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Again, access is a problem here due to access through Applegrove being denied. To get there now you have to walk in along the gorge rim to the descent gully on the right (Grid. ref. 875-108).



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Start: About three-quaters of the way to the top on the left-hand side of the Grey wall (in the descent gully) under orange outcrops, there is, on the right, a fine line which starts in a tree alcove.

Layback start and easily to ledge. Up short off-width to enjoyable roof. Over roof to top.

You'll even meet spike on the second pitch, but don't expect to laugh!

Start: At the left-hand end of the main cliff, scramble up to large ledge at base of two fine corner crack systems. The Goon Show' takes the right line.

  1. 30m Avoid orange rock by traversing right to base of offwidth, chimney cracks. Up twin cracks on right to ledge with large tree.

  2. 15m Follow fine layback flake into comer: follow crack on right through bulge (crux) to base of fine corner. Spike is perched rather humorously on the right! Up corner, with care, onto ledge underneath huge roof.

  3. 20m Easily up huge ramp to top (as for 'Menagerie').

FA: Brian Birchall & John Lattanzio (alt leads), 1981

Start: As for 'The Goon Show', on the left side of the main wall.

  1. 30m As for pitch 1. of 'The Goon Show'. Avoid orange rock by traversing right to base of offwidth, chimney cracks. Up twin cracks on right to ledge with large tree.

  2. 30m Up curving layback, onto block and belay.

Abseil off.

FA: L.Shepard, M. Gallagher & E. Leis, 1982

Start: At base of obvious diagonal ramp (right to left across face ); right of 'The Goon Show'.

Follow ramp to top.

FA: B. Killip & R.Stazewski, 1975

Start: At the bottom of the main wall, down and right to the right of 'The Goon Show'. A left hand corner crack. Scramble up to small trees and ledge to start.

Up corner to ledge, trend left, over a bulge then traverse left to fig tree.

Down climb to the ground.

FA: Al Stephens, G. Croft & T. Ball, 1982

Mixed and varied climbing up the cenre of the main face.

Start: From the descent gully, go right to the bottom of the main wall. The clean layaway crack.

  1. 20m Up crack to join large crack on right, continue up to tree belay.

  2. 10m Walk right to tree and up thin crack below "cats tongue block" to ledge on right.

  3. 20m Up vegetated chimney/gully, right of belay, and continue through fig tree to belay.

  4. 25m Traverse left along treed ledge to belay below two converging cracks with a large block wedged at the top.

  5. 15m Up right hand crack, under block to belay atop block.

  6. 25m (crux). Up to base of off-width, then up thin left crack up to ledge and ramp to belay under small roof/cave.

  7. 10m Up through roof and follow crack left to large ledge and tree belay.

  8. 50m - Leftwards up ramp, over blocks and continue to start of rock ramp then right to good ledge.

  9. 30m Move right and around corner to intermittent crack system. Follow this to obvious ledge.

  10. 10m Follow ledge left and up dirty slab to base of off-width immediately left of huge orange roof, then left to tree belay.

  11. 15m Up small corner and crack trending left to diagonal crack and under-cling and roof to top.

An exposed climb (and enjoyable if you like sparse protection), which ranks with 'Action' ( Dangars Falls).

Start: Roughly in the middle of the wall, there is a leaning pillar with a left hand crack.Further to the right of the pillar is a ramp leading to a tree. Start here.

  1. 25m From tree, easily at first, then more difficult, to a good belay in obvious crack on left hand side of a small flake.

  2. 30m Move left and up, past thin crack (which affords some protection ) to belay.

  3. 30m Left again and up thin, slightly vegetated crack to belay on grassy ledge under small roof.

  4. 30m Move left from ledge (placing protection high to protect traverse) to crack. Carefully up crack to belay below crack lines above.

  5. 35m Up initial crack and right to thin crack splitting small roof. Step out left under roof and up to small trees. Continue up to uncomfortable belay under tiny cracked corner.

  6. 30m Diagonally left under roof (heading towards huge roof at extreme left), around smaller roof and up to top.


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