple of moves until a radical deadpoint at about 2.5m. Reach up and left to slopey lip, then left again to big side-pull jug. Top-out, sit down and giggle!

FA: Ben Mace, 12 Mar 2012

V4 Boulder 3m
5 Andy

The hand-crack with extremely polished sides. Do not stem.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Rolling In The Hay

The L arete of the orange wall.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V0 R Boulder
7 Rolling In The Hay Direct Start

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

V5 Boulder
8 Sexy Mexican Milkmaids

Start in the chimney on the R of the orange wall. Traverse L across the orange wall and finish up Rolling In The Hay. Unfortunately this problem lost a starting hold in the chimney and is waiting to be re-climbed.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V6 Boulder
9 S.M.M.M Direct Finish

Start as for Sexy Mexican Milkmaids. Traverse left to big hold in centre of wall then finish as for Rolling in The Hay Direct Start.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V6 Boulder 4m
10 Red Flag

Start underneath a shallow seam which can be protected by RPs. Crimp up and join Bullfighter at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Paul Martin

20 Trad 9m
11 Bullfighter

Crimp up past two FHs and then have a rest before clipping a third FH and negotiating the overhang to a slabby topout. Double ring anchor on top. Excellent quality!

FA: Paul Martin

17 Sport 9m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Creamy

Start in the chimney around to the R of Bullfighter. Traverse R and then topout. A hold has broken but this probably doesn't change the grade.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V4 Boulder
13 Whipped Cream

Sit-start under the little overhang and pull up, move R to a jug and top out.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V1 Boulder

1.7. Frontside 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing
Description:

This area is the couple of pointy boulders and the slab below the Lower Tier, the lowest section of the Dairy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Song of Ice and Fire

Above, and to the left of "Lemmings" & "The Power of Faith" stands a tall sharp overhanging arete. Sit start on lowest good holds, then follow the arete up past a decent hold around 3/4 height. Don't pike here but slap up to slopey top, rock over and top out. Watch the landing as the higher you get, the worse it becomes.

FA: Ben Mace, 2011

V2 Boulder 4m
2 The Stockwhip

The finger-crack on the boulder below Bullfighter.

FA: Nick Danne, 2000

V3 Boulder
3 Lemmings

Below Stockwhip, start at the bulge with good holds and climb jugs to a scary top out.

FA: Nick Danne, 2000

V3 R Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 The Power Of Faith

Start matched on chest-height horizontal rail. Move right and up using good holds. Slap right hand around then up the arete to gain juggy top ridge. Follow this all the way to the top. Top out over highest point. All other blocks except the one you're on are out.

V3 Boulder
5 The Creaming

Great first lead. Short bolted slab 2m right of "The Power of Faith". Start standing on top of obvious flake, then up past 3FH to anchors.

FFA: Andrew Schmutter, 15 Jul 2010

FA: Ben Mace, 15 Jul 2010

14 Sport 9m, 3

1.8. Big Ass Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering
Description:

At the top of the Dairy is this boulder with a cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Problem 27

Good one for beginners. Sit start and climb up on jugs.

V0- Boulder
2 Problem 28

A technical problem starting on the flat edge and going straight up.

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Cameron's Climb

Standing start on the R-hand side of the face where it is very undercut. You can barely reach two small crimpers for the hands. Climb straight up.

FA: Stephen Gordon, 31 Jan 2010

V2 Boulder 3m
4 Big Ass Bovine Style

A tricky sit-start matched on the sloper. Move R to two decent holds and then crimp upwards before going a long way R to get the top of the boulder. Then you just need to mantle like a demon!

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V4 Boulder 3m

1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering
Description:

These climbs are found on various boulders below the Big-ass Boulder, and above the Bovine Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 How Now Brown Cow?

Below and to the L (looking downhill) from Bigass Bovine Style is a big face with a prominent arete. On the L-hand side of the face, climb the obvious line on good edges.

FA: Sarah Jacob, 2000

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Of Gods and Men

The obvious tall right- leaning arete. Technically easy for the grade, but a little comitting with a somewhat slopey landing. Stand start at arete proper with right hand on high pinch (smallish edge on arete can be used for right hand instead if preferred). Tricky move up and left to good sidepull, then follow the obvious vertical seam using edges along the way.

FA: Ben Mace, 26 May 2015

V3 Boulder 5m
3 Full Cream Milk

Starts around to the R of the arete sitting on a boulder. Start matched on a big diagonal edge. Crank up a crimp ladder to flat tops, then traverse R and step off.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V4 Boulder
4 Beefmeister

Sit-start on the R hand side of the flake. Traverse L until you can slap up to slopers on the top of the boulder. Traverse L again to jugs and top out.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

V4 Boulder
5 Problem 33

Sit start at edges, crimp your way to the top and step off.

V4 Boulder
6 Electric Something

Climb the crack to a heinous topout.

FA: Elliott, 2009

V3 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0- Sirloin Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Bullant City Boulder 1.4. Stringybark Wall
Problem 27 Boulder 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
14 The Creaming Sport 9m, 3 1.7. Frontside
15 Where Bovines Fear To Tread Piker's Variant Trad 8m 1.1. Bovine Boulder
V0 Unnamed Boulder 1. The Dairy
Will It Go Project Boulder 1. The Dairy
Cowgirls and Indians Boulder 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Hey Cows! Boulder 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Udder Nonsense Boulder 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Drover Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Moo! Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Stringybark Wall High Traverse Boulder 1.4. Stringybark Wall
How Now Brown Cow? Boulder 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
V0 R Rolling In The Hay Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
17 Bullfighter Sport 9m, 3 1.6. Lower Tier
18 Bovine Slab Sport 9m, 2 1. The Dairy
19 Rump Steak Unknown 8m 1. The Dairy
V1 Face Climb Unknown 1. The Dairy
Stringybark Wall Low Traverse Boulder 1m 1.4. Stringybark Wall
Slab Happy Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
Whipped Cream Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
V1 R Slab Happy Direct Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
20 Red Flag Trad 9m 1.6. Lower Tier
V2 Clover Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Rawhide Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Split Hooves Boulder 1.3. Central Boulders
Stringybark Wall Loop Boulder 3m 1.4. Stringybark Wall
Fresian Boulder 5m 1.6. Lower Tier
A Song of Ice and Fire Boulder 4m 1.7. Frontside
Cameron's Climb Boulder 3m 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
Problem 28 Boulder 3m 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
V2 R Pasteurised Boulder 1.4. Stringybark Wall
21 Where Bovines Fear To Tread Mixed 10m, 2 1.1. Bovine Boulder
22 Cranking Until The Cows Come Home Sport 8m, 2 1.2. Milkmaid Boulder
Daisy Sport 8m, 3 1.2. Milkmaid Boulder
V3 The Power Of Faith Boulder 1.7. Frontside
The Stockwhip Boulder 1.7. Frontside
Electric Something Boulder 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
Of Gods and Men Boulder 5m 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
V3 R The Rib Boulder 1.5. Below Stringybark Wall
Lemmings Boulder 1.7. Frontside
V4 Mad Cow Disease Boulder 1.4. Stringybark Wall
All And Sundry Boulder 1.5. Below Stringybark Wall
Horseburgers Boulder 1.5. Below Stringybark Wall
Andy Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
Creamy Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
The Fanatic Search Boulder 3m 1.6. Lower Tier
Big Ass Bovine Style Boulder 3m 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
Beefmeister Boulder 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
Full Cream Milk Boulder 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
Problem 33 Boulder 1.9. Below Big-ass Boulder
V5 Bovine Nation Boulder 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Traverse Of The Clods Boulder 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Rolling In The Hay Direct Start Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
V5 R Orange Wall Direct Boulder 1. The Dairy
V6 And The Cow Jumped Over The Moon Boulder 1.2. Milkmaid Boulder
S.M.M.M Direct Finish Boulder 4m 1.6. Lower Tier
Sexy Mexican Milkmaids Boulder 1.6. Lower Tier
? The "Chasing Illusions" Project SportProject 8m, 4 1.1. Bovine Boulder
Project C SportProject 10m 1.2. Milkmaid Boulder