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South-West Wall

  • Grade context: AU
3
AU
13

Access issues inherited from Frenchmans Cap Area

It's a 25km hike from the Lyell Highway.

Descent notes

Walk down the summit track to Tahune Hut

Ethic inherited from Frenchmans Cap

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start up LH side of first smooth slab encountered when moving around SW base of the Cap from the West Col. (1) - Climb halfway up slab with little pro (2) - Climb second half of slab with equally bad pro to start of vertical wall (3) - Traverse left and up short vertical crack to belay stance at small flake (4) - Climb half of RH nose of gully to belay stance (5) - Climb second half of RH nose of gully (delicately) and belay stance just under overhanging chockstone (6) - (Crux) Mount overhanging chockstone and up corner to top out

FA: M Douglas & J Fairhall, 1962

An alternate finish for Western Slab Route. First two pitches as for Western Slab Route. Then up vertical wall, up right to follow sloping terrace then straight up the gully to the top.

FA: I Brown, 1974

The obvious chimney on the Southwest Face.

FA: B Allen & M March, 1972

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