Routes as trad in Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle

The second pitch; up the cracked hanging buttress, features some of the most beautiful, slick, sculpted granite you'll ever see. Add five grades if you're short. Pitch lengths are a rough estimate.

1. 25m (17) Up the front of the buttress to a ledge with a bollard.

2. 30m (21) Up the steep seam to an elegant crux to gain the headwall crack. At a ledge at about 20m trend right to a bollard belay. Rap to the ground with doubles or back to the last belay.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

Start as for Taipan at foot of buttress on left side of major Bonny Doon chimney. At 6m trend right up corner on side of buttress stepping left to ledge level with abseil bollard at 30m. Pitch 2 35 m ( crux) continue up well featured chimney exiting left at top then follow groove until able to step right to abseil bollard. Original route has 2 further pitches described.

1. 35m (18) Start at buttress left side of Bonny Doon Chimney. Reachy moves up thin cracks lead to easier climbing. Belay in the chimney near the right wall at abseil bollard.

2. 20 m (18) Step down from belay and then rightward rising traverse across face to DUBB (Firetail anchor). If under 167cm the start of the traverse may prove difficult.

3. 20 m (19) Steep crack and short chimney just left of anchor to belay on large vegetated ledge. Pitch

4. Finish up corner at back of ledge or, for the 3 star experience, finish up the direct variant to DBB. Overhanging bolted abseil 35 m and 37 m to ground.

Firetail

Follow undercling trending right to join Peppermint

Quality climbing on good rock to DBB

The pitches described differ from the original as the leaning tree has now fallen over and prevent a clean approach to the ledge at 15m after which the main line starts. On the back wall of the pinnacle recess.

1. 15m (15) Climb the greasy chimney then traverse left to the ledge below the splitter hand crack.

2. 40m (18) The hand crack to an overhang 20 m up. The original route belayed at a stance to the right, but continue up left of the overhang into corner above. Large bollard to left level with vegetation

3/4/94

Spectacular corner and crack climbing on the North East side of the Pinnacle with a wild finish! Up short corner to a big ledge, then up dark streaked thin corner on the right. Jam the steep flake left (#3 Camalot), then ignore the ledge and step left into the thin flake and arete to the summit! The rusty chain anchor could do with replacement.

Says as for F.A.P and climb Well Hung for 15m and then move left into the thin cracks and follow it up.

Start as for F.A.P and head straight up the crack above the start

The smooth and varying slightly steep offwidth on the front face of the pinnacle

The line just right of DD with a tricky but well protected exit from the steep crack. From. There trend right across Tendonitis to join Captain Pugwash and finish up that route to Belay on bollard as for Christmas Carol.

It is likely this route does not exist here, despite being replicated in 2 guide books. The route Tendonitis/ Tendernitis is next to Double diabolical. Nevertheless the line has been done for sure

Steep right trending cracks starting right of tendonitis below large sheoak. Belay on large bollard as for Christmas Carol ( 2m tat needed to abseil off).

1. 17m (14) Crack and groove just right of large block on ground about 3m down from Circumcision chimney. Up to ledge with large bollard.

2. 20m (16) Step left from ledge into bottomless chimney and up this until overhanging flake on left wall to exit left. Follow chicken head jugs up to belay at small stance

3. 10m (15) Continue up crack to summit then over to abseil chains over NE recess. 35m to ground.

Originally described as grovelling up into the gully, the route climbs best starting at the wall to the left of the Circumcision chimney just above a large sheoak

1. 12 15m right up ramp to belay at ledge with sheoak close to chockstone in chimney ( common start with Inheritance).

2. 17 20 m Chimney up back of pinnacle, then mostly climbing on the pinnacle side, though stemming to the opposite wall is welcome at the undercling flake. Step across onto the main wall at a large pod with DBB

3. 17 35m continue up hand crack above belay on main wall. Trend left then slightly back right to gain easy slab that leads 10 m to DBB Descent: abseil to top of pinnacle chains (30 m) the abseil to ground ( 35 m).

From the circumcision chimney surmount the first chockstone then step right into vegetated crack. Continue up and right to belay as for Raindance.

1. 15m 20 The slick curving flake to a roof at 7m, starting 2m right of circumcision chimney. Then up groove. Belay at base of fluting. There used to be fixed wires at this point, but they were absent in March 2022.

2. 10 m 19 up fluting to small belay stance

3. 30 m 16 continue up crack system. Descent: move left to abseil as for Golden Ticket

The direct start to Rain Shadow via twin thin cracks that joins that route at roof to finish at first belay.

3m R of. Rainshadow at fallen tree take flaky alcove to roof and exit left towards Rainshadow. Continue up right from the fixed gear to alcove and exit left climbing easier territory to possibly fixed wire at 50 m.

A link up. Start up Do Not Fear in the flaky orange depression at fallen tree, 3 m Right of rain shadow. Up depression to roof at 6 m then traverse left to exit towards the fixed belay at the top of the first pitch of Rainshadow. Continue rightward into huecoed alcove then exit right through roof above to find anchors of Park and Soak. The second roof isn’t harder than the first.