- Height: 30m
- Ascents: 104
Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.
A complete classic, this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.
- Ethic: inherited from Frog Buttress
Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.
Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.
Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.
Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!
Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin
First Ascent: Barry Overs & Rick White, 1971
Located in West of the access track approx:
Route Grade Citations
|20||Community registered grade|
|19||Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress|
|19 **||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 78%
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