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The Southeast face of Clytemnestra

Access issues inherited from Frenchmans Cap

Located in Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.


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Grade Route
1 17
3 15
5 18
6 14
10 11
11 14
12 8
  1. 45m 17. Start as for Sydney Route Direct Start but go up L. 2. 35m. As for SR. Scramble over boulders to R, then ramp behind block. 3. 25m 15. Up out of chimney, then vegetated ramp to top. Go up and trend slightly R. Belay on ledge which slopes up R at top. 4. 35m 18. Up from belay to runner - make it a good one, it may be your last. Traverse up R to crack, then up R of detached pillar and belay behind this. (Some old gear may be in evidence here.) 5. 30m 14. Directly across L on good traverse. Up to chimney. Belay above blocks perched in cracks. 6-9. As for SR except start pitch six a little higher. 10. 50m 11. Angle up L of good holds into chimney, then up to "landing pad". 11. 30m 14. Chimney, heading R into other chimneys. Continue to mega-stance. 12. 50m 8. Step out on L wall. After a few moves stand up and run across pasture. Take L gully to top. 13. Wander up gully to summit.

FFA: Dayle Gilliatt & Phil Dolan, 1989


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