Routes in Frenchmans Cap for selected grade

Zarathustra takes a line up the prominent west-facing buttress above Cox's Castle. A good sunny afternoon climb but leave yourself plenty of time to get off.

Start about 2m R of lone boulder just behind Cox's Castle.

1. 30m 18. Second half of this pitch is run-out. Up the line for about 7m to overhang. Step L and head up to horizontal break just R of grass. R a couple of metres, then up on marginal protection to prominent diagonal line. Belay a little higher, about 5m below roofs.

2. 20m 21. Awaits a flash. Up R to thread runner on arête. Steeply up to RH end of roof. Step R onto arête and climb up a few more metres. Traverse spectacularly L on superb rock for about 10m to belay on small seat-sized ledge in horizontal break.

3. 25m. Up, L and then up again to base of ramp. Up ramp to L to arête of buttress. Climb north face to belay where rope drag dictates.

4. 35m. Wander up and L-ish to top of buttress.

Descent: It might be easier to rap off. Otherwise, continue scrambling and climbing up, up, up to top of buttress, and sidle round mountain to pick up the main track to the North Col.

Spaced protection. Up wall a few metres R of previous route, climbing overhang at weakness towards its L end. Finish up line directly above

1. 90m - Up to foot of corner

2. 25m (16) - Up corner to ledge on left

3. 40m (20) - Go left for 8m then up shallow corner to small stance and belay

4. 40m (20) - Up flake to ramp and follow this to foot of corner

5. 40m (19) - Up corner to roof then up off-width to bulge. Step right onto face and up to sloping ledge

6. 40m (22) - Around rofof then off-width crack to bulge. Trend right up to shallow corner on arete and then 5m right to belay

7. 21m (21) - Up corner for 5m then step left for 8m into next corner and up to ledge and piton belay

8. 40m (18) - Up short slab to top then up wall to ledge, go right around the roof and then left into shallow corner

9. 30m (18) - Through roof and corner to ledge, go right for 5m then up to topout

Climbs the prominent roof crack, worth climbing for the technical movement and 130m exposure. Some loose rock and seep detract from the overall quality. Roof is visible on left side of arete above P3/4. From TLF P4 following the 6m rightwards traverse, climb direct up an easy corner gained before rounding the nose. Trend left to hanging belay just below roof. A bomber #3 protects the bouldery crux at the lip. Belay above roof and continue up well protected off-width for 20m.